driving in 4wd
I don't see the point of having a 4WD system that you can't use for 99% of the time (unless you do a lot of off-roading), you've paid for it and you carry it with you all the time but if you use selectable 4WD on the road (wet or dry) you WILL break something. Its not even as if you save any gas (see privious post for explanation).
In answer to your question, its has AWD (used unless I'm off-road), AWD-Locked (off-road only) and AWD-Low for really serious stuff. As I rarely carryreal heavystuff in the back, it really helps to have the AWD system when pulling away in the wet, especially when turning out of junctions. Mine also has the LSD, so its virtually impossible to get any wheel spin. Can't do burn-outs but I've always got the bike for that sort of stuff!
Regards,
Paul
PS: Mines done 50,000mls so far. Its not the Quadra Trac system as the centre diff is either free or locked (depending in your selection), the Quadra Trac had a LSD in the centre diff.
In answer to your question, its has AWD (used unless I'm off-road), AWD-Locked (off-road only) and AWD-Low for really serious stuff. As I rarely carryreal heavystuff in the back, it really helps to have the AWD system when pulling away in the wet, especially when turning out of junctions. Mine also has the LSD, so its virtually impossible to get any wheel spin. Can't do burn-outs but I've always got the bike for that sort of stuff!
Regards,
Paul
PS: Mines done 50,000mls so far. Its not the Quadra Trac system as the centre diff is either free or locked (depending in your selection), the Quadra Trac had a LSD in the centre diff.
Paul, you won't automatically break something if you pop it in 4wd on the street. On dry pavement if you make sharp turns you'll put a lot of stress on your drivetrain, and you can snap stuff, but it's not definite. On wet roads you'll still run the risk, and I don't recommend running 4wd, but it's still not a 100% chance of breaking stuff.
I've used 4wd on the road dozens of times to get going without breaking my transfer case, u-joints, or axles.
I've used 4wd on the road dozens of times to get going without breaking my transfer case, u-joints, or axles.
I have a 97 v8 with "shift on the fly " 4wd and I frequently use it in snow or ice on the street for leaving a stop. I shift back to 2wd as soon as I can after I get moving again. I have on occasion accidently left it in 4wd on dry pavement and suffered no damage. I usually figure it out when I'm making a fairly sharp corner and I feel the front end start to bind a little ( my 4wd indicator light hasn't worked since 1999). I agree with horatio102 that you aren't for sure going to break something unless you drive hard and turn sharp on dry pavement. Wet roads(rain) could go either way, I guess my advice would be use4wd if you have to to get rolling and then go back to 2wd asap and if you leave it in 4wd take it easy especially in the corners because that is when things will get stressed.
Well this is some good info!
I drove home from work tonight (about 12 min drive from home),
1st light the rear spun a bit so I pulled the shifter down to 4w hi.
Then drove the rest of the way in that mode.
4 turns later and I'm making the tight turn into my driveway...
The front starts bucking or chirping as I make the sharp turn!
I now know it's binding, and not a good thing!!
Could not figure out what the heck was going on.
Thanks guys! I won't make the same mistake again.
I drove home from work tonight (about 12 min drive from home),
1st light the rear spun a bit so I pulled the shifter down to 4w hi.
Then drove the rest of the way in that mode.
4 turns later and I'm making the tight turn into my driveway...
The front starts bucking or chirping as I make the sharp turn!
I now know it's binding, and not a good thing!!
Could not figure out what the heck was going on.
Thanks guys! I won't make the same mistake again.
ORIGINAL: DakinUK
Milage wise, there won't be any differance between the two differant systems or if you select 2WD on the part-time system. This is because neither of the systems use free-wheeling hubs which disconnect the drive-shafts from the front wheels when in 2WD. As all the shafts are always rotating (weather driven directly by the engine or by the road), they cause the same amount of drag. Therefore, as you're carrying all the extra weight around with you all the time, you might as well be able to use it all of the time. That's why I've got the AWD system!
