2nd Gen Durango 2004 - 2009

air blowing hot but compressor is running and low-side is right charge

Old Oct 20, 2020 | 04:49 PM
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Default air blowing hot but compressor is running and low-side is right charge

I have a 2007 Durango Limited that has 246K miles on it, and of course we aren't probably more than a year from finally sending it to the grave. I have had a small leak in the A/C system for years. They think it is behind the dash in the coil but never saw any dye anywhere. So it leaks out to where it is warm but still a little charge in 2-3 months. So I just top it off every 2-3 months and it is cheaper than paying to get the dash pulled out and the coil replaced and not even guarantee that fixes it.

I have had some the doors get stuck (vent, defrost, floor) but more often than not they work and the outside vs inside air always works too and sounds different when hitting the button. Now I turn on the air and the low port is at the right pressure for the temp and I get hot air with everything set manual and A/C on Low settings for temp. Inside air is warmer than outside air and that makes sense given the outside air was 70 degrees when I was testing it. The A/C compressor kicks on and off when pressing the button as well so that is all working.

It seems something is wrong and the heat is coming on instead of the A/C even though the A/C button is on and the snowflake appears. I can run the heat up to 85 and it gets hotter though, so obviously it is not completely hot air.

So what do you all thing is going on here? I'm hoping this is an easy fix, or I can at least make an easy jerry rig of it to get me by till we get rid of it.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by slickdaddy96
I have a 2007 Durango Limited that has 246K miles on it, and of course we aren't probably more than a year from finally sending it to the grave. I have had a small leak in the A/C system for years. They think it is behind the dash in the coil but never saw any dye anywhere. So it leaks out to where it is warm but still a little charge in 2-3 months. So I just top it off every 2-3 months and it is cheaper than paying to get the dash pulled out and the coil replaced and not even guarantee that fixes it.

I have had some the doors get stuck (vent, defrost, floor) but more often than not they work and the outside vs inside air always works too and sounds different when hitting the button. Now I turn on the air and the low port is at the right pressure for the temp and I get hot air with everything set manual and A/C on Low settings for temp. Inside air is warmer than outside air and that makes sense given the outside air was 70 degrees when I was testing it. The A/C compressor kicks on and off when pressing the button as well so that is all working.

It seems something is wrong and the heat is coming on instead of the A/C even though the A/C button is on and the snowflake appears. I can run the heat up to 85 and it gets hotter though, so obviously it is not completely hot air.

So what do you all thing is going on here? I'm hoping this is an easy fix, or I can at least make an easy jerry rig of it to get me by till we get rid of it.

It sounds like the blend door is sticking. I've had cars do that in the past. A little door stops air from blowing over the heater core. When it sticks, you either don't get any heat or you get it whether you want it or not.
 
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Old Oct 21, 2020 | 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by ol' grouch
It sounds like the blend door is sticking. I've had cars do that in the past. A little door stops air from blowing over the heater core. When it sticks, you either don't get any heat or you get it whether you want it or not.
So I think there are two blend doors correct? One for the Rear A/C on the back right trim panel and one behind the dash for the front one. What if I am getting hot air in both rear and front A/C? I can't imagine both blend doors breaking at the same time? Would that lend to it being more of an electrical problem? Is there a fuse or relay that controls these actuators and doors?
 
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