Got a head scratcher, hope someone can shed some light.
'98 2wd Dak, auto, 5.2, rear brakes totally rebuilt, all new parts, including hardware and wheel cyl.
The drivers shoe is slow to retract, slower than the pass. The rear drum is actually hotter according to my IR temp gun, by nearly 40 some degrees.
I've pulled the drum, pressed on the brake a little bit and let it go and actually see a delay before the shoe begins to retract. The passenger side is immediate to retract.
The shop that did the work double checked everything specs and all, everything was fine. I had another shop check it out as well, same thing everything looks good.
The only thing the second shop said could maybe possibly be doing it, the master cylinder might need replacing in time. Could this do it? Or should I look at other things as well?

 

Anything with the master cylinder or the rear flex line should be affecting both in the same manner, as the rear brakes are a single circuit off the master and split at the block at the rear differential. New or rebuild wheel cylinders? If rebuilt, they may not have been rebuilt correctly. Verify the springs were replaced with new, as well as the retaining pins. Second possibility, crap in the hard line causing the driver side to hold pressure. A blow-out with air followed by a re-bleed would solve this. Another possibility, parking brake is hanging up. Pull both drums and compare all the parts to make sure nothing was put in incorrectly, they should be a mirror image (exactly alike, except flipped) of each other. Also need to make sure that high temp brake grease was applied to the backing plate pads that the shoes slide on. No grease on these pads, and the shoes can drag. Been a while since I messed with rear drums, but that's all I can remember for now.

 

The length variance on the metal lines attached to the rear axle could amplify a slow return to the master cylinder. I think I would look at the wheel cylinders first though. Do you have new or rebuilt wheel cylinders? Myself, I would hone the wheel cylinders just in case one wasn't rebuilt clean enough.

 

It was all new parts, cylinders and all the hardware.
I'll try blowing out the line. It's worth a shot, and free to do.

 

Something I've only seen a couple of times is a piston cup put together sloppily. They should move smooth but if the piston head has the rubber in a bind, it will be hard for the return spring to pull it back. You have checked the return spring for proper assembly haven't you? Pull the wheels and drums off both sides. The springs should be mirror images of each other.

 

Check that star adjuster. Spin the drum side to side and adjust till it's just brushing the pads. One side might be too tight.