Hope this helps,
Paul
Milage wise, there won't be any differance between the two differant systems or if you select 2WD on the part-time system. This is because neither of the systems use free-wheeling hubs which disconnect the drive-shafts from the front wheels when in 2WD. As all the shafts are always rotating (weather driven directly by the engine or by the road), they cause the same amount of drag. Therefore, as you're carrying all the extra weight around with you all the time, you might as well be able to use it all of the time. That's why I've got the AWD system!
Hope this helps,
Paul
Now for "needing 4wd" on wet roads, well the best traction control is your right foot.
Prolonged driving on pavement in 4wd does accelerate wear on teh 4wd system. With the exception of AWD vehicles, 4wd wasnt intended for all around driving. REplacing the chain in the transfer case isnt fun, nor replacing hubs or ring/pinion/spider gears in the front carrier. I've played with the sonoma in 4wd on dry roads doing launches. Quite interesting when teh clutch is dropped at 5K and all 4 tires lite up.
Half the time it took snowfalls of over 8-10" before I'd even bother using 4wd. Even in 4wd you can only go as fast as teh people in front of you. Ironically the most vehicles I see stuck in a ditch after a snowstorm are 4wd/awd's. All it does is let you take off without spinning tires like a madman. Wont help you once you lose control.
Hi Horatio,
I'm not getting into an argument about these things but if ALL the shafts are turning when in 2WD (as happens on the Dakota system), how can it matter which end they are driven off? Either the engine powers them directly when in 4WD or it turns them indirectly because the front wheels turn whenever the rears do the pushing. To get the fuel savings you mentioned, the system in that vehicle must have had unlocking front hubs or something similar like the Mitsubishi "Super-Select" system that disengages one of the front half-shafts which stops ALL of the front drive system turning when in 2WD. The only way the AWD might use more fuel is that there's an additional diff thats always turning. I'm happy to trade 1 or 2 MPG for the grip this system offers, all of the time.
Also, I'm sorry if I gave the impression that the tranny will self destruct the instant you put itinto 4WD on a dry or wet road. What I ment to imply was that you will seriously shorten the life of many of the drivetrain componants. Not to mention the adverce effects it has on the cars handling.
Respectfully,
Paul.
I'm not getting into an argument about these things but if ALL the shafts are turning when in 2WD (as happens on the Dakota system), how can it matter which end they are driven off? Either the engine powers them directly when in 4WD or it turns them indirectly because the front wheels turn whenever the rears do the pushing. To get the fuel savings you mentioned, the system in that vehicle must have had unlocking front hubs or something similar like the Mitsubishi "Super-Select" system that disengages one of the front half-shafts which stops ALL of the front drive system turning when in 2WD. The only way the AWD might use more fuel is that there's an additional diff thats always turning. I'm happy to trade 1 or 2 MPG for the grip this system offers, all of the time.
Also, I'm sorry if I gave the impression that the tranny will self destruct the instant you put itinto 4WD on a dry or wet road. What I ment to imply was that you will seriously shorten the life of many of the drivetrain componants. Not to mention the adverce effects it has on the cars handling.
Respectfully,
Paul.
Paul - We're in agreement on the Dak's fuel economy. I didn't think there was much of a difference, if any, between the part time and AWD versions. RP Racing was talking about an older Chevy getting much better fuel economy in 2wd than 4wd, to which I asked if the front hubs were auto-engaging versus the Dakota's permanent design.
Also I suspect that the driving conditions have something to do with better fuel economy in 2wd as well. Slush, sand, mud, or any other adverse traction situation is pretty much going to ruin your fuel economy anyway, 2wd or 4wd, since the rolling resistance increases exponentially and the percentage of torque creating forward movement is decreased through tire spin.
And yes, if you drive around in 4wd you run the serious risk of damaging your drivetrain and it won't corner as well. Putting it in 4wd to get going in a straight line however won't have any adverse effects.
Also I suspect that the driving conditions have something to do with better fuel economy in 2wd as well. Slush, sand, mud, or any other adverse traction situation is pretty much going to ruin your fuel economy anyway, 2wd or 4wd, since the rolling resistance increases exponentially and the percentage of torque creating forward movement is decreased through tire spin.
And yes, if you drive around in 4wd you run the serious risk of damaging your drivetrain and it won't corner as well. Putting it in 4wd to get going in a straight line however won't have any adverse effects.


