Most of the mechanics i have dealt with tell me to buy the parts or they will have to charge 30% over the cost if they have to buy the parts. They will lose money if they charged you what they paid for the part. Some may charge more or less depending on their policies.

 

The mechanic that did my ball joints gave me two options:

1. Buy my own ball joints from RockAuto. He would install them but not warranty them. I chose Raybestos at $30ea, as they were the best available at the time.

2. Buy ball joints from him for $90ea. He would warranty them for 3 years (free replacement). I assume he would install a good quality NAPA part so he wouldn't have to replace it for free.


I chose to buy my own and pay the mechanic for labor only.

-----

Thanks for the info on the locker. I was afraid it might be loud or hard to deal with. Sounds like it's alright. I will probably install the Aussie or the Spartan this spring.

 

I think the Lokka locker was less expensive because you have to buy a cross pin with the Spartan. The Lokka just uses the one you have. I think it's called a cross pin; correct me if I am wrong. I'm not sure about the Aussie. But price wise that could account for some of the cost difference.

The only stipulation in the installation instructions is that the cross pin you have must have less than two thousandths wear on it. The one in my rig, even with some miles on it without fluid, and 100K on it, was within two thousandths; just to give you a reference.

 

I finally have a pic.

 

My latest adventure has been flushing the radiator. I had that done at the dealer a few months after buying it. A bunch of months later the fluid wouldn't hold three ***** up.

So....clean and flush. Not a big deal other than at first I couldn't find a block plug. There's one up and to the right of the starter on the passenger side. 9/16 (or 11mm depending on where you hail from).

Locker is doing fine. I had big plans for 4 wheeling this spring but the rain didn't stop and my basement was flooded for 58 days straight. Yes, MOLD EVERYWHERE. So...I spent all summer doing construction. only update I can give is that it is still quiet, still working and every now and then if I decelerate just right and change lanes the drive line will clunk.

Also, don't forget there is a recall out on the D's for the drivers side air bag actuator. I just had mine done by the dealer today.

 

Wow, beautiful, where did you get that front bumper?

 

Rango226

Nice ride! I think you have me beat on the looks. Wow!

There is a company here called Hefty Fab Works. A truck rolled backwards into my Durango and bent the stock bumper. So I had this bumper created for me. It has a skid plate that goes from the bumper to the ?crossmember? underneath so to protect the radiator with 1/4" steel.

It is not winch worthy; just something to tug on with a recovery rope or something. I didn't really want a winch and the guy who did the work said he used his winch more for pulling everyone else out than himself so I saved some $ on not having it winch worthy. Plus the octagonal frame is probably not as strong. I paid $750 for the bumper and skid.

So the question is: Do your 33" tires rub at all? You are using spacers on the back?

I have trouble with people door dinging me so I am moving the door trim up; more pics coming.

I also added a new muffler: So loud it sets off car alarms Haa haaaaaa. I love it.

 

My tires don't rub at all. I cranked up the torsion bar to the max and no spacers In the back. Sometimes if I hit a bump too fast the tires will hit the fender/body, but that doesn't happen often. Some better off road shocks would probably do the trick.

 

Well, disaster strikes again. My window switch quit working again. I tried to get it to work again but the only result was the whole wiring harness in the door fried to a crisp. Prior to the BBQ the mirrors had been acting up, the rear doors would not unlock when the vehicle was placed in park and none of the window switches would go up or down.

I speculate there was a short in the wiring harness from WAY back when the trouble with the master door switch started.

Regardless I am bummed. And not a moment too soon after the TC shift motor went out (put a new one in just the week before the master window switch went out).

I've had to do quite a few repairs on this vehicle. I'd say most of them because I get in there and find stuff that the previous owner did not take care of. Well, recently found the exhaust manifold bolts let go and had an exhaust leak so that's not really a previous owner problem. Just a $700 repair.

I totaled up all my receipts from fixes, including paying myself $100 an hour or paying someone else and it totals like $10,000 over the past three years. The reviews were right; this is a money eating pig.

Not that I don't like the vehicle...when I step on the gas and with that new muffler pounding out those V8 notes...I start to fall in love again. Well, right up until I go to roll down the window or I try to use my passenger mirror to change lanes and find it showing nothing but clouds in the sky.

I remember now thinking "It's either the $22,000 100 Series Land Cruiser or the $10,000 Durango...shoot, for $10 grand I could buy two Dodges...". Well, looks like I did just that only I have only one broken Dodge to show for it.

Meh. My 94 Land Cruiser was the same way. It was an over built beast that sucked money from my wallet any chance it could get. Most of the time it was in the garage on jack stands waiting for some part; just like the Durango.

I'm laughing right now because I've already spent like $10K and it still isn't paid off! What a frigin nightmare. And I fell for it again....just one more repair and it'll be good to go.

Ohhhh, almost forgot. The Durango now does not want to move in reverse after I start it up. I usually let it idle on start up for about 30 seconds and then reverse. It goes nowhere for the first 4 or 5 seconds and then moves. What gives? (Let me guess, the tranny service I had two years ago caused some issue and now I'd need to pay another bunch o bucks to get it fixed right?)

 

I have the same transmission glitch. Sometimes, it takes 5-10 seconds to engage in reverse after sitting. This started to happen after I dropped the transmission pan and changed the fluid + both filters.

Problem was explained to me in two ways:

ONE, the torque converter has a drain in it, and when the TQ stops with the drain on the lower half of it's rotation, the TQ drains into the pain - thus requiring a few seconds to refill upon startup before the truck moves. Systemic problem with no repair (maybe an aftermarket TQ?).

TWO. the screw-in cartridge transmission filter leaks where it seals to the transmission body. When the truck sits, the fluid above the filter drains to the pan. It takes a few seconds for the fluid to pump through the system before the truck moves. Early Mopar filters and some aftermarket filters don't seal to the transmission body (There are some plastic fittings that crack or fail to seal. The new filter kit usually includes the threaded plastic tube and a plastic spacer. Many overlook that and just spin on a new filter, or accidentally double up the spacers). A new/improved cartridge filter and seal will fix it (requires dropping the transmission pan again). I used a WIX filter kit but I didn't change the plastic parts

I have maybe $3500 (not counting labor) in repairs, upgrades, etc after 18 months of ownership. A lot of that was baseline work (mostly things that any used car needs): tires, rotors and pads, shocks, ball joints, end links, plugs, fluids/filters, battery, window switch, grille, windshield cowl update, full-size spare, hitch & wiring, etc. Truck is solid and mostly trouble-free now.

The Durango is WAY cheaper than my Volvo V70R of the same vintage, but WAY more expensive than my wife's IS300 that has needed nothing in 15 years beyond wear items (tires, brakes, timing belt, fluids/filters).

Good luck.