2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

Durango with P0456 code

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  #11  
Old 05-24-2013, 12:03 AM
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John:
Thanks a lot for mentioning your dilemma with the P0456. I have been chasing one on my 04 Durango for almost 2 years.
The only two pieces in the system that have not been replaced are the evap canister and the fuel pump housing.

I had read that one fellow finally remedied his P0456 when it was discoverd that the FP housing had a hairline crack which was allowing fumes to leak out.
My local dealer who is pretty darnd good spent the better part of 5 hours smoke testing the whole system, and could not find a leak!

My FSM says the leak test is only run when the ambient temp is in a certain range and the fuel tank level is between 15 and 85 percent.

Don
 

Last edited by n8ech; 05-24-2013 at 10:50 PM.
  #12  
Old 05-24-2013, 08:11 AM
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Well it's been 24 days now no CEL. The reason why I replace the Fuel Pump was because of hair line cracks on the top flange on and around where the O-ring sets and where the lock ring pushes down. The fuel burping has not happened, the last two times I filled her up. So far I'm doing well I’m almost certain that I have cured the problem. If is possible for you lower your fuel tank. Remove your fuel pump and conduct a visual inspection specially the area around the surface where the lock ring sets at. I will try to take pictures at my old FP and post for reference.
 
  #13  
Old 05-24-2013, 10:52 PM
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John:
I believe that is precisely what the other fellow I speak of ended up encountering!
Thanks so much for posting this, and if you could post a pic or two of what you found/saw that would be great!!!

Don
 
  #14  
Old 05-28-2013, 10:27 PM
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Here is one pic, top view.
 
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  #15  
Old 06-07-2013, 08:39 PM
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Its been over a month now and my CEL has not returned. I think my durango is cured.
 
  #16  
Old 06-09-2013, 12:46 PM
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John:
Thanks so much for the update.
I'm preparing to do as you did and drop the tank on my D to see what I find. I have driven it to 0 miles DTE so that I should have no more thsan 2-3 gallons of fuel at best to wrestle with when the tank comes down.

Were you able to remove the tank with the D wheels on the ground, or did you elevate one or both ends?

May I also ask what FP brand you went back in with? I have researched, and it looks like anywhere from $70 for imported to $300 for a reman OEM. I would prefer a NEW OEM pump, but I have not found any yet and fear what they would want for it!

Don
 

Last edited by n8ech; 06-27-2013 at 10:42 PM.
  #17  
Old 06-10-2013, 09:26 AM
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Don,

I have to remove the rear tire to make it easier also I lifted the D up about 8 inches so I could clear the tank. be careful when u drop it the fuel discharge line is kind of short and you don't want to kink it. I went with OEM from moparpartsamerica it cost about $245 but the core is $40. So it cost about $177 pluss Tax S&H but no more than $200 or so. I lift just the driver side. Good luck on your quest.
 
  #18  
Old 06-10-2013, 10:51 AM
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John:
Thanks for the advice and hints.
I will report back with my findings.

Don
 
  #19  
Old 06-23-2013, 09:58 PM
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Hi John and all:
I am happy to report that the new fuel pump assembly (RL135549AC) is installed and running great! I have not driven the D more than 30 miles or so, and have my fingers crossed as the CE light remains dark!

I have pics to document what I found, and will post them when I can. Suffice it to say that there were indeed cracks around the circumference of the top of the pump housing.
These cracks appear to have been caused by Chrysler's choice to use a very cheap metal for the FP lock ring.
You would not believe how much rust was in and around that ring. I soaked the thing several times with WD40 and PB Blaster in hopes I could remove it without damaging the teeth on the companion ring moulded onto the tank.
While I was successful there, the $20 ring itself pretty much came apart requiring me to make an unexpected 120 mile round trip to Dayton, Ohio to the dealer there who had one. (52110282AA)

For a vehicle that stickered for over 40K new, Chrysler could have spent a few more pennies and saved a number of us an early multi hundred dollar repair.
I believe a few folks have said that the rust was so bad on their tank that it too was replaced. Tank, pump, and labor could easily be a $1500 repair!!!!!
There was nothing wrong with the $200 pump itself. It ran fine. The rust from the cheap ring is the culprit here.

I hope to count myself as the third D owner to cure the dreaded P0456 by replacement of the fuel pump.
 
  #20  
Old 06-26-2013, 02:21 PM
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Don,

I'm glad to hear that you got the job done on your D. So far the CE light has remained dark on mine. I do agree on the rust there. I saw pine cones and pine needles on mine so I figured that the rust was from probably squirrel urine or some other body fluids. I do agree they should either protect or plate the lock ring better and for the price tag, they should do a better job there as well.

Jon
________________________________________________
1999 Durango SLT 4X4 5.2L Magnum Platinum (Mine Work)
2005 Durango SLT AWD 4.7L Magnum Black (Hers)

2005 Ram 1500 Laramie 4X4 5.7L Hemi Black (Mine play)

 


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