I have P0443, P0500, ABS 01 and 73. I also get P0202 sometimes. I am a frustrated 100% total & permanent disabled navy vet who had zero issues before a snake decided to pour sugar and syrup in my gas tank. I've replaced both downstream O2 sensors and cylinder #2 fuel injector and got new oem gas cap. I can't find a service manual for my truck anywhere that us less than a few hundred bucks, way more than I can afford. And I can't afford the dealership either. Any thoughts?
Thank you kindly.
Chris Hughes

 

the po443 is i think is for the purge solnoid . im not sure how to test it

 

P0443 (M) : Evap Purge Solenoid Circuit : An open or shorted condition detected in the EVAP purge solenoid control circuit.
P0500 (M): No Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal : A vehicle speed signal was not detected.
I can't find a definition for ABS 01, but ABS 73 is a Watchdog (CPU) error in the Controller of Anti Brake. For 4 Wheel ABS, it's directly on the hydraulic unit. For 2 Wheel ABS, it's between the hydraulic unit and hood hinge.

It sounds to me that whoever is mad at you, didn't stop at the fuel filler. At best they unplugged things, at worst they cut some wires.

 

Thank you. I'm hoping to get this figured out and fixed w/o having to take to a shop as the last 3 places have really screwed me. Maybe time to recycle and buy new to me truck.

 

PM me your email address and I can get you a manual that will work for your truck.

Have you dumped the fuel out of the tank & got it cleaned out?
)
I'd recommend to pull the rail again, minimally soak them in a ziploc with simple green, then if you can get to a wrecking yard to get an injector pig tail, cycle the solenoid several times with the body in the ziploc bag with clean simple green in it. flush the rail with simple green as well (or carb cleaner).

Once its back together with clean fuel in the tank, toss in either dex/merc atf, 8-12 oz or marvel mystery oil, same amount to approx 1/4-1/3 tank and let it run.

No advice on your other code(s).

Recently my 2002 4.7 developed a mis-fire on cyl #6. Did the normal debugging steps, moved the coil, swapped the plugs (all cylinders over to an autolite 3923 gapped at .035), both to no avail. Then swapped the injector, (12 hole from a chevy) with no change... (cleaned all the injectors & did new o-rings while I was at it (used an ultra-sonic cleaner with the simple green in the ziploc bag)). Still no change. Next step was sea foam thru the intake with a 30ish minute hot soak, after clearing it all out & the test drive, the frequency of the mis-fire dropped a good amount. Did a 2nd sea foam treatment & so far on cold start & 30+ mile drive, no mis-fire. I suspect there was carbon buildup on the valve seat that is now gone with the 2 sea foam treatments. Only reason I bring all this up is to get you thinking of alternate methods to fixing the engine issue.

 

My email is: basserxtc@gmail.com

I found that I had no compression on #2 cyl. Removed valve cover and found rocker arm for #2 laying in the valve cover. My brother in law (mechanic) did some reaearch and tells me he found identical reports from other owners with same engine with recommendations to flush engine at each oil change and to replace all valve lifters unless I want one of the others to get clogged and fail as apparently people who only replaced the initial valve lifter had same problem soon after with one or more other valve lifters/rocker arms.

Thank you very much for your time and help. I appreciate it so much!

 

email sent... Sorry for the late reply, been down with the flu & mostly off line.

the recommendations to flush the motor are a good one, what I'd do is get a bottle of Hot Shots Stiction Eliminator and add it in with fresh oil, leave it in for the entire OCI once your motors running again. This will clean out the motor well. The 1st oil change after the install on my 4.7 I was shocked and alarmed at what came out. Continued to roll with it and on the next OCI, the oil came out as expected (Royal Purple oil). I believe it cleared all the oil passages that may have had garbage collecting at them and brought it down into the pan & filter. Oil pressure on this motor is at the upper "good" mark on the dash gauge & measured something like 25 PSI/idle at operating temp years back when I measured it with a real gauge. Fast forward 40k miles later & the pressure continues to indicate the same on the dash gauge.

The pic below is my Ram at the 500k valve adjust back in November... I was shocked at how clean it was compared to valve adjusts in the past.