2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

Fluids changed and rust on doors

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Old Sep 24, 2011 | 08:00 AM
  #1  
1969CoronetR/T's Avatar
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vaffanculo
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Default Fluids changed and rust on doors

I am approaching 60,000 miles on my Durango and had all the fluids and filters changed along with a tune-up. I used Royal Purple for all the fluids except the coolant. I had the PCV and the EGR replaced and a new set of Champion Iridium spark plugs to replace the old ones that had 30,000 miles on them. Cleaned the throttle body. I had the differentials changed with 75w-90 and 75w-140. Transmission (flushed), power steering and transfer case all replaced with ATF from Royal Purple. Changed the engine oil with 5w-20 and used a Royal Purple oil filter. I picked-up the Durango from the shop and did a few figure eights in the parking lot to get the gear lube worked into the differentials and then dove home. It drove nicely with no chatter from the LSD and parked it for the night. I got out of the vehicle and happened to look down at the bottom of the door and noticed that the seam (seal?) was rusted where the door skin overlaps from the front side of the door. Four and a half years and the doors on the front drivers and rear passengers are rusting on the inside door seam. I clean and wipe and the inside of the door jams every time I wash the exterior and even put a coat of wax on the inside twice a year. Wish my camera worked to take pictures, so off to my mother-in-laws to post a picture or two,
FF
 
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 03:01 PM
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Common on Gen1s but I don't know about Gen2s.

On the Gen1s, there are clear plastic square stickers covering the drain holes under the doors and on the rear hatch lip. They should have been removed but were not. Over the years, the water can't get out, stands in there and rusts the seams away.

Do you have the same squares?

Here was the "Rust (and repair) on inside door edges - Weekend project" thread I created for my similar issue last year. I saw it coming so mine may have been a little more out of hand than your is now so you still have time to clear it all up.

Once you are done, spray the inside seam and let drain with Boeshield T-9 spray to prevent future issues. It will dry with a wax seal over the area.

IndyD
 

Last edited by IndyDurango; Sep 25, 2011 at 03:05 PM.
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Old Sep 25, 2011 | 03:42 PM
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vaffanculo
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it is the same area as yours and looks like I will be following your procedure to repair.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:04 AM
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Originally Posted by fascistfaction
I am approaching 60,000 miles on my Durango and had all the fluids and filters changed along with a tune-up. I used Royal Purple for all the fluids except the coolant. I had the PCV and the EGR replaced and a new set of Champion Iridium spark plugs to replace the old ones that had 30,000 miles on them. Cleaned the throttle body. I had the differentials changed with 75w-90 and 75w-140. Transmission (flushed), power steering and transfer case all replaced with ATF from Royal Purple. Changed the engine oil with 5w-20 and used a Royal Purple oil filter. I picked-up the Durango from the shop and did a few figure eights in the parking lot to get the gear lube worked into the differentials and then dove home. It drove nicely with no chatter from the LSD and parked it for the night. I got out of the vehicle and happened to look down at the bottom of the door and noticed that the seam (seal?) was rusted where the door skin overlaps from the front side of the door. Four and a half years and the doors on the front drivers and rear passengers are rusting on the inside door seam. I clean and wipe and the inside of the door jams every time I wash the exterior and even put a coat of wax on the inside twice a year. Wish my camera worked to take pictures, so off to my mother-in-laws to post a picture or two,
FF
a workshop i took my D to also recommended to have the full works done as well including replacing the front/rear shocks. it quoted me $1.6k for it. how much did yours cost?
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:05 AM
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just saw my D had some of those square stickers like yours...guess i'll need to take them off eh....thanks!

Originally Posted by IndyDurango
Common on Gen1s but I don't know about Gen2s.

On the Gen1s, there are clear plastic square stickers covering the drain holes under the doors and on the rear hatch lip. They should have been removed but were not. Over the years, the water can't get out, stands in there and rusts the seams away.

Do you have the same squares?

Here was the "Rust (and repair) on inside door edges - Weekend project" thread I created for my similar issue last year. I saw it coming so mine may have been a little more out of hand than your is now so you still have time to clear it all up.

Once you are done, spray the inside seam and let drain with Boeshield T-9 spray to prevent future issues. It will dry with a wax seal over the area.

IndyD
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:27 AM
  #6  
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Glad I could help you and save some troubles on your Durango

IndyDurango
 
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Old Oct 5, 2011 | 12:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vintrepid
a workshop i took my D to also recommended to have the full works done as well including replacing the front/rear shocks. it quoted me $1.6k for it. how much did yours cost?
About $120 in parts, and 20 minutes in labor.

Order the shocks yourself from Rockauto.com, and install them yourself. Just need a jack stand, a 19mm socket, a 14mm wrench, 14mm socket, a breaker bar and a ratcheting wrench.

Don't call em' the Stealership for nothing.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2011 | 08:22 PM
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I had this same door seam rust on my 2008 Aspen, and took it in to have it repaired under the corrosion/rust warranty. The vehicle had 67k miles and was 4.5 years old. The service manager said he had never seen the door seams rust, but took pictures and promised to submit them for repair authorization.

Chrysler authorized the repair -- no cost to me, and I'm the 2nd owner -- and all four doors were repaired over the course of three days. They sublet the repair, which was more than fine with me.

Just FYI for those of you dealing with this. By the way, the drains on the doors were uncovered (no stickers) when I got the truck, but they seem too high up to keep this from happening anyway.
 
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