2006 Durango LTD. No power at B/L SW pin 1 (gy/rd)... lights(brake) won't work and won't come outta park. Fuse # 25 in PDC good. Have power at backside of PDC and gy/rd wire going into fuse panel inside the kick panel, but not at switch, Fut the Wuck?? Anybody know where it goes after that?? and, or, if it feeds anything else(Accesories?).. I'm thinkin there's a bad(corroded) splice somewhere after the fuse block, but b4 the switch??? looks like it goes deep up into dash after that......HELP

...just found schematic online that shows it going thru "JCT BLOCK" anyone know if that's the fuse box or the connector block way up above the pedals?? cuz I don't see a gy/rd wire in that thing.

 

Ok, tested for voltage at the JCT BLOCK(at this point I'm assuming they mean the interior fuse box). Got power going in on gy/rd wire(large blade terminal near top left of connector) but no voltage coming out on gy/rd wire(small blade terminal at apx middle/right side of connector).... pulled fuse box out and took it apart... found light corrosion on the back of the pc board, cleaned it, smeared dielectric gel all over it prevent any more corroson, re-assembled and re- installed....... no difference. Since there's prolly no schematic anywhere(even at dealership level) of the pc board, unless I'm missing something I'll venture a guess that my "JCT BLOCK" is bad. Any Chrysler techs seen this b4 , or anything I may have missed??

Thanx

Post edit.............thinkin bout just jumpin across these two wires, anyone know what else I might be leaving out if I do this?? Fuse (#25) in PDC only says BRAKE/JB FEED..........gonna check continuity with B/L switch pin 1 first...........

 

Checked continuity from (suspected) pin out(gy/rd) to pin 1(b/l switch) =0 ohms. jumpered the 2 gy/rd wires at JCT BLOCK(fuse panel) connector...... VIOLA!! brake lights work!!


Synopsis.....(hope this can help someone else too)


No brake lights-won't come out of park

Fuse #25 in PDC =OK

No power on Pin 1 at brake light switch

Found corrosion inside back of fuse panel behind left kick panel

Suspect bad board(fuse panel(AKA=JCT BLOCK) inside left footwell) due to corrosion/internal open.....


PROBABLE CAUSE = Water intrusion from leaking/overrun draintube for sunroof(apparent common problem with these trucks w/sunroof)


FIX= Jumpered for now...looking into getting new fuse panel

UPDATE= Put a new(used on E-Bay) fuse panel in.......dut,dut dada.....same problem
o well snowmobile season is here, so I'm done Fookin w/it,,it's been.... ahem... "profesionally jumpered" Might try a NEW"new" fuse block in the spring, but I haven't seen anything detrimental from runnin it this way, so....maybe not

 

Did you figure it out yet ? I have the same issue with my 2004 Dodge durango 5.7 .Thank you for some help in this issue .

 

never did figure out the failure. I replaced the fuse block with another used one and had the same problem(either both fuse blocks had the same fault or it's outside of the block) anyway I jumpered the gy/rd wires and everything's workin and no problems since...

 

I ended up doing the same thing the gray /red wire that went to the brake switch .I thinking there a short in that cluster of wires back behind the light switch where all those wire s go up ,& over that metal bracket so I by passed it
& Got my brake lights back .Then I could not get them to shut off inless I pulled the brake pedal up with my hand .the pedel would touch the brake switch but there no ajustment .So I took a flat solid washer & used double sided tape and taped it to pedal so when the pedal come back up it pushed the switch button & lights went out .just thought I would share with u what I found & hope it helps someone out .also the kick panel fuse box C1 & C2 were corrided real bad clean them plugs & the fuse holder board with 91 percent rubbing alcohol & that was I think the Abs light ,engine light came on in the dash cluster ok .thanks for your help .be safe .

 

If your brake lights wouldn't shut off, my guess is that the brakelight switch needs to be re-adjusted. It's supposed to be a one time(at initial installation) thing, but you can unlock the plunger and pull it back out to the pre-installed setting. 1st take the switch out, Twist the plunger (I forget which direction), pull it back out to full extension, then twist back to make it ready for re-installation, re-install and reconnect wiring. Then, the 1st time you depress the brake pedal, it should adjust itself to the proper setting..

Also, it sounds like you may have a loose/mis-aligned connector at the gauge cluster. I was have tons of weird symptoms till I found that one. Easy fix, pull it out, clean, dielectric grease on pins, and make sure it's FULLY seated and locked( you might have to yank a little play in the harness, mine was very tight and likely the reason it worked it's way loose from the cluster...

Hope this helps