2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

What the heck is going on? P0307,P0750,P0700, Limp Mode

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Old Nov 17, 2016 | 11:07 PM
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shelzmike
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Default What the heck is going on? P0307,P0750,P0700, Limp Mode

I have the weirdest, most aggravating problems with my wife's truck. She told me it barely had any power from a stop so I went to check it out.

Before I test drove it, I checked the codes. It had P0307 (Misfire, Cy. 7), P0750 (Shift Solenoid A, which was a "Pending" Fault), and P0700, which I think is just a general code from the powetrain asking the computer to show the faults.

I actually cleared all the faults and headed out on a test drive. Initially, you would have though nothing was wrong. It drove fine, like it normally does. No check engine lights, plenty of power, not in limp mode bc 1st gear was working fine.

One thing on this vehicle that has alluded me for several years and has gotten a little worse is that when accelerating, at around 35-40 mph, when the trans attempts to shift up a gear (like it is going into overdrive), it suddenly feels like it loses power and short of shutters a little bit. If I floor it, it drops down a gear and the power is good, until it tries to shift up again. Have never been able to figure this out. It never causes a code to fire right after it does this.

Oh, and the misfire has come and gone on that cylinder for a while now. #5 has also given me problems in the past, which is right in front of 7. It will cause a CEL, but then go away on its own after a day or 2 and stay gone for while, and come back.

Went to the auto parts store to get yet another coil pack (3rd in 2 years) and a plug. It was still driving fine. As a test, I decided to go on a road, speed limit 40 mph that starts out flat and straight and then gently rises at a small incline, nothing steep really. I put it in cruise control, just to see what would happen. At first, it was perfect. But then, when it got to the top of the hill and leveled out (right where it would go up a gear), it started a shutter, RPM's seemed to drop (almost like it shifted too soon) and it was quite bad until I took back control pressed on the gas and on it went.

Still no CEL or any other noticeable problems other than that shudder that just happened. After about a mile and a half at 25 mph, I came to a stop light. When pulling off, it was clearly in 2nd gear, limp mode I assume because there was no power hardly. Still no CEL or any other indications of anything. Pulled into gas station, stopped, pulled it down into 1st gear and it was suddenly back to "normal" but not for long. I stopped and put it back into Drive and suddenly got CEL and immediately checked them, same exact codes as above. All at the same time, seemingly.

I cleared the codes again, but this time it stayed in limp mode. No first gear, even when I shifted it down to 1st gear. Check engine lights stayed off though. Stopped to get some ice cream for the wife and daughter, went inside and was in there maybe 10 minutes at the most. When I got back in suddenly, all back to "normal". 1st gear was back again, no CEL, and was able to drive home without further incident.

So....I am at a loss of where to start here. Could the misfire cause the solenoid code..both times they are both present, even though the misfire has been present for quite a long time previously without causing the solenoid error.

one final thing, I checked the transmission fluid and it seemed to be slightly low, though I checked it in neutral running, but I hadn't yet driven the recommended 15 or so miles yet. It was below the bottom hole for the hot mark. I sure would appreciate any input. I of course, need to fix it, but don't want to just thrown money at it with the holidays coming up.

EDIT: You know, the more I think about it, the more I lean towards this being computer related. I have had so many recurrent issues over the past 4 years with this thing (I bought it used) and they never seem to resolve for that long and every single one, every one, has the computer in common. I still need to take it to the dealer to get the airbags replaced under the recall. I am thinking of having them flash it just so I at least know that it isn't something that simple. Good idea? Bad Idea? Wishful thinking?
 

Last edited by shelzmike; Nov 17, 2016 at 11:41 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2016 | 05:22 PM
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Not encouraging no one has any suggestions

Here is what I have done and it seems to have made a difference, though it could be a fluke maybe. Not sure.

I changed the #7 plug and coil (plug looked good, maybe a little hot, but there was a little small bit of oil on the threads).

Cleaned as many sensors as I could get of easily with electronics cleaner.

Pulled the cables from the battery. I discovered that the positive was very caked with heavy amounts of corrosion for some reason. I cleaned it all off good and replaced the positive wire terminal. Left the battery disconnected for awhile. I guess my thought was to reset everything.

Took it out for a test drive, but I did turn on tow to turn off over drive as I believe the stuttering I mentioned in my last post has to do with OD. It has always sort of done that even before these problems. I am cautiously saying this, but it drove very well and I got no CEL nor limp mode. Town driving mostly 45 mph max/stop and go. I plan on taking out in a bit and going on a longer drive to heat it up a little more. If I am this lucky, I will absolutely count my stars and buy a lottery ticket as well.

One other thing I found that I am sure is unrelated, but strange nontheless. The first two bottom valve cover bolts (closest to front) looked like someone had loosened them completely. I tightened those back down, but this was clearly at least one of my sources of oil leak.
 
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Old Dec 12, 2016 | 05:13 AM
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Hey shelzmike. I think it sounds like we have similar, yet different issues. My 2006 Limited has given me problems on and off since I bought it almost a year ago. I'll be driving along perfectly fine, no issues. Then, the truck will stutter, go into fail safe, and shutoff. This is extremely annoying, especially with all the stupidass round-a-bouts in my area. If I pull over, turn the ignition off, wait a second, and then start it back up; I can drive away perfectly fine. It doesn't do it until the truck is up to operating temp. The only codes I've ever gotten to come up after this happens P0340 (for the camshaft sensor) and the code for the crankshaft sensor.

I replaced both sensors, and inspected all of the wiring under the hood that I could. I read that low battery voltage could cause this issue, as both sensors run on a 5 volt reference. Tested the battery, tested fine. Tested the charging system, the alternator failed then passed then failed again. So, replaced alternator. Didn't have another issue for four or five months, and this is my daily driver. Now having the same issue again as it started to get cold. Tested the battery, it passed but showed signs of being at the end of its lifecycle. So I replaced the battery...

Issue still present. I'm kind of at a loss as to what to do.
 
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Old May 30, 2024 | 10:51 AM
  #4  
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Default Any luck

hey bud my partner seems to be having the same problem I have changed the spark plugs befor went with a cheaper brand and it blew 2 off them straight away so replaced all with decent but didn’t get rid of the problem.. has slowly been getting worse and more frequent…

have replaced trans filter and oil and bled line of air as well as a few other things but was starting to think was air or electrical related…


Originally Posted by shelzmike
Not encouraging no one has any suggestions

Here is what I have done and it seems to have made a difference, though it could be a fluke maybe. Not sure.

I changed the #7 plug and coil (plug looked good, maybe a little hot, but there was a little small bit of oil on the threads).

Cleaned as many sensors as I could get of easily with electronics cleaner.

Pulled the cables from the battery. I discovered that the positive was very caked with heavy amounts of corrosion for some reason. I cleaned it all off good and replaced the positive wire terminal. Left the battery disconnected for awhile. I guess my thought was to reset everything.

Took it out for a test drive, but I did turn on tow to turn off over drive as I believe the stuttering I mentioned in my last post has to do with OD. It has always sort of done that even before these problems. I am cautiously saying this, but it drove very well and I got no CEL nor limp mode. Town driving mostly 45 mph max/stop and go. I plan on taking out in a bit and going on a longer drive to heat it up a little more. If I am this lucky, I will absolutely count my stars and buy a lottery ticket as well.

One other thing I found that I am sure is unrelated, but strange nontheless. The first two bottom valve cover bolts (closest to front) looked like someone had loosened them completely. I tightened those back down, but this was clearly at least one of my sources of oil leak.
 
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