i have a 2000 chrysler concorde and i've read the torque converter lockup switches for the dodge trucks (ground the orange and black wire).
is this orange/black wire the same for concorde and intrepid?

and does anybody know what the shift pattern is for the concorde/intrepid?

i've watched the tachometer between rpm changes and each time the needle drops 300rpm's. so i dont know if the transmission is shifting or if the torque converter is locking up.

afterall.. it is the 'overdrive pressure switch sense' that is turning the torque converter lockup on/off correct?

 

The low/reverse solenoid controls the converter clutch after the solenoid switch valve moves.

 

so if i ground that solenoid.. the torque converter clutch will engage?

what makes the solenoid switch valve move?

funny, after i've been reading up on torque converter clutches.. i think i am feeling some shudder at/around 45mph-50mph.
just barely feeling it through the steering wheel no matter if the road is smooth.

i'm going a little nuts realizing how bad the 'is' is on my engine to transmission energy transfer.
thinking about what it is like to play with the gas peddle while the transmission is in overdrive.. and then coming to terms with the transmission not receiving all the energy that the engine can produce on a daily basis
well, the gas peddle is becoming unacceptable.

i almost want a centrifigul clutch like on all the mini-bikes and go carts.

it seems like i'm never gonna be able to throw myself into the seat with this concorde until i lock the torque converter up.
if i want any torque now-a-days, i've gotta throw the engine up past 4k rpm and that wastes loads of gas and loads of piston rings.. possibly engine bearings and not to forget the heads.

maybe if some of the rice guys knew that their torque converter clutch would help pull things along.. they wouldnt be revving their engines up to 12k-14k rpm.

i dont wanna go fast.. i wanna throw myself into my seat at the flip of the gas peddle
it only takes like 5mph to do that!!
if i bought a truck.. my gas would need to be filled once a week instead of once every two weeks, ya know?

 

You can't ground the wire to engage the converter. The trans will go into limp in the second you do. Change the trans fluid and use mopar atf+4. These cars don't really have tc shudder issues. Are you shure your not getting a misfire?

 

i'm quite positive it isnt misfire..

i have brand new coil packs on top of the spark plugs (4-5 months old)
the engine idles fine
the engine takes off fine (no hesitation)
and the frequency of the shudder that i've felt remains consistant regardless of an rpm fluctuation (i'll double check this though)

about 2 nights ago i started to hear a thud sometimes when coming to a stop.. i first thought maybe my power inverter under the hood was loose and causing the noise.. but i checked the inverter and it is sitting in there fine.

tonight i heard a thud again.. but this time it was louder.
so since the noise was louder, i think the passenger ball joint is giving up.
and that would also explain the mild shudder i felt.
i doubt the passenger would notice the shudder.. it is THAT soft.

i'm starting to lose hopes for driving this car as an enthusiast.
if there is no way to manually lockup the converter clutch.. has anybody re-flashed their computer with a program incentive that requires 92/93 octane?
i'd like to know if that spices things up enough to tickle my craving.

my original intentions was to make this 4dr a sound quality competitor.
but i was hoping to make the engines performance personality have enough torque to scoot me, the sound system, and a few buddys around.

the car computer has really taken onto my soft peddle driving style.
because when i punch the gas now-a-days, the engine just revs up and runs lean which wastes gas.
the rpms shoot up but the power associated with all that energy is completely lost.. it is like exciting a dudd.
but the low-end torque is still there kinda.
the amount of power loss at the low-end and at the mid/high-end have changed at an uneven ratio.
i suspect this is the 'learning' computer doing it's thing.

when i test drove the car..
there was throttle response despite where the gas peddle was at. (except for the upper 65% and higher)
if even i could get it to drive like that again.. i'd be more enthusiastic about driving the car.
although.. i am getting much much much better gas mileage compared to when i drove the car home.
the needle on the tank seems to move 3x slower now compared to when i first bought it.

i had the compression checked during the summer and they came back within spec of the repair book.

as of now.. this slush box feels like it has an attention deficit disorder.

so i guess so much for an improvement that would have costed less than $10?