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Ball joint question

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  #11  
Old 12-11-2014, 10:36 PM
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Always use the crush-nut style locknuts. Polylocks work but nylon will eventually wear down. Unfortunately the polylocks are easiest to find.
 
  #12  
Old 12-11-2014, 10:37 PM
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And yes I'm saying not to use so much torque on both nuts the link bars are a very poor design I think they decided to use such a high torque just to be safe but this puts high stress on the links. The bottom no its just if you use that high torque they are a bitch to remove I would use around 35 or 45 max for the bottom the top just snug them up and crush the rubber bushings just a bit but not too much or the joint will not flex easy as it should.
 
  #13  
Old 12-11-2014, 10:45 PM
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  #14  
Old 12-12-2014, 08:59 AM
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Thanks, guys. 98DAKAZ, thanks for taking the time to post all that great info. I will use loctite and go easy on the torque.
 
  #15  
Old 12-14-2014, 04:24 PM
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Well, guys. She's all done. I changed out the endlinks and they made a huge difference in front end feel. It feels virgin-like. It also quieted down the clunks I used to hear over rough surfaces. I realized that the upper and lower ball joints are all still good, so I'll just hold on to the spare set.

Finally, I took some steps to preserve the ball joints and tie rod ends. I got one of these grease needles... basically a hypodermic needle, which fits onto the end of a grease gun. I pierced the boots of all the ball joints and tie rod ends, then pumped some good moly grease in. When done, I resealed the tiny hole by wiping the area with brake cleaner and dabbing a dot of permatex black gasket sealer on it. Worked like a charm and today, I couldn't peel the permatex off one when I tried. Even if it fell off, the hole is so small it cannot be seen, so water is not a worry.





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Last edited by Dodgevity; 12-14-2014 at 05:31 PM.
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  #16  
Old 12-15-2014, 11:40 AM
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Yea those needles work good that's what I did till I replaced my Ball joints.
 



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