Gang,

I performed a search and came up empty. I'm hoping someone may be able to answer a few questions.

Background:
So I decided to tackle job of replacing the shocks on my 1999 Dakota Sport Ext. cab 2WD w/a 3.9L V6 with 146,000 miles.

I noticed that the driver's rear shock nut is partially obstructed by the frame rail and the passenger rear shock nut is accessible from the fenderwell. I attempted to loosen the passenger side first. I tried using sockets and found that a 18 mm socket fit better than a 11/16 standard socket. The 11/16 socket fit but there was a little slop whereas the 18 mm was on securely. Looking through my tool chest I could not find my 18 mm box/open combo wrench (someone may have borrowed it and failed to return it). So I tried using my 11/16 standard box/open combo wrench and found that it was too small. It looks pretty straight forward but without a 18 mm wrench (which I'll get tomorrow) I can't verify if the nut is 18 mm. At least I know that my 11/16 wrench won't fit but the socket will (which I think is strange).

What wrench size do I need to remove the rear upper shock nut?

Can an open/box combo wrench fit in between the shock and frame on the driver's side to remove the shock nut?

Am I doing this hard way or is there an easier way?

Any hints or tricks?

Thanks,
Dennis

 

Hi Dennis,
Just did the rear shocks today on my '99 at 139,000 miles - had the same trouble getting the nuts to turn - rust, and all that. What I found out was that the upper nuts have this little piece of metal that is supposed to keep them from turning - that promptly bent on the driver's side, but worked correctly on the driver's side. Just had to turn the bolt (not the nut) with the socket that fit it - space is quite limited and it took lots of penetrant to get the rust off and free the threads but eventually it came off. On the driver's side I had to take a crescent and put it on the little metal lip and wedge it up against the bottom of the truck bed to hold it in place while I turned the bolt. Again, tight fit, and busted knuckles, but it worked. Haven't driven it yet, but I'm sure from the looks of the originals it's going to make a bit of difference.
Good luck,
Patrick

 

@ Patrick: Thanks for your contribution to this thread. Hopefully this will help others in the future.

I too replaced the shocks on the Dakota today. Just as you found, removal of the rear shocks were a bit difficult but its possible. I found the rear passenger side a little more difficult as compared to the rear driver's side due to the muffler and the exhaust heat shield. I found the heat shield made it really hard to get a wrench on the bolt. A tip to those of you who will be changing your shocks: wear a pair of mechanic's gloves. If it wasn't for my gloves I would have cuts and scrape on my hands due to the exhaust heat shield.

I removed the tires to give me some room. I know it is possible to change the shocks with it on but as I proceeded I was glad to have the room.

If you can, and you live in a rust prone area, I'd recommend using a lot of penetrating oil. I prefer Gibbs but I'm sure anything will work as long as you put it on and let it work for a bit. I used Gibbs about 10 minutes before tackling this chore and managed to get everything loose without breaking a bolt.

I used a 18mm, 6 point combo wrench on the nut and a 15 mm combo wrench and socket on the bolt. If you can buy a ratcheting combination wrench set, do it.

To get to the bolt on the passenger's side I first used a 15 mm combo wrench (wish I had a ratcheting combo wrench, it would have made my life a lot easier) and when the bolt was loose enough I switched to a short 15 mm socket attached to a 18" extension which I snaked over the exhaust heat shield. Because I didn't have a ratcheting 15 mm wrench I had to use the open end and flip the wrench every quarter turn. That sucked and I could have saved about 15 minutes with the ratcheting wrench. I removed the top bolt and nut, then removed the bottom bolt and nut. Before reinstalling the new shock I put anti-seize on the bolts. I inserted the shock, replaced the top bolt and nut then clipped the wire holding the compressed shock and let it fall to the bottom attachment point. Inserted the bottom bolt and nut and tightened.

I also did the front shocks. I removed the front tires and used penetrating oil again. There is a nut recessed in the upper control arm that holds the shock. There are 2 nuts that hold the bottom of the shock on the lower control arm. The hardest part was the top nut because of the rust. The nut was rust welded on the shock and I had to use vise grips to hold the shock as I used an offset wrench to loosen the nut. Again, if I had an offset ratcheting wrench I could have saved a bunch of time. The bottom 2 nuts were rusty but I managed to remove them. After getting the bottom nuts off the shock is pulled out. Again I put anti-seize on the shock and on the bottom bolts. The fronts were easier than the rears. The Dakota rides better after the install.

Hope this helps.

Dennis

 

Y'all hit the nail on the head with that one!