And how do you reset the rotor? These dist don't have gears on them but I'm guessing the oil pump does because when i try to stick a screwdriver down in there to turn oil pump to line up with dist it doesn't budge

 

#1 on the distributor cap. If you pull the rotor, rod and all, out you can then put it back in splined differently

 

the bigger question is why is it out of sync? was it ever pulled before you got it? (I think you said it was pulled...) If so then makes 100% sense as to why it wont run as expected.

 

If it fired at all it might just be one tooth off. You could try moving it 1 tooth in either direction and checking to see if it changes.

 

Yes it was pulled when i got it and these dist don't have teeth the oil pump i guess drives it. I redid the timing today and i think it's pretty damn close it starts but i have to just barely keep my foot on gas to keep it running as it won't idle or rev up very high so i think I'm getting there. When i set the timing this morning i noted where the rotor was facing and turned the dist so that number 1cyl on dist cap was dead on the rotor, i know in vac dist you had to set it just a lil btdc but seeing as the pcm controls timing do i still need to go a Lil before top dead center?

 

Actually neither the oil pump nor distributor have the gear.

The gear floats on a flanged bushing next to the cam. It has a 5/16 hex that engages the oil pump, and a straight blade that engages the distributor.

The PCM allows for 20* of total variance between the cam sensor and crank sensor - straight up plus/minus 10 degrees. You need a DRB3 or Snap-on Modus to read "Cam Sync". That's the modern word for distributor timing.

The fuel injectors are fired based on when the cam sensor is triggered. The spark timing is unaffected by distributor position, as the PCM fires the coil using the crank sensor.

Get the engine set at #1 TDC, then get the rotor lined up with the "#1 Cyl" engraved on the cam sensor (which ironically is located in the distributor base). On a V8, this also points to the frontmost intake manifold bolt just inside of the #1 cylinder. On a V6, you're going to be just a shave left of that, so probably the front right bolt of the AC compressor and the metal heater hose spigot off the water pump.

And yes, it is a complete and thorough b#tch. Don't feel bad about being frustrated. It took me 2 days to get mine set close to right on a damn engine stand and even then it was at +8 or something like that once i got it in the truck.

 

Thank you, was wondering how the dist worked as far as how it is driven, i have got everything pretty close have a broken brake line in fixing now and as soon as it is fixed I'm going to try and drive it up to the dealership to get it synced, i have had many Ford trucks and cars and have worked out at the phosphate mines for years working on Chevrolets but this is the first Dodge i have ever turned a wrench on and if i wasn't bald already i probably would've pulled out all my hair with this truck lol but it was a great accomplishment getting the truck to actually start seeing as how it sat for many years and had quite a few "mechanics" work on this truck trying to get it to run. Took me 2 weeks and less than $300 and i hope it turns out to be a decent little truck.