4WD electrical problem
Hello, I've a 2001 Dakota Sport 4.7 clubcab ( thats the 2 door w/ small back benchseat ) I bought it about 4 years ago used. It had 26,000 miles on it then and now has 83,000 mostly highway miles. I drive it easy ( almost an old guy now ) and have never taken it offroad. I have only used the 4WD about 10 times over the last few winters and to carry some dirt/mulch down the grass hill in my yard. Everything is stock on the truck except for the radio which had already been installed by the previous owner. Everything has always been fine with the truck except the balljoint problem which was worked on during the recall but thats another story, I don't think its really fixed. Anyway they only other trouble was the first week I had it the blower resister went and the dealer changed that out for free as it was less than 90 days I had the truck.
My 4WD electric trouble started 3 weeks ago. I had not used it since about 2 months before that moving some mulch it was fine then. 3 weeks ago we had a very cold morning and I'm assuming coincidence but after I started the truck the Service 4WD light was on. I found the fuse blown and replaced it. When I got back into the truck I smelled electrical burning like ozonish. The 4WD switch has 4 lights, 2hi, 4hi, 4lo and neutral, they were all blinking then went dark I tried the 4WD anyway and no good so removed the fuse and took it to the dealer. I am good with tools but I didn't feel I could troubleshoot this. The dealer said the switch was bad and ordered one, I couldn't believe a truck dealer wouldn't have such a thing onhand. They installed that $142.00 and then told me the transfercase motor had an internal short that melted the orginal switch. They told me thats a backordered item. Again I'm amazed at that statement from a northern truck dealer. They tell me its $700.00 installed and the part is $360.00 So I'm driving now in 2wd and hoping for no snow. I crawled underneath the truck and found what I think is the motor on the side of the transfercase. Its a black cylinder with 4 small torx bolts.I tried to take it off directly. Thought I might peek inside to see if its repairable but it appears that after you get the 4 bolts off there is no room to remove it. I think the front drive shaft has to be lowered and then a plate removed from the side of the transfercase. then you can take off the motor and replace it. I have a chilton book but they sure don't write them like they used to. Only 3 pages and most of its info about the manual type.
If anyone has any information on what I have described here or the procedure to change out that motorpleasepost. Thanks very much.
My 4WD electric trouble started 3 weeks ago. I had not used it since about 2 months before that moving some mulch it was fine then. 3 weeks ago we had a very cold morning and I'm assuming coincidence but after I started the truck the Service 4WD light was on. I found the fuse blown and replaced it. When I got back into the truck I smelled electrical burning like ozonish. The 4WD switch has 4 lights, 2hi, 4hi, 4lo and neutral, they were all blinking then went dark I tried the 4WD anyway and no good so removed the fuse and took it to the dealer. I am good with tools but I didn't feel I could troubleshoot this. The dealer said the switch was bad and ordered one, I couldn't believe a truck dealer wouldn't have such a thing onhand. They installed that $142.00 and then told me the transfercase motor had an internal short that melted the orginal switch. They told me thats a backordered item. Again I'm amazed at that statement from a northern truck dealer. They tell me its $700.00 installed and the part is $360.00 So I'm driving now in 2wd and hoping for no snow. I crawled underneath the truck and found what I think is the motor on the side of the transfercase. Its a black cylinder with 4 small torx bolts.I tried to take it off directly. Thought I might peek inside to see if its repairable but it appears that after you get the 4 bolts off there is no room to remove it. I think the front drive shaft has to be lowered and then a plate removed from the side of the transfercase. then you can take off the motor and replace it. I have a chilton book but they sure don't write them like they used to. Only 3 pages and most of its info about the manual type.
If anyone has any information on what I have described here or the procedure to change out that motorpleasepost. Thanks very much.
I'm not sure on the procedure but I know they have the motor on E bay for sale. You can actually buy a Chilton's manual specifically for transmissions and transfer cases. I have a manual 4x4 on mine and I just got a new transfer case installed, mechanic said this was the first NP231 he'd ever replaced, he couldn't understand how it went bad. Anyways, things break and there's no way around it. Best of luck!
www.dodgeparts.com is down right now, but check the prices there first. I got mine covered under warranty and their invoice wasn't anywhere near $700. I'd go to your local Napa and see what they can do for you in regards to parts.
How did you make out? Looks like I am having almost the exact same problem. Right now I've got no
lights at all on my 4wd switch and it does nothing when I turn the dial, just stays in 2wd. I didn't
do the burning smell thing though. My 4x4 fuse is good.
lights at all on my 4wd switch and it does nothing when I turn the dial, just stays in 2wd. I didn't
do the burning smell thing though. My 4x4 fuse is good.
rad71vette - that's what happened to mine. It's common. I got mine fixed under warranty though, so it didn't cost me anything. IIRC they bought the part from NAPA

As of right now the truck is at the dealer waiting for a new TCCM Transfercase control module. This will be the 3rd part to be replaced. I put in the Shift Control Motor myself as it saved me about 350. in labor but after putting that in the problem was still there but kinda worse. I was able to get the truck to change into 4lo only and it would not go back in 2hi no matter what I tried. So I had to it flatbedded to the dealer who now says I have a bad TCCM. This is what actually burned so as I said I'm not sure if the switch or the motor were bad. After the TCCM which is the computer piece there isn't anything left to change except the wiring. The TCCM is another 340. part and a lot easier to put in but since its electrical/computer I'm going to let them do it. So far I'm without the truck for about 9 of the last 15 workdays. I can't believe this is another part that they don't have in stock. I don't think they keep anything around. I'm not surprised as this dealer is also BMW is probably keeps lots of that stuff for the $$$ folks.
Since you may not have had something burn out its possible you only need your TCCM reprogrammed. I can't confirm this but I have heard that some of them only go blank and it costs about $40. to have it fixed. Since I smelled smoke I believe that mine probably did burn.
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Hi, They took forever to get the new TCCM but its in and now working fine. $430. just for the module. I'm guessing this is a dealer only part, anyone know? Anyway now I have a new switch, control motor and control module. I'm not sure if the motor is actually bad but I still have the old one. They never gave me the old switch so I don't know if it was really bad.
Yes I am back on the road again and I still love this truck but disapointed in the dealers service.I also don't like the way they tell me in a around the bush way that I would get better service if I would pay for extended service upfront. Go USA but this is why Toyota is #1 ?



