2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

Hemi Froze, now fine? Worried...

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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 12:35 AM
  #11  
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The intake manifold was redesigned in 07 as well, an long with that giant cover over the engine. Does the redesigned intake solve this problem? Does anyone know if the 07 intake will work on an 04-06 Hemi?
 
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Old Mar 9, 2014 | 10:09 AM
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I took the engine cover off my 2007 Durango with the 5.7 to add a AEM Brute Force cold air intake without any problems for over five years.
FF
 
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Twmays
The intake manifold was redesigned in 07 as well, an long with that giant cover over the engine. Does the redesigned intake solve this problem? Does anyone know if the 07 intake will work on an 04-06 Hemi?
The 07 should work so long as you use your original intake manifold sensors/hook ups, they look to be physically the same.

There have not been as many random 07+ engines throwing rods that weren't earned the hard way since the cowl changes and the 08+ intake changes, meaning Chrysler quietly fixed the problem with those engine covers and cowl redesigns.
 

Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 10, 2014 at 10:04 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by fascistfaction
I took the engine cover off my 2007 Durango with the 5.7 to add a AEM Brute Force cold air intake without any problems for over five years.
FF
That's because your Durango has the cowl revision from the factory that eliminated most of the water run off and diverted it to a better spot (not on the motor) :/ . You are NOT immune to hydro locking, even Hemi's installed in Dodge Rams are at risk, but they are lesser known because they have a better cowl design than the Durango as far as water run off, you dive into a big enough puddle with your vehicle and you may find those limits. If I were you I'd still avoid puddles and eventually change my intake gaskets, because the intake uses the same design as the previous models and water from another source (puddles) can splash up onto the engine in that spot. Plus taking the stock intake housing off probably helps in NOT directing water towards those rear cylinders on the intake manifold where the water likes to pool up and sit on the heads next to the intake runners. Yes, even you with your revised cowl should still be worried and avoid puddles until you change intake gaskets, granted your chances are much lower than somebody else throwing a rod due to hydro locking, I would still consider it a red flag issue if you care about your Hemi.

So if you still want to keep on playing Russian Roulette with your Hemi keep saying how good its been for the last 5 years and avoid some puddles. The reason the Hemi's throw Rods still exists in the form of the intake gaskets not sealing over a period of time because they flatten out. Replacement used Hemi's can average $2500-$3000 for anything that's around 100,000 miles and they aren't very fun to install into a Durango...I've been there & done it. $20 set of intake gaskets vs $2500 motor plus engine install labor? you be the judge and do the math. Still feel great about 5 years? feel lucky instead.

I just bought an 04 Ram with a Hemi and I'm avoiding puddles like the plague until spring when I can change the gaskets!. And WHATEVER you do DON'T POWER WASH THE ENGINE!.
 

Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 10, 2014 at 10:06 AM.
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Old Mar 10, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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I do not have the Durango anymore...
 
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Old Mar 11, 2014 | 05:14 PM
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Default Should I also rebuild the heads?

I'm planning on replacing the intake gasket and change the cowl.

While I'm at it, should I send the heads to a machine shop to get worked over? At 120k miles I've heard of broken springs and changing springs to the 6.2 spring, etc. How long do Cylinder heads and the bottom end last on these? Someone else said once you start taking apart an aluminum engine it never goes back together leak free.

thoughts?
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jwnova99
I'm planning on replacing the intake gasket and change the cowl.

While I'm at it, should I send the heads to a machine shop to get worked over? At 120k miles I've heard of broken springs and changing springs to the 6.2 spring, etc. How long do Cylinder heads and the bottom end last on these? Someone else said once you start taking apart an aluminum engine it never goes back together leak free.

thoughts?
Total and complete bull$hit. First off, since the common use & implementation of MLS Head gaskets (Multi Layer Steel) on Chrysler products, along with proper block & head prep work procedures, head gasket problems on aluminum head & steel block engines are completely a thing of the past. Its kind of like how Dodge Neon's are known for head gasket problems yet my 98 Neon gets the $hit kicked out of it by me every time I'm in it, survived 17psi of boost and overheated due to radiator hose leak, driven for 30 miles on a 90 degree day pegged on H and yet has NEVER blown a head gasket and its still going strong at 268,000 miles!.

As for the heads, leave them on, 120,000 is nothing for mileage. If you are worried about the valve springs, all you have to do is take the valve covers off and change the springs to the upgraded spec one cylinder at a time, crank the engine to top dead center and work on just that cylinder so the valves don't drop into the engine.

The bottom end on these Hemi's are built to last, cross bolted mains and as stated before by Mopar Action Magazine the connecting Rods are 10x stronger than a small block Chevy.
 

Last edited by JoshSlash87; Mar 12, 2014 at 01:14 AM.
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:22 AM
  #18  
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Thank you Josh!
 
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Old Mar 12, 2014 | 09:49 AM
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Default Where to get the springs and what type.

Can anyone tell me where to get the springs and what the model number is? When people say 6.1 are they referring to the SRT Hemi springs? I look for springs on google all I find are used springs or OEM on Ebay and its not clear if that is the spring I need.

I also see people asking in several posts rather you need to change the exhaust and intake, but didn't see a response.
 
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