Car stalling
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Car stalling
So I have been dealing with an intermittent stalling issue with the wife's 04 5.7l Durango. Car was also idling and running ruff. 98k.
I knew I was 8k past the service and decided to change plugs, oil, filters, PVC valve and drive belt. This all took about 4 hours including a tire rotation and some flash updates to the Radio,Instrument Cluster, ECM, and TCM.
The car seems to be driving ok know.
The stalling would happen when coming to a hard stop most of the time and sometimes with just a normal stop. The idle when the car would stall would drop to 500 rpm or just a little lower and then engine off. On restart I would have to give the car gas to restart. Sometime it would take a few key cycles.
I hope the problem is solve or it is back to the idea that there is a transmission solenoid sticking.
I knew I was 8k past the service and decided to change plugs, oil, filters, PVC valve and drive belt. This all took about 4 hours including a tire rotation and some flash updates to the Radio,Instrument Cluster, ECM, and TCM.
The car seems to be driving ok know.
The stalling would happen when coming to a hard stop most of the time and sometimes with just a normal stop. The idle when the car would stall would drop to 500 rpm or just a little lower and then engine off. On restart I would have to give the car gas to restart. Sometime it would take a few key cycles.
I hope the problem is solve or it is back to the idea that there is a transmission solenoid sticking.
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
So the car stalled today on a cold start. Seems that this is the only time it stalls now. Just to try something, when coming to a stop I shifted to "N" and the car was fine. As soon as I shifted to "D" the car stalled.
Were can I find a valve body for this transmission and have a shift kit installed alright in the valve body?
Were can I find a valve body for this transmission and have a shift kit installed alright in the valve body?
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Forgot to mention that I cleaned the throttle body as I was doing the service. If the thorttle body being dirty was the problem I would think the stalling would happen all the time, nut just when the car is cold and first started.
Seeing that idle is higher on cold start coming to a stop and the car stalling I would think would be less likely as the idle is not that low when cold.
Maybe I have a temp sensor issue? Not sure as I can not get the car to through a fault.
Site Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 8,374
Likes: 28
From: Sioux Falls, SD
Our engines tend to idle slightly lower in DRIVE then NEUTRAL or PARK, especially when cold. Usually that doesn't cause a problem, of course, so I didn't even notice it until my wife's had a similar issue.
Her fix was a new pre-cat (upstream) oxygen sensor. It idled rough, but didn't stall, until you put it in REVERSE or DRIVE. Then it would almost stall out. Oxygen sensors are only rated for 100,000 miles, sometimes they fail prematurely. Ours made it to 85,000. I wasn't thinking oxygen sensor was the issue because I wasn't getting oxygen sensor codes, just a very occasional "too rich" code (P1129) and a cylinder misfire (P0300). I replaced the IAC, MAP, and AIT to no effect (TPS was less than a year old already). Finally, after almost a month, she popped a P0152 code, which is oxygen sensor voltage to high. Replaced it with a Denso brand (OEM) unit, and she's back to normal.
When was the battery and alternator last checked? Weak either of those cause Chrysler products to do weird things. Worst case scenario, could be a fuel pump on its way out.
Her fix was a new pre-cat (upstream) oxygen sensor. It idled rough, but didn't stall, until you put it in REVERSE or DRIVE. Then it would almost stall out. Oxygen sensors are only rated for 100,000 miles, sometimes they fail prematurely. Ours made it to 85,000. I wasn't thinking oxygen sensor was the issue because I wasn't getting oxygen sensor codes, just a very occasional "too rich" code (P1129) and a cylinder misfire (P0300). I replaced the IAC, MAP, and AIT to no effect (TPS was less than a year old already). Finally, after almost a month, she popped a P0152 code, which is oxygen sensor voltage to high. Replaced it with a Denso brand (OEM) unit, and she's back to normal.
When was the battery and alternator last checked? Weak either of those cause Chrysler products to do weird things. Worst case scenario, could be a fuel pump on its way out.
Last edited by jasonw; Apr 12, 2011 at 04:34 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Amateur
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Our engines tend to idle slightly lower in DRIVE then NEUTRAL or PARK, especially when cold. Usually that doesn't cause a problem, of course, so I didn't even notice it until my wife's had a similar issue.
Her fix was a new pre-cat (upstream) oxygen sensor. It idled rough, but didn't stall, until you put it in REVERSE or DRIVE. Then it would almost stall out. Oxygen sensors are only rated for 100,000 miles, sometimes they fail prematurely. Ours made it to 85,000. I wasn't thinking oxygen sensor was the issue because I wasn't getting oxygen sensor codes, just a very occasional "too rich" code (P1129) and a cylinder misfire (P0300). I replaced the IAC, MAP, and AIT to no effect (TPS was less than a year old already). Finally, after almost a month, she popped a P0152 code, which is oxygen sensor voltage to high. Replaced it with a Denso brand (OEM) unit, and she's back to normal.
When was the battery and alternator last checked? Weak either of those cause Chrysler products to do weird things. Worst case scenario, could be a fuel pump on its way out.
Her fix was a new pre-cat (upstream) oxygen sensor. It idled rough, but didn't stall, until you put it in REVERSE or DRIVE. Then it would almost stall out. Oxygen sensors are only rated for 100,000 miles, sometimes they fail prematurely. Ours made it to 85,000. I wasn't thinking oxygen sensor was the issue because I wasn't getting oxygen sensor codes, just a very occasional "too rich" code (P1129) and a cylinder misfire (P0300). I replaced the IAC, MAP, and AIT to no effect (TPS was less than a year old already). Finally, after almost a month, she popped a P0152 code, which is oxygen sensor voltage to high. Replaced it with a Denso brand (OEM) unit, and she's back to normal.
When was the battery and alternator last checked? Weak either of those cause Chrysler products to do weird things. Worst case scenario, could be a fuel pump on its way out.
My problem is no faults in any system at all. I am having a hard time under standing why a car would idle lower when cold. Most cars and manufactures bump up idle when a car is cold to get it to "closed loop" faster. This would cause the rpm to be slightly hire in all gear seating when stopped.
Battery was just replaced due to a light being left on. However you have given me an idea to check the alt. Problem is only happens when cold and I have the "R" issue that seems to poke it head around when it wants to.
This has be a much better reply then the last post.
I will also check application charts to see what is common if anything with first and "R". So I guess I can say I will
. LOL.I will post any finds I have once I complete this part.