I have a problem with the headlights on my 2002 Dakota.

Both low beams stopped working at the same time. I thought I must have been extra lucky to have them burn out at the same time. The high beams work fine.

I got new bulbs, and after replacing the passenger bulb, I
tested it, and still no low beam.

Any idea what could be the problem? Bad headlight switch?

Edit: I just remembered that the intermittent wipers stopped working at about the same time. The wipers still work, just not the intermittent part. Could that be related?


Thanks.

 

It's either the headlight switch or the multi-function switch. I would guess the headlight switch would be more likely the cause of the problem. A Haynes book will have diagrams on how to check both switches with an ohm meter. Neither one is very difficult to replace.

Jimmy

 

i got an extra headlight switch if you need it

 

I'm not sure if this goes for Dakota's or not, but many vehicles are set up in this way.

Many times, the head light switch is wired through the multi-function switch on the column, even if it's separate from the multifunction switch itself. The problem could be two different issues, but double check that the head light switch is in fact wired separate from the multi-function switch. I say this because this sounds like a typical multi-function switch issue. But like i said, it could be two different issues.

 

It looks like it's probably the central timer module.

I checked out the multifunction switch and both the hi/low switch and the wiper switch tested fine. Both light and intermittent wiper signals go to the CTM.

I looked the CTM up in the service manual, and it says that when replacing it, I should read the old unit and program the new unit. I guess this means I need to take it to a dealer?

Does anyone know what they typically cost?

Thanks.

 

Ouch. Here in Florida it's around $300.00 parts and labor to replace a CTM. The dealer can use the DRB scan tool to tell for sure the CTM is bad. DRB is the only way to test a CTM and it is the only way to program the new CTM. The dealer should use your VIN to order the correct CTM for your truck, there are 2 different part numbers. They will also need to use the DRB tool to program your keyless entry remotes to the new CTM so be sure to take both remotes with you, if you have keyless entry.

You might save a little money if you can find a CTM from a junkyard, but you have to be sure the donor truck had the same options you have on your truck. It's risky using electronic parts from a junk yard, though. Best way is to get a new one from Dodge and let them program it.

Jimmy

 

I replaced the CTM with a new one from the dealer. It was $200 plus tax. That didn't fix the problem.

I started checking the wiring harness found that it's routed next to a metal bracket with sharp edges, and the bracket sliced through several of the wires.

Once I repaired the harness, everything works again.

Anyone want to buy a new CTM that's only been plugged in once for a couple minutes?

 

Sorry to hear about that. It sucks to buy parts and it still not be what was needed to fix the problem. You might hang onto the new CTM, in the event your original one ever does fail. I hear that it happens more up north and in the midwest where it gets really cold in winter. I read that the temperature extremes from being freezing cold then using the heater causes enough of a static charge that it can damage some circuitry and components in the CTM. A lot of its functions are low voltage and very sensitive anyway.

Jimmy

 

that happend to my truck about 6 months back and happened again...i thought i fixed it for good but it happened again

what was wrong with me was a wire came loose on a wire block on the coloum and i plugged it back in and coated it in wire wax to make it stick..im sure it just came loose again...i have a few pix if you want them...


the green wire was the one i had to splice onto the black(with white stripe) wire to extend it so it could be plugged back into the block
wires3.jpg
better picture...the black wire it pointed into the blue splice and the green wire is going to the connection block
wires4.jpg