New to me QC 4wd
#11
10-02-2021, 09:06 AM
Wish my truck were in that good of shape.
#12
10-02-2021, 04:35 PM
#13
10-13-2021, 08:27 AM
I've dealt with small evap leak. Usually the under hood hoses and those underneath by the gas tank are cracked and leaking by now. Squeeze every inch of them and look for cracks, especially near the ends. If you find any, cut off and reattach Some hoses run under the battery tray too. I greatly reduced the frequency of the codes by eliminating the leaks, but they didn't completely disappear till I replaced the leak detection pump, which is underneath the truck, roughly below the driver's seat. The pumps are shared among many dodge vehicles.... I got mine from an 09' junkyard PT cruiser.
The 4.7L will last you a very long time with basic maintenance. By this I mean simply keeping the oil and coolant topped up. Try to never overheat it. I wouldn't run anything but full synthetic (I use 0W20). I'm still on the original chains at 325K. Original motor and tranny too (no rebuilds). Heck, even the starter is original. Most work I've ever done was replacing lifters at 300K when one finally failed and kicked out a rocker. She drives better and better as the years go by. I've driven much newer trucks that are not even close to how this one feels.
The 4.7L will last you a very long time with basic maintenance. By this I mean simply keeping the oil and coolant topped up. Try to never overheat it. I wouldn't run anything but full synthetic (I use 0W20). I'm still on the original chains at 325K. Original motor and tranny too (no rebuilds). Heck, even the starter is original. Most work I've ever done was replacing lifters at 300K when one finally failed and kicked out a rocker. She drives better and better as the years go by. I've driven much newer trucks that are not even close to how this one feels.
I had a small leak code for a bit, thought I had it fixed, let the little woman use the truck while I worked on her jeep. She put ~40-50 miles on it over 2 days and when it came back, no codes. 3 days later with me doing shorter trips, no codes. Then fixing a temporary hose mend with a perm solution, the code came back and a large leak came back. Both continue to repeat. I found the main vacuum line going to the intake in the firewall passenger side area has a very loose fitting, have not fixed it yet so I dont know if that is the cause. It is definitely shot on the end, the temporary fix is to e-tape it and clamp it with a spring clamp. I am thinking of following your foot steps and just order up all the hoses under there and swap them all out and be done with it... until I'm not.
#14
10-13-2021, 04:33 PM
The LDP, on the '00-02 it appears that the LDP is under the battery, do you know if they moved it starting in '03?
I had a small leak code for a bit, thought I had it fixed, let the little woman use the truck while I worked on her jeep. She put ~40-50 miles on it over 2 days and when it came back, no codes. 3 days later with me doing shorter trips, no codes. Then fixing a temporary hose mend with a perm solution, the code came back and a large leak came back. Both continue to repeat. I found the main vacuum line going to the intake in the firewall passenger side area has a very loose fitting, have not fixed it yet so I dont know if that is the cause. It is definitely shot on the end, the temporary fix is to e-tape it and clamp it with a spring clamp. I am thinking of following your foot steps and just order up all the hoses under there and swap them all out and be done with it... until I'm not.
I had a small leak code for a bit, thought I had it fixed, let the little woman use the truck while I worked on her jeep. She put ~40-50 miles on it over 2 days and when it came back, no codes. 3 days later with me doing shorter trips, no codes. Then fixing a temporary hose mend with a perm solution, the code came back and a large leak came back. Both continue to repeat. I found the main vacuum line going to the intake in the firewall passenger side area has a very loose fitting, have not fixed it yet so I dont know if that is the cause. It is definitely shot on the end, the temporary fix is to e-tape it and clamp it with a spring clamp. I am thinking of following your foot steps and just order up all the hoses under there and swap them all out and be done with it... until I'm not.
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steve05ram360 (10-13-2021)
#15
10-17-2021, 11:56 AM
transfer case fluid swap done... sigh... fluid came out awful dark...
power steering flush ongoing. fluid is also dark. not breaking the system open, just vacuming out the resi and fill.
still on the plate, trans service, brake flush and front diff service. both diffs will get a couple of fluid swaps before going to royal purple for the final fill
power steering flush ongoing. fluid is also dark. not breaking the system open, just vacuming out the resi and fill.
still on the plate, trans service, brake flush and front diff service. both diffs will get a couple of fluid swaps before going to royal purple for the final fill
#16
10-18-2021, 08:16 AM
#17
10-24-2021, 11:24 AM
Update... so I think the next thing on the list is the wheel bearings, one is bad and I'm sure the other is not far behind.
What I think is left:
Then
Then baseline for mpg numbers.
On the Cam & Crank sensors, what are the preferred sensors?
I had issues with NTK's on the Cummins motor, magnet was not strong enough to give a solid signal back to the ECU. Took a video (tried to find it to link here but uh...) to show the differences between the NTK magnet strength and the cummins part strength and it was clear when you see it.
What I think is left:
- Wheel bearings
- Front diff service -> swap to royal purple 75w-90 (my preference
- Rear diff service -> swap to RP
- Finish power steering flush
- Fix EVAP code problem
- Smoke test the engine for vacuum leaks
Then
- Plug swap
- Cam & Crank sensor swaps
- CT sensor swap (eventually, it is only showing a problem on warmup around 150*f, no glitches at operating temp)
- o2 Sensor swap
Then baseline for mpg numbers.
On the Cam & Crank sensors, what are the preferred sensors?
I had issues with NTK's on the Cummins motor, magnet was not strong enough to give a solid signal back to the ECU. Took a video (tried to find it to link here but uh...) to show the differences between the NTK magnet strength and the cummins part strength and it was clear when you see it.
Last edited by steve05ram360; 10-24-2021 at 11:30 AM.
#18
10-24-2021, 11:27 AM
#19
10-24-2021, 11:34 AM
They are going to get swapped anyway, "working or not". What happens to them is as they age the field strength of the magnet deteriorates and the actual rise time of the sensor starts shifting causing timing to slip. Swapping in new sensors brings them back in alignment. The main reason is 2 fold, 1 keep it crisp and 2 prep for diving into tuning it with HP tuners. When I swapped them out on the ram i had to go back and re-tune the timing on it, it was out pretty good and it rattled. Granted those sensors had 440k on them but still... assuming they are original, they are done from my perspective being nearly 20 years old.
edit: forgot to ask, are they a PITA to change? On the ram, the crank was 5 minutes, cam nearly 2 hours... mainly because it was difficult to get the screw back in with the location of the stupid thing.
#20
10-24-2021, 11:47 AM