Suspension Question
2003 Dodge Dakota 4x4 3.9L
Hello all,
New to the forum, so if this has been asked before i haven't come across the answer. Was doing brake lines (stainless preformed/prebent) on the dakota today in preparation to make it the new daily driver. While doing so, we popped the right front hose. During inspection noticed that the right front shock wasn't where it should be. The bolt had sheared itself (I'm guessing?) at the inside of the shock where it bolts into the lower control arm. Not a huge deal since it is not yet the daily driver, but would like to attack it as quickly/cheaply/properly as possible.
Searching for the control arm I cannot seem to find one that looks similar to the one that's on the vehicle now... was there a change in the way they were made for a design flaw?
Any help/insight is appreciated, will upload my potato picture here as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks, Kyle
Hello all,
New to the forum, so if this has been asked before i haven't come across the answer. Was doing brake lines (stainless preformed/prebent) on the dakota today in preparation to make it the new daily driver. While doing so, we popped the right front hose. During inspection noticed that the right front shock wasn't where it should be. The bolt had sheared itself (I'm guessing?) at the inside of the shock where it bolts into the lower control arm. Not a huge deal since it is not yet the daily driver, but would like to attack it as quickly/cheaply/properly as possible.
Searching for the control arm I cannot seem to find one that looks similar to the one that's on the vehicle now... was there a change in the way they were made for a design flaw?
Any help/insight is appreciated, will upload my potato picture here as soon as I figure out how.
Thanks, Kyle
Last edited by Bock; Feb 23, 2020 at 10:05 PM. Reason: Forgot the specs on vehicle
I had that happen last year, walking up to my truck from a distance saw the shock hanging there.
I started drilling with a small titanium bit , then a bit larger and finished with a 3/8". slid a grade 8 bolt in there.
I started drilling with a small titanium bit , then a bit larger and finished with a 3/8". slid a grade 8 bolt in there.
Turns out I’m an idiot and was looking at the control arm upside down online... isn’t that portion threaded? Cause there’s no nut on the backside.
Tempted to replace the shocks up front because that bushing is non-existent, and the bushings at the top are squashed, dry rotted messes. Also contemplating replacing the whole front end, but at the same time not sure it’s worth it. Uncle mentioned something about it being a torsion bar setup? And worst case scenario, I don’t know where I’d be able to find backups. Truck is whooped from being an Ohio truck. Needs all sorts of mount help and such...
Tempted to replace the shocks up front because that bushing is non-existent, and the bushings at the top are squashed, dry rotted messes. Also contemplating replacing the whole front end, but at the same time not sure it’s worth it. Uncle mentioned something about it being a torsion bar setup? And worst case scenario, I don’t know where I’d be able to find backups. Truck is whooped from being an Ohio truck. Needs all sorts of mount help and such...
yep, WAS threaded, after it's drilled out and a little reaming with the bit you can slide a bolt through there. I think it was 3 1/2" and I used a nut on the backside.
Use some cutting oil and go slow, fairly easy...
Use some cutting oil and go slow, fairly easy...
Going to be 100% honest, took the truck over to another uncles house, and he looked at me and asked me why I put so much in this truck already. Said cut the losses and take it to the local mud hole, have some fun and if it breaks it breaks.
In the short time it was at the uncles we confirmed the broken shock bolt, diagnosed a steering shaft issue, rear end tension issue, transfer case noise, have a caliper that seems to be locking up, and the truck seems to lose weight every time you touch it.
so, thank you for your assistance, but I’m thinking I’m going to kinda stop what I’m doing. I’ve already put a fair amount of money into this and not sure how much more I can/should do...
In the short time it was at the uncles we confirmed the broken shock bolt, diagnosed a steering shaft issue, rear end tension issue, transfer case noise, have a caliper that seems to be locking up, and the truck seems to lose weight every time you touch it.
so, thank you for your assistance, but I’m thinking I’m going to kinda stop what I’m doing. I’ve already put a fair amount of money into this and not sure how much more I can/should do...
Just remember that one of the times it is worth it to spend $2,000 to get a $2,000 daily driver is when the true worth of having new/repaired (and sometimes upgraded) is more than what the "market" will pay for the completed machine.
Confidence in the rebuilt (ish) machine has merit when it is based on mechanical reality. Must be balanced against the breakdown/costs risk of whatever other stuff that was NOT rebuilt/replaced/upgraded.
When those conditions are satisfied, then the personal gratification of knowing the machine and its parts--a non-monetary value--can then be "worth it". So can sentimental value, but it sounds like that break from rationality is not at play with this particular truck.
Your call with be right for you.
Confidence in the rebuilt (ish) machine has merit when it is based on mechanical reality. Must be balanced against the breakdown/costs risk of whatever other stuff that was NOT rebuilt/replaced/upgraded.
When those conditions are satisfied, then the personal gratification of knowing the machine and its parts--a non-monetary value--can then be "worth it". So can sentimental value, but it sounds like that break from rationality is not at play with this particular truck.
Your call with be right for you.







