Wanted to close the loop on this, for anyone searching in the future. Dropped the trans again, and I installed two standard ⅜" washers under the pivot ball and its washer (3 washers total). That almost totally fixed my problem. There is still a hint of clutch engagement with the pedal depressed, but way better than before. If I had to do it again, I would've installed a ⅜" UNC nut under the pivot ball. Even with it spaced out, I confirmed with a horoscope that there is plenty of room between the pressure plate and clutch fork at full disengagement. Cheers!

 

I think I am having the same issue, and am using pretty much the same parts except for a different brand flywheel and it's on a 4.7 instead of a 5.2. Was your clutch grabbing right off the floor as well (before you added washers to shim the pivot ball)? How did you determine you still had some clutch drag when your foot was fully on the clutch pedal? I'm getting ready to take mine apart again to add some shims to the pivot ball.

 

what did you find out?

 

The 12” clutch needs shims behind the pivot ball to work properly. The 11” clutch works like it should with just the factory single washer behind the pivot ball. Also, a 2001 4.7 flywheel works just fine on a 2000 - no parts site was able to verify that but I tried it and it worked just fine. Also, verify that your clutch fork is installed with the correct orientation. I have a thread on here with more info on what I did; but these are the highlights.

 

that is interesting. Appreciate the info. I wonder what makes the 12” clutch require the shims.

 

It would be the total thickness of the assembly. The geometry of the fingers on the 12” pressure plate are different than the stock. They stick out further and thus require more pedal throw than what the factory hydraulic system can provide and thus cannot properly disengage that particular clutch. I’d stay away from the 12” clutch if I were you.

 

This thread has been helpful for me, I have been dealing with a similar issue. '99 5.2 NV3500. I purchased the truck in 2019 and immediately put a clutch in as the old one was shot. I'm not sure what clutch I put it in it.. I don't experience any grinding, but if I sit at a stop in N, it is VERY hard to get into 1st after, regardless of rpm, double clutching.. It's an issue that only started a couple years ago. The weird thing is, the symptom totally goes away in the winter, when I live at high elevation in the Sierra Nevadas. Never has an issue getting into first. Anyway I digress, I had the trans out this week, hoping to find a sticky T/O bearing or some other obvious signs. The trans is back in with a new bearing and a new master/slave assembly. Did not fix the issue, so I guess I'll be adding some washers behind that pivot ball soon.. I didn't pay attention to the orientation of the fork, but I will when I have the trans out again out of curiosity.

 

A worn fork and a worn pivot ball will change the geometry. Also, a backwards clutch fork will change the geometry as well. If you have the transmission out, then replace the ball and fork if you haven't done so already. Also, if you did not replace the flywheel when you did your clutch then the step height is likely out of spec and causing engagement issues as well. You should always replace the flywheel in these trucks when you do a clutch job.