Notes: 2002 DAKOTA 4.7 45-RFE Auto Transmission - Filters & fluid change

I tow a trailer with my Dakota so, per the owner's manual, the trans fluid must be changed every 30K miles. Calling around, I got estimates for a 100% fluid change and filters between $450 and $650. In one case, the shop refused to drain and refill with fluid only - they required additives and would not do the job without them. My total cost with Mopar fluid and Wix filters was $225. The first time through took me 6 hours - I expect to take 2-3 hours the next time.

I decided to share my notes because it's hard to find a good auto shop. This job isn't that hard, so if you want to do your own competent work and save some money, here you go! Just remember that I am not a pro, I don't guarantee this info, and if you choose to follow it do so at your own risk.

WARNING: I purchased a no-name filter kit online. After completing the entire project, the trans would not go into gear. When I removed the pan again, I found the flat-filter hanging down. The flat-filter pipe is supposed to clip firmly into the seal to hold it in place. The problem was the no-name seal was made entirely of a rubber-like material and could be installed/removed with a finger. It was so loose the flat-filter pipe slipped out of the seal and dropped down into the pan. In that position, there was no connection to the transmission pump so it could not draw fluid.

I bought a name brand filter kit (Wix) and found the rubber seal was bonded to a metal ring like the original factory seal. No way it could be removed or installed with just a finger. The quality seal must be removed with tools and the new seal driven into place - I removed the original seal with a Craftsman cotter pin tool and installed the new seal with a socket installed backwards on a socket extension and a lead hammer to drive the seal into the trans seal bore. When installing the flat-filter, substantial force was needed to POP it in and it did not drop back down.

Lesson learned: For a time consuming and messy job like this, buy NAME BRAND quality parts. It's not worth saving a few dollars then having to re-do the job. In my case I did the whole job twice. Having lost all confidence in their quality, I replaced all the online parts with the Wix brand parts. It was just not worth chancing the possibility of damaging the trans or having to do it a THIRD time.



Steps:

1. Remove and drain the pan. Remove the pan bolts but leave two on either side. Place a catch bin below the lowest corner of the pan. Loosen the final two bolts by hand with a ratchet but don't remove them. My pan was factory sealed with silicone with no gasket. It may be necessary to use a putty knife to unseal the pan; when this happens it is likely to drop suddenly and the two remaining bolts will catch the pan, preventing a big spill. As the flow of trans fluid subsides, support the pan by hand and remove the remaining two bolts. Tip the pan so the fluid pours out in an orderly fashion. Once empty, place the pan on a tray or towel. I suggest letting the trans drip into a tray for at least an hour before sliding under the vehicle to continue the project.

2. Remove the flat-filter first; it has a single bolt, then pulls down. Then remove the spin-on filter.

3. If you replace the seal, please buy NAME BRAND quality parts. Do not use no-name online parts (see the note above). If the o-ring does not have a bonded metal ring, stop the job and buy a kit with the bonded metal ring.

4. I chose to tighten the valve body bolts. Many were loose and only a few were tight. Use your best judgment - if you don't have a quality torque wrench, I suggest skipping this step. Check the factory service manual for the torque spec.

5. Install the spin-on filter first (looks like a small engine oil filter). In my case I needed to screw in a threaded plastic pipe into the spin-on filter (not into the trans) before screwing the filter into the trans. Double check the seal - it clips into the top of the spin-on filter but does not lock into place. Use no tools, hand tighten only.

6. Install the flat-filter second. It should take some effort and you should feel the pipe click into the seal. Re-install the bolt.

7. Clean the pan sealing edges. I used a wire wheel on a grinder, cleaned it thoroughly with acetone, and after it was nice and shiny, applied RTV silicone sealant followed by the gasket included with the kit.

8. Clean the transmission sealing surface with acetone. I recommend NOT using sealant between the gasket and the transmission (you'll thank me the 2nd time you do this job).

9. Install the pan and torque the bolts. The manual showed 105 inch lbs.

10. Remove the TOP cooler line fitting in front of the radiator. Attach a 3/8 ID tube over the flare and use a hose clamp to seal it. Run the other end into a bucket or other container.

11. With wheels on the floor and blocked, fill the trans with fresh fluid, and start the engine. Put the gear selector in Neutral, and watch the fluid fill the container (mine was dark brown). When the flow reduces, stop the engine, refill the trans, and repeat. I ran 4 gallons of fluid through and eventually it turned red, the color of new fluid. Make sure you reserve enough fluid to top off the trans.

12. Re-connect the cooler line. Start the engine, run through each gear selector, and top off the fluid per the manual.



The project is done. In my case, I had 4x4 skid pans to wipe down, and it still dripped a little for a few days.

 

One thing to keep in mind is the sump filter (The flat one), has an O-ring that often gets left in the hole. The factory filter had it separate. Some aftermarket ones have it molded into the tube. If the filter won't go in its VERY likely the old O-ring is still up there. It can be hard to see as well. Also the screw that holds the other end of the filter in shouldn't be torqued very tight. It will crush the filter if you do.

 

Hi, I'm trying to understand how your sump filter was hanging if you put in that bolt that holds it?

I agree with buying quality parts, in fact, I only suggest Mopar for the canister filter, cause they have an anti-drain back valve, which I didn't see even with the quality aftermarkets. TBH, u can flush the flat filter both ways with a garden hose and reuse.

I put a drain plug on the pan so I don't have to pull it off to drain it. I do a single drain and fill every 25K and I use Walmart super tech ATF+4. I don't try to do all the fluid at once and I don't run the risk of running it dry cause the motor is off the whole time. Front end jacked to the sky yields about six or seven qts. With almost 340K mi, it shifts like it's reading my mind. Never an issue.

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota-tech/403318-oil-and-atf-change-rainy-weekend.html

https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-dakota-tech/373037-transmission-filters-mopar-vs-aftermarket-2.html