2000 2.7 starting problem
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Brampton
2000 2.7 starting problem
i am speaking on behalf of a friend, she has a problem with her intrepid, it's a 2000, a 2.7 engine, sorry i have no idea what model it is so far as base or whatnot
problem is was orginally she would be driving, and the engine would stop turning over, this happened for a awhile and then went away, now her problem is if she gets into the car she can't start it unless she uses the power locks to unlock all the doors, then lock em, unlock them, and finally lock them. only after this combination the car will start.
she took it to the dealer and they said not to "waste" that much money into it, but she really wants it fixed and i don't blame her
thanks everyone
p.s. if you have a question towards the problem, it might take me awhile to find a reponse
problem is was orginally she would be driving, and the engine would stop turning over, this happened for a awhile and then went away, now her problem is if she gets into the car she can't start it unless she uses the power locks to unlock all the doors, then lock em, unlock them, and finally lock them. only after this combination the car will start.
she took it to the dealer and they said not to "waste" that much money into it, but she really wants it fixed and i don't blame her
thanks everyone
p.s. if you have a question towards the problem, it might take me awhile to find a reponse
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Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 916
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RE: 2000 2.7 starting problem
Does she have the SKIS (Sentry Key Immobilizer System)? Is there a VTSS light on the dash? Is the key she using an original key, or a re-cut key? (If it is a SKIS enabled car, you need the original keys because they contain a transponder. You can't use a key cut at ACE hardware).What is the blinking light on the dash doing before entry, after entry, when the engine w/n start & after the cycling of the locks? Also does the horn beep (and how many pulses)any time? Will it not start only after the doors have been locked, or will it not start regardless of the locking of the doors? Also try manually locking the doors, not via the remote or even the “door lock switchâ€; just push all the buttons manually. Doing this will override the system.
If you can't tell, I am leaning toward one of the anti-theft systems! These answers can help to determine where the problem is , but the best way is have a dealer (or anyone with a DRB scan tool, but unfortunately, this is an expensive tool for Chryslers and mostly a dealer tool), test the system with the DRB. The BCM is where the anti-theft system resides. It could be malfunctioning or if SKIS equipped, the key may be malfunctioning, also the key sensor located in the car. Maybe even one of the locks, even the trunk lock. If the alarm thinks someone tried to break in, you can't start it. It should notify the owner, with three beeps of the horn, if a break in occurred (or the system sensed one due to a faulty switch).
The shut-down during driving may have been related, it's hard to say for sure as the problem is not occurring now.
As for the dealers comment about wasting money, what if it’s only a key transponder going bad? (if SKIS enabled) A new key or a new car, hum, I don’t know if I’d go back to that service shop. A quick scan of the system would see quite a bit and shouldn’t cost over 30 min of time/labor. Was this even tried?
Kurt
If you can't tell, I am leaning toward one of the anti-theft systems! These answers can help to determine where the problem is , but the best way is have a dealer (or anyone with a DRB scan tool, but unfortunately, this is an expensive tool for Chryslers and mostly a dealer tool), test the system with the DRB. The BCM is where the anti-theft system resides. It could be malfunctioning or if SKIS equipped, the key may be malfunctioning, also the key sensor located in the car. Maybe even one of the locks, even the trunk lock. If the alarm thinks someone tried to break in, you can't start it. It should notify the owner, with three beeps of the horn, if a break in occurred (or the system sensed one due to a faulty switch).
The shut-down during driving may have been related, it's hard to say for sure as the problem is not occurring now.
As for the dealers comment about wasting money, what if it’s only a key transponder going bad? (if SKIS enabled) A new key or a new car, hum, I don’t know if I’d go back to that service shop. A quick scan of the system would see quite a bit and shouldn’t cost over 30 min of time/labor. Was this even tried?
Kurt
