2005 Durango 5.7 4x4. Wife stops to get gas, turns engine off, fills the tank and engine wont start.
AAA tows her home. I put the code reader on it and there are no generic codes. There is a p0004 and p0522. First is fuel volume regulator control circuit. After investigating, nobody uses that code, and no one really knows what it means.
The second one is engine oil pressure sensor circuit low input. After research I checked the sender and it was not leaking oil, and the wiring looked fine. Both of these codes were old.
One thing I noticed is that I don't think I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key to the on position. To check if it's fuel, I sprayed starting fluid on the air cleaner and if I sprayed a lot of it, it seemed like it turned over faster but still didn't really try to start.
Is there a pressure valve on the fuel line to check for fuel to the injectors?
I checked the fuse to the pump and it's good.
Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

No takers?

 

UPDATE;


checked the fuel pressure at the schrader valve and there's no fuel. I don't hear the pump while laying under the truck with the wife activating the key.


Before I buy a pump, how would I check the relays when it only stays on for three seconds after turning the key back to on from start?


Is there a jumper wire I can cross to "hot wire" the pump?


thanks in advance.

 

You can find the wiring diagrams here http://www.bbbind.com/free_tsb.html
Fuel system is under Engine, subsystem Fuel Controls, first drawing in the list.

 

Here's what I found and what I did. Thank goodness the truck is running again! Also I'll share what I learned.
I had to work on my own so it was impossible to test the wiring at the pump. There's no way this worn out body is going to turn the key and get under the car before it times out. The truck has over 250G miles so if it's not the pump, it would be soon, so I bit the bullet and ordered one from Napa. I only name them because the unit I got made by Carter is life time guaranteed.
Some advice, when you watch the videos on youtube of the guy pulling a pump out of an 04 Durango, don't believe that stuff comes apart that easy. I watched videos countless times of how the different connectors were supposed to work, but they don't. They're stuck together and unless you're skinny arms Rob Lowe it's going to suck getting in there to pull them off.
Pull the driverside tire, put a jack under it to manipulate it up and down. get a small cordless driver with 1/4 drive adapter and two long extensions and a 7mm socket to get the gas filler hose clamp loose. Then hope you have some good, large, hook/picks because it's not wanting to come off. Also the vent tube connector has to be fought like trying to steal a doughnut from a fat kid. As you're reaching in there from the side of the car move the suspension up and down until you get those apart. You might have to drop the tank to get the filler hose off, don't worry it will come off if you used a large right angled pick and worked it around the hose tube.
At the front of the tank the evap stuff is a pain but try and get it all while you're in one spot. There are two hoses and an electric connection. You will have to use your hook to rip that little red lock out switch right out of the connector and it still wont want to come off. First use a little screwdriver and twist it until there is enough space inbetween the connector and it's socket to get a bigger screwdriver in there and then it will come off.
If you don't have a trans jack, do what I did, put a foot long piece of two by four on your jack pad and top it with a two foot by two foot piece of plywood so you don't cave your tank in. I had to do this the redneck way and I blocked the completely full gas tank up with a couple of pieces of fire wood on each end to keep me from knocking it off the jack while I was wrestling with the hoses on top. Yes, the pump quit working after my wife told the gas station attendant "fill it up". (you're not allowed to fill your own gas in Oregon) After topping it off so it would be extra painful, the pump committed suicide.
Get your wood blocks as high as you want them position your jack where you guess the center of gravity will be and loosen the tank straps. Eventually you'll go Rambo on them to get them out of the way so save time and just bend them out of the way first. Lower the tank until it rests on the blocks. Make sure you have enough room to snake your arm in. If you do, you're probably kinking your fuel line.
Follow the fuel lines down the body and loosen them from the little holders on the frame, you don't want to pinch that plastic unbendable fuel line on the fuel pump. While you're there get a GOOD and small light source on top of the tank and prepare to curse assorted holy things.
