Blower Switch Replacement "Solved"
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Joined: Dec 2005
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Blower Switch Replacement "Solved"
///solved///
In case anyone stumbles upon this post with a similar problem here's what I found.
I think the resistor pack "controls fan speeds" was just part of the problem with my heating and cooling system. The blower motor may have been drawing more current than it should. The first symptom was that the resistor pack died at 28000 miles leaving me with only high speed on the fan. I replaced it and everything was fine for about a week. I blew the 40 amp fuse next to the battery 2 times before losing the blower motor itself. I replaced the blower motor and everything seemed fine. One week later the 40 amp fuse blew again. I should have replaced the resistor pack along with the new blower because I think it had already been compromised by the old blower.
I suspected the switch because the two other compents were new. I'm glad I didn't get into the dash because there is nothing wrong with the switch. Dodge has replaced the type of resistor pack the Dakota uses with an older but more reliable design. The packs that failed looked like the size of a credit card. Very thin and wimpy looking. The newer ones are fatter and have a visible resistor soldered on the end.
Price ranged between $8 and $15 on the resistor pack and it's easy to replace being under the glove box right next to the blower.
///solved///
I need to take a look at the heater/blower switch assembly in my 2001 Dakota. I can't easily tell how much I need to remove to get the assembly out. My Intrepid was easier, all I had to do was pop out a small plastic cover to expose the two small hex screws. The only screws I can find in this dakota are the two above the speedometer.
Can anyone give me an idea about how much of the dash has to be removed? I don't want any more hypothermia than necesary.
History
First the blower resistor died last summer, I replaced it and all was fine for a couple months.
Then I blew the 40 amp fuse next to the battery twice before frying the blower itself. I replaced the blower and it worked for about a week before blowing the 40 amp fuses 2 more times.
Now it seems as though the blower and resistor were just the victims of a short. Would I be correct to suspect the switch assembly as the culprit? Is there anything else in that circuit that I can check?
In case anyone stumbles upon this post with a similar problem here's what I found.
I think the resistor pack "controls fan speeds" was just part of the problem with my heating and cooling system. The blower motor may have been drawing more current than it should. The first symptom was that the resistor pack died at 28000 miles leaving me with only high speed on the fan. I replaced it and everything was fine for about a week. I blew the 40 amp fuse next to the battery 2 times before losing the blower motor itself. I replaced the blower motor and everything seemed fine. One week later the 40 amp fuse blew again. I should have replaced the resistor pack along with the new blower because I think it had already been compromised by the old blower.
I suspected the switch because the two other compents were new. I'm glad I didn't get into the dash because there is nothing wrong with the switch. Dodge has replaced the type of resistor pack the Dakota uses with an older but more reliable design. The packs that failed looked like the size of a credit card. Very thin and wimpy looking. The newer ones are fatter and have a visible resistor soldered on the end.
Price ranged between $8 and $15 on the resistor pack and it's easy to replace being under the glove box right next to the blower.
///solved///
I need to take a look at the heater/blower switch assembly in my 2001 Dakota. I can't easily tell how much I need to remove to get the assembly out. My Intrepid was easier, all I had to do was pop out a small plastic cover to expose the two small hex screws. The only screws I can find in this dakota are the two above the speedometer.
Can anyone give me an idea about how much of the dash has to be removed? I don't want any more hypothermia than necesary.
History
First the blower resistor died last summer, I replaced it and all was fine for a couple months.
Then I blew the 40 amp fuse next to the battery twice before frying the blower itself. I replaced the blower and it worked for about a week before blowing the 40 amp fuses 2 more times.
Now it seems as though the blower and resistor were just the victims of a short. Would I be correct to suspect the switch assembly as the culprit? Is there anything else in that circuit that I can check?
