Update... that CT sensor I mentioned that was opening up during warmup...it is biting me in the butt now that the Dak is going to work daily... almost everyday on the way out, if I get stuck at the 1st major light, timing is just right for it to start running rough. I have to drop it in neutral and rev it a bit for the light to switch, once thats done, zero issues after that.

 

New O2 sensor, MAP, CT, Crank & Cam sensors ordered... Did a little research on the Standard Products brand and am going to give them a shot. When I pull the cam & crank sensors I plan to do the magnet test with the razor blade and compare to the Standard products. If I see it is weak compared to the ones I pull, they will not go in and will get OEM.

 

Update... almost 2000 miles since RP oil change... had no visible snot in the oil fill tube last time I checked... approx 1200~1300 miles back. Temps turned cold for the last couple of weeks and had a look yesterday, good amount of snot in there now. So, did some research on fixes and someone posted up that they insulated the fill tube and reported back that it was 98% better. It was not indicated what temps were seen so no idea if that fix really worked or not. So, I'll go ahead and give it a shot.

Going to go grab this now and wrap it up.

https://www.armacell.us/products/arm...nsulationtape/

Spec sheet says its good up to 180*f temps, I doubt the fill tube would even come close but will be keeping an eye on it to see how it performs.

Another possibly related cause could be the removal of the air deflector on the front of the cooling stack. nearly a direct flow past the rad on that side and into the engine compartment. Will put that back on eventually after evaluating the tape fix attempt.

 

EVAP codes... found my leak. When I was fixing all of the vacuum leaks the motor had, there was one T that I could not find a hose for. Since it was a service port I assumed it was supposed to be open and let it be. Well this morning I came across the vacuum diag below and now I see where it is supposed to go. So I have a loose hose under there somewhere that I will have to find and re-connect.




edit... fixed.

 

Update... so after the fix and rolling off another 170ish miles, seems like there is an MPG bump. One note on the drive in... the hill that I was able to maintain speed on with the JTCM mod and sitting at 1500 rpms, I can now gain speed on w/o a downshift. That was unexpected. HPT updated interface module has arrived so now I have the option to start tuning it. "come on 20!" (20mpg is the goal, sitting repeatedly at 16.5~16.6 after all the sensor swaps).

CE light still came on and the assumption is for a small evap leak. Will investigate tonite/tomorrow.

 

"Bring out your dead... " came across this thread today and found I never updated it with the root cause & solution.

Found this out at the pump, suspected a leak at the top of the fuel tank thinking it was the pump seal to the tank. Was not going to drop the tank to find out so I let it go... until fuel dumped out onto the concrete... problem found.

Replaced the fuel pump & problem solved, no more evap code.