I use Autolites gapped at .054 (hot ignition), but normally gap should be .040. These Daks tend to eat up caps 'n rotors so ya might wanna take a look at that too.

 

I tried to get at them, but couldnt get a good angle with a screwdriver, so i tried a ratchet with a swivel thing. It got in there but wouldnt turn the screw. Pretty sure its the original cap and rotor after looking at some of the maintenance records someone kept, (they kinda seem incomplete though). Anyone have any advice of how to get in there? One side I could get at just couldnt get it loosened. The other I couldnt even see how to get at it. Can i spray a little WD40 on the screw or would that be bad? I have a chiltons but it doesnt really show how to get at the cap, just shows to unscrew it. Anyone know of a tutorial or site with pictures? Its a 99 v6. Thanks again for any replies. Everyone on these boards has helped me a lot with my amateur questions.

 

to be honest the reason he said bosch+4 was prolly for his sale cap you need to run champion plugs in these dodges i have a 1995 neon that can eat a 06 rx8 for lunch and all i run for plugs is standard copper plugs mind you i have to replace them pretty often but ngk is for cars made in japan dodge isint just run some good champion copper plugs in it youll get yer gas milage back and keep the gap at the specs on your emmisions lable under the hood

 

NGK plugs work great.

Typically you want to run a narrower gap (.040, 045) for oem ignitions. If you've got a hotter coil and whatnot you can run a wider gap - remember it takes more juice to bridge a wider gap, but it produces a larger more powerful spark. The downside of running a larger gap is that it'll burn up the electrodes faster. Not a big deal if you're running copper plugs anyway and you replace them every 15k or so.