It wont even crank. Just when I turn the key, nothing.

Me and my buddy installed power windows on it yesterday. We wired them into the heated seats fuse, cause id ont have heated seats. The windows worked fine.

After we finished, I went to leave and the car wouldnt start. The battery is fine.. the headlights come on full, radio works, AC works, dash lights work. We even used a voltmeter and the BATTERY IS FINE.
Next we checked the fuses. All the fuses in both fuse boxes are good. Upon further inspection though, the fuses in the cab for the engine relay, the starter, and the cluster 1 aren't getting any power. Both of the fuses are fine, but they arent getting any power (we tested them)

Next we went under the hood and checked the fuse relays. We arent sure how to test them, or which ones to check.

Help! What do I do now? What c ould the possible problems be, and how do i fix them?

 

well find the relays for your starter.. to test them. i believe its in ohms scaleon the multimeter and you check terminals 85 and 86.. i beleive its 85.XX , something like that, then its fine, get yourself a chilton manual, has a great section to test relays, helped me at least.. dont quote me on this but i wonder if you did something to the body control modual.. if these trucks even have them... if they do.. your problem may lie in there.. off to the dealer [:'(].. good luck...

 

hey guys im red8535's buddy
im thinking its a fuseable link inline after the fusebox somewhere, any ideas on this, or where it is?

 

There isn't a fuseable link that effects the starting system (there is one for the charging system, which is the only one I believe).
You can make sure the starter realy works by simply putting it in another relays spot (I believe there is a relay for the wipers). If the wipers work when you change out the relays, the starter relay is good (I wouldn't substitute the wiper relay in place of the starter relay, since the wiper relay probably can't handle as many amps).

When you take the relay out, you will notice some numbers stamped on the bottom of the relay, near each blade. With a multimeter, you can do another simple test (with the relay removed)
With the key off, cavity 30 should be getting battery power at all times.
With transmission in onlypark or neutral (and probably with the key on), cavity 85 should provide a good ground path.
With they key in the start position, there should be battery power at cavity 86, as long as the key is in the start position.
Power is sent to the starter via cavity 87.

 

installing your own power windows$200.00
tools to install the windows $75.00
beer and pizza for your buddies$50.00
screwing the whole thing up
cuz you don't know what are doing PRICELESS
HEHE sorry I had to say it

 

Well, I got it started. It turned out to be just a fuse under the hood for the starter and ignition that we had put back in the wrong place, so there was no fuse there for it... stupid.

Anyway, now it runs, but whenever i'm initially starting it.. it stalls after 3-5 seconds. It wil start, but the RPMs imediately start falling until it stalls out. I have to rev it, then put it into drive to get her going. After iv been driving for a few minutes, its fine.

Could this just have something to do with it sitting there for a few days in the rain/snow? Could it be i need my oil changed? new gas? Or is this a seperate issue? What could have caused it

 

if you had yor battery disconnected for a while. it could be the computer is learning it's self again. I know when I start my truck up after shes been sitting acouple months with the battery disconnected it will run rough for a lil while.

 

I wouldn't worry about that too much. When my battery went dead (Left my lights on) I had to keep it reved to keep it running. After a bit of driving and letting it idle a bit it worked just fine.

 

Its just because it lost fuel pressure.. hadnt been run in a few days. Its fine now.