The videos show the guy just lightly pinching connectors and them jumping off their connections. Lies. While scraping skin off of the arm attempting to pinch the connector cram the other arm in their with a small screwdriver. Contort yourself until you can use the top corner of one eye to see the keepers jammed against the fuel pump tube. Pry the little keepers one at a time over the "washer" around the tube making sure you bang your forehead against the corner of your running board at least once. You will still have to kick with your legs and rip more skin off your arm to get it off but it will come off. The next raucous bag of pestilence is the electrical connector on the pump. Fortunately for satan they didn't put much of a lip on that little red keeper so being able to see it while you snake a hook and pick up there until you have to rip it all the way out of the connector. Make sure you have anyone you want to continue respecting your demeanor go into the house as your language and tantrums will be epic after discovering you have to get the little screwdriver in their to pry the connector off.
Now the tank is free, pull it out and tape off every hose opening. Flush the outside with the hose and nozzle set on stream. Even then dirt will be caked into nooks and crannies and it will get in your tank. Take the time scrub it with a brush and you'll discover what you thought was a flat tank was a dimple full of ancient dirt. Pay close attention to the retaining ring holding in the pump. There will be tons of little rocks and dirt packed into tiny little crevasses around the whole ring. Once it is completely clean, dry it off. Tip it so water stuck in grooves runs off. Wipe it dry again.
Get a big drift punch and put the big end on the retaining ring tab and hit the small end. You're not going for a knock out punch. It would be wise to take a picture on your smart phone before the pump is loose so you have no doubts about how it goes back in.
Watch the video and see how the tech removes the pump. Mine did NOT come out like that. It would not come out until I used the drift punch in a hole on the pump to make it smaller than the tank hole. When the retaining ring comes off, you'll be surprised to see the ring pop up in the air. The pump is spring loaded, I repeat, THE PUMP IS SPRING LOADED.
I cleaned and reused the flat green rubber seal. The new one was too small and round and I didn't trust it to seal off the pump. I cleaned it until it was perfect and put it back in it's groove. If you stretch it out while cleaning it you will be dismayed that it no longer wants to stay in it's groove, you stretched it.
Look into the opening the pump fits in. down in there off to the side you'll see the "seat" for the bottom of the fuel pump "bucket". Once you put the new pump in, you'll turn it and move it and fumble with it until you look at the old pump and see there are little tab slots in the pump bucket. You'll pull the pump out to look for the tabs but there isn't any, you forgot the pump is spring loaded. So put the pump back in, push in the hat until the springs collapse and hold it down. Put the clean retaining ring back on and twist it enough to engage the teeth on the tank. Get your drift punch and drive it home. Keep the tape on all of the tube openings. I also put a little sandwhich zip lock over the filler tube and twisty tied in on.
Before you put the tank back in, put the hangers back in their "t" slots and bend them further out of the way, don't feel guilty they'll bend right back. Use prybars with a little ply wood pad to lever the tank up enough to get a two by four under each side. Twist the two by until it's upright the long way. Put your pry bar under the tank and on the jack wheel to pry the tank up enough to put your fire wood under one end and repeat until your tank is back on top of two pieces on each side.
Again with the jack, manipulate the suspension until you can get your hands in their and put the filler hose back on, do this one first so the vent tube isn't in your way. Tighten the clamp down and connect the vent tube.
Make your way to the front of the tank and make sure your tank is lined up right and connect the hoses and one electrical connection. Now deal with the hose in the middle of the tank it should click back on easily.
Hope you put your little red tabs in before you slid the tank back. At this point youre 90% give yourself a yahoo! Back to the suck. Reconnect the electric. It's not on until the little red tab clicks down. Make sure your retaining straps are at least close their the notches in the tank that is made for them. Put the fuel pump hose back on.
Grab a good 18v battery a 1/2 drive adapter and a 15mm long socket. Jack the tank up, but don't crush it, you're going to have to fight the strap. Put the bolt on the driver, through the strap hole and manhandle the strap until it's close to the bolt hole and screw it down. REMEMBER you could cross thread it so pay attention. It is going to take a strong back to press that strap into place just press it in there and let'r rip. Torque the bolts down. Put the tire back on and you're the hero of the day.

 

Thank you for posting the follow up as it may help someone in the future.