2000 Intrepid problems
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From: Omaha, Nebraska
2000 Intrepid problems
I have a 2000 Intrepid that my mom handed down to me after she grounded my sister from driving her cars forever!!! My mom gave it to her in pristine condition. Less than a year later the front fenders and bumper are messed up and a whole bunch of other things are wrong too so I was hoping you guys could help with some of the problems. Ok my sister was driving it for about 7 months where it was running fine and everything. Then she met her boyfriend who decided it would be a good idea to put subwoofers in the car. Here is what has been screwed up since then,
1. The passenger door lock doesnt always lock fine and buzzes when you unlock it. ( This is the door he ran the wire from the subs to the battery through as it went along the floor and through the fender).
2. Drivers side winshield wiper doesnt work (is it a fuse or the motor)?
3. When you go over a bump it sounds like the whole back end is gonna fall off like it is a big kuklunk sound.
4. Last thing is that everytime you accelerate the car wont go past 3000Rpms otherwise it starts to do a wierd revving thing. I have been told it is the alternater and my mom thinks it is the transmission.
All help is appreciated! Also does the wheel well just pop out or is it some sort of screw? Thanks!
1. The passenger door lock doesnt always lock fine and buzzes when you unlock it. ( This is the door he ran the wire from the subs to the battery through as it went along the floor and through the fender).
2. Drivers side winshield wiper doesnt work (is it a fuse or the motor)?
3. When you go over a bump it sounds like the whole back end is gonna fall off like it is a big kuklunk sound.
4. Last thing is that everytime you accelerate the car wont go past 3000Rpms otherwise it starts to do a wierd revving thing. I have been told it is the alternater and my mom thinks it is the transmission.
All help is appreciated! Also does the wheel well just pop out or is it some sort of screw? Thanks!
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a 2000 with 2000 problems huh?
Well, for the door lock it is a sign the lock mechanism is wearing out. You can clean it with some light lube if it is dirty, but aside form that replacement is in its' future.
For the wipers they are run by one fuse, one switch, one motor. The motor runs a couple of arms that move the wiper arms. If the wiper arm is loose it will slip or just sit there. So if one arm does move and the other doesn't, then you need to tighten it. Also check the linkage that goes from the motor to the arms.
Getting a clunk over a bump can be a number of things. Sometimes as simple as the spare tire bouncing around, other things can be something loose on the suspension. Check the junk in your trunk, so to say and make sure you fasten down what you can. If you still get it then put the back end of the vehicle up on jack stands and do a visual inspection underneath for anything that is loose. Check everything from the fuel tank, rear suspension, to the wheel assemblies. Try moving things around and look for play.
AS far as your issue when reaching 3000 rpms and the engine loping, 3000 is quite a bit, and can be a sign you have a lead foot. If your vehicle shifts through the gears without trouble, with no slipping, then your transmission should be fine. Now if you are at highway speed going say 70 mph and your engine gets up to 3000 rpm without your speed increasing and the engine does this, it may be a sign that your overdrive is having issues or your final gear is slipping. It is always recommended that you change your fluid and filter for your transmission. If that doesn't help you may need to bring it in to a shop to have them road test and diagnose it for you. You can turn off your overdrive and see if it cures it as well.
For the wipers they are run by one fuse, one switch, one motor. The motor runs a couple of arms that move the wiper arms. If the wiper arm is loose it will slip or just sit there. So if one arm does move and the other doesn't, then you need to tighten it. Also check the linkage that goes from the motor to the arms.
Getting a clunk over a bump can be a number of things. Sometimes as simple as the spare tire bouncing around, other things can be something loose on the suspension. Check the junk in your trunk, so to say and make sure you fasten down what you can. If you still get it then put the back end of the vehicle up on jack stands and do a visual inspection underneath for anything that is loose. Check everything from the fuel tank, rear suspension, to the wheel assemblies. Try moving things around and look for play.
AS far as your issue when reaching 3000 rpms and the engine loping, 3000 is quite a bit, and can be a sign you have a lead foot. If your vehicle shifts through the gears without trouble, with no slipping, then your transmission should be fine. Now if you are at highway speed going say 70 mph and your engine gets up to 3000 rpm without your speed increasing and the engine does this, it may be a sign that your overdrive is having issues or your final gear is slipping. It is always recommended that you change your fluid and filter for your transmission. If that doesn't help you may need to bring it in to a shop to have them road test and diagnose it for you. You can turn off your overdrive and see if it cures it as well.
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engine
With the whole engine thing I am in high school and I normally drive an IROC-Z Camaro around most of the time so I am used to being able to go fast when I want to. The Intrepid when I drive it by the time it gets to 3000 it is only doing about 15 and that is with barely pressing the gas pedal and I know when I have a lead foot because when I do punch it it hits 3000 in about 2-3 seconds. Which by that time in my camaro Im doin about 35 or 40 not 5-10. Also where would I tighten the wiper arm at? Do I have to remove that black plastic piece or is it an actual place on the wiper where I have to? How do I get to the locking mechanism? Do you know how to remove the wheel well???
Thanks
Thanks
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Well simple things first I guess.
Yes, that black plastic trim covers the wiper arm assembly. Before pulling the wiper arms and washer lines, mark the position of the arms so they are lined up right when you put them back on. They have a release clip for removing them.The motor is mounted on the passenger side under it, and it drives the control arms that move back and forth. If just the drivers side isn't working then watch that linkage and look for where it may just be hanging free.
For the door lock you will have to remove the door panel. Make sure you put the window up all the way first. Pry up the door switch cover, where the lock/window switch is, and remove the screws under it and unplug the switch. If it is a manual window crack you will need to remove it, it has a clip on the back of it, so a tool may be needed. remove any other screws you see around the edge of the panel. Next grasp the panel securely and pull up quickly to detach it from the door. Now disconnect the door handle lock rod, that is a plastic retainer on it that you spin away from the rod then it comes out. Unplug any remaining electrical connectors and put the panel aside. You will be able to follow the lock linkage to the solenoid to check it. It gets voltage to one pin when locking and the other for unlocking. If it is getting good voltage then you should replace it.
The wheel wells, or wheelhouse and fender splash shields are held in place by small screws and push-in fasteners. Some of the splash guards may have a wiring harness running along them, so be sure to remove their fastener before tugging it from the vehicle.
Yes, that black plastic trim covers the wiper arm assembly. Before pulling the wiper arms and washer lines, mark the position of the arms so they are lined up right when you put them back on. They have a release clip for removing them.The motor is mounted on the passenger side under it, and it drives the control arms that move back and forth. If just the drivers side isn't working then watch that linkage and look for where it may just be hanging free.
For the door lock you will have to remove the door panel. Make sure you put the window up all the way first. Pry up the door switch cover, where the lock/window switch is, and remove the screws under it and unplug the switch. If it is a manual window crack you will need to remove it, it has a clip on the back of it, so a tool may be needed. remove any other screws you see around the edge of the panel. Next grasp the panel securely and pull up quickly to detach it from the door. Now disconnect the door handle lock rod, that is a plastic retainer on it that you spin away from the rod then it comes out. Unplug any remaining electrical connectors and put the panel aside. You will be able to follow the lock linkage to the solenoid to check it. It gets voltage to one pin when locking and the other for unlocking. If it is getting good voltage then you should replace it.
The wheel wells, or wheelhouse and fender splash shields are held in place by small screws and push-in fasteners. Some of the splash guards may have a wiring harness running along them, so be sure to remove their fastener before tugging it from the vehicle.