Sentry key is a microchip encoded ignition key to prevent vehicle theft. If you make a spare key or if the chip becomes damaged, the engine will start and run for a few seconds then turn off. Its gotta be something electrical throwing the system off to throw all those codes.

 

A sentry key for the Durangos will usually look similar to this:


But personally, I'd take a look at the IAT sensor first. If that goes out, you'll get at least some of the conditions you are running into. Without that sensor, the computer has a hard time knowing how to mix the air-fuel ratio properly.

 

Where is the IAT sensor located?? I also heard about the Idle Air Control?? Any suggestions??

 

I checked and it looks I have good fuel pressure and sparks. I might be leaning to the Throttle body. Are all those sensors mentioned before inside the TB??

 

Blkcbr,

I found this TSB regarding the vehicle anti theft system. It may pertain to your starting issue. It involves a flash to correct. TSB below.

NUMBER: 08-024-04
GROUP: Electrical
DATE: July 5, 2004

SUBJECT:
Flash: Vehicle Theft Security No Start - Crank, Start, Die
OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves flash reprogramming the Front Control Module (FCM).
MODELS:
2004 (HB) Durango
SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The vehicle operator may experience a no start condition. The FCM may fail to function as
intended after the ignition key is turned to the OFF position. This will cause the Vehicle
Theft Security system to activate. The vehicle will crank and briefly start, then die when the
ignition switch is released. If this occurs, the FCM will become inoperative until the battery
is disconnected and re-connected. This can also cause communication issues with the
StarSCAN which could render the tool incapable of providing any Diagnostic Trouble Code
information.
DIAGNOSIS:
If the vehicle exhibits the condition, perform the Repair Procedure.

 

[quote=DodgeCares;2770312]Blkcbr,

I found this TSB regarding the vehicle anti theft system. It may pertain to your starting issue. It involves a flash to correct. TSB below.


I replaced the TB and still doing the same thing.. It starts if I leave the gas pedal all the way down and will stay on if I leave the gas press, It will diw quick if I dont press the gas. So far replaced: coil/sparkplugs and cables, Throttle Body, Camshaft position sensor.

I was told it could be the catalityc converters.. how can I get those check??

 

Also have a P2172 code.

 

Blkcbr,

NOTE: A large vacuum leak is most likely the cause of this DTC.

Inspect the Intake Manifold and Throttle body for leaks and cracks.
Inspect the Power Brake Booster for any vacuum leaks.
Inspect the PCV system for proper operation or any vacuum leaks.
Inspect the MAP Sensor for proper installation.

 

My 5.7 Charger had the same exact problem except for #3 , It ran perfect and I parked it.The next day i went to take my son to the store and it wouldnt crank. It wouldnt start unless I floored it , but sounded incredibly ruff and would shut off. Not trying to scare you, just give you my experience-Mine ended up being a dropped valve seat which tore up one cylinder head chamber and very light damage to cylinder wall and left shrapnel in intake. I didnt mess up cylinder wall too much because I only tried it twice and flatbedded to mechanic. Get a borescope and look into each cylinder by taking out spark plugs to check for any damage or debris. Hopefully you dont have the same problem. If thats not it also check your EGR valve. It will give it some of the same issues besides #3 Hopefully this helps a bit... Good Luck

 

BLK:

Sorry to hear this issue is a stubborn one for you.

I know that the 5.7 engine does not have a TPS per say as the TB also performs this function. I believe it also performs the IAC function as well.
If you have swapped in a known good one, I think you can rule those out.

A clogged or bad converter usually affects the engine most while under load in the upper RPM ranges.
Unless it is totally clogged, the engine should idle fine. Disconnecting the exhaust is one way of ruling them out.

An easier way to diagnose a restricted exhaust is to attach a vacuum gauge to the engine, and then run the engine into the 3-4K RPM range.

An engine with a proper exhaust system will initially have the vacuum drop at first, but will then recover and build.
A restricted system will show the vacuum drop and then stay down due to the restriction.
The engine will generally lack power in the upper range as well.

What fuel pressure readings did you see? Were you able to get some readings with the engine under load?

Don