So I have a blown 2.7 sittin in my driveway. My mech thinks something went in the bottom end. Don't know what exactly. The car will actually drive idle still, and drive enough to move it around in the drive way. I know basic mechanic stuff, but want to learn more. So this summer, I'm thinking about rebuilding my 2.7 myself, and selling the car for some money, (I have a different car now. The intrepid has been sitting for over a year now) I figure parts will be good deal less than what I'd be able to sell the car for afterwards. Anyways, wish my basic maintenance knowledge, and a repair manual....do you think I will be able accomplish this? Will I need to pull the engine to do this? Basically, what am I gettin myself into.

 

Yes, you have to pull the engine. And even if you do all the assembly yourself, an overhaul kit and machine work will run you about $2,500. Add another $500 if the crank is shot. These 2.7's aren't cheap to work on. You probably will lose money trying to fix it to sell it, honestly.

Best bet is to find a junkyard engine and stab it. Can probably find one for under $1,500 already pulled.

 

Thanks, that's exactly what I needed to know. Disappointing, but none the less, what I needed. Do you have an idea about what the 3.2 engines are running now a days? And if that route would be a plausible option.

 

I rebuilt a 2.7 for under $500. crank kit from Napa (crank and bearings) was $200, 2 head gaskets $50, other misc parts, definitely had under $500 in it. I found a cool part that bolts to the passenger head that prevents the timing chain from ever having slack ($30)

 

That's not a rebuild, that's a "replace as few parts as necessary to make it run"

The timing chain and tensioners alone are $490 retail. You need basically everything in this narrowed search list to do a proper overhaul (plus things like spark plugs, fluids, other sundries):

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Res...e=16407+NValue

Then typical machine shop charges:

Mill heads: ~$60/ea. ($120)
Resize rods: ~$15/ea ($90)
Machine crank and balance rotating assembly: ~$250
Clean block, bore and hone, align hone main journals: ~$300

And if you can't re-lap the valves and install seals yourself, you're looking at another $200 for a valve job.

Machine shop fees for a rebuild done the right way typically run $800-$1000 for V-6 and V-8 engines if you do all the disassembly and reassembly yourself.

Basically, what I'm saying is that while you could do something like what sapporo did, You risk longevity, and it probably won't be nearly as smooth running as it was on account of the rotating assembly not being balanced.

 

my repair lasted 4 years and still going, 70,000 miles on my repair. owner didn't want to spend your crazy prices. and most of what you listed is not necessary. Especially resize rods. you CANNOT resize powder rods!!! do you know how rods are resized? they remove the rod bolts, grind a little material off the cap and rod then hone the bore to a perfect circle... you CANNOT do this procedure on cracked powder rods. Valve jobs are pretty much a thing of the past with todays engines. stainless valves, hardened seats.. we're just not seeing any problems with valve sealing. nobody balances cranks on street engines!

ground crank with bearings under $200 at napa, why spend $250 to have one ground and then buy the bearings too?
you CANNOT bore the 2.7!!!

 

To be honest, I had more in mind of what sapporo is talking about. Not a complete over hall, just fix what's broken.I mean techically it still runs and drives. Sounds like it's coming apart when I do though.

 

I'm not saying you can't get away with that. Hell, I've dropped oil pan, carefully sanded rod journals down and put undersize bearings on for people who absolutely did not want to buy or rebuild the engine. And it worked.

And no, you don't always have to do all those steps. But they're what's part of a true rebuild. Most of the "rebuilds" I've done for folks that skipped all the machine shop steps and major parts replacements were just freshen-up's; The engines didn't have major problems, just kinda tired. For those, new rod and main bearings, rings, oil pump, hone the bores, lap the valves, and all new seals and gaskets. And if you're reusing the rotating assembly, you don't need to balance.

But when I do one for my vehicles, I don't cut corners. And yes, I do full balances on them. To me, there's nothing more irritating than an engine with a vibration that could've been eliminated for a couple hundred bucks during the build. When I was a kid, I slapped new speed pro pistons in my Shelby Daytona (in the car), no balance. There was a noticeable vibration afterward.

All that said, for most customers that have an engine failure, a good used engine is far more economical than rebuilding, and I've been less than impressed with most comercially remanufactured engines. I just recently went through quite the charade with a 4.3 Vortec that was one such critter. Local rebuilder, quoted the boss cheaper than Jasper, Engine Dynamic, etc. Engine started knocking within 20 minutes. Took it out, gave it back, they "built" it again, this time it was quiet for almost a half hour. Turns out they never align-honed the main journals, and it wasted the main bearings that fast. Now, that is particularly important with the weak block of the 4.3 Vortec. But you get my point. Good salvage engines tend to be lower in cost and longer lasting than commercial rebuilds, which are often done on the cheap. And that means skipping steps.

 

the #1 failure of replacement 4.3 engines is the installer not replacing or flushing the remote oil filter lines. which wipes out the mains.

It's great and wonderful that every engine you rebuild you are doing to race blueprinting specs. for the OP this is a ridiculous waste of money.

Based on your statements, you are not a professional engine builder. The things your staying are statements found in magazines articles on "how to build an engine". Heck I build a lot of race engines and don't do all the blueprinting you're saying must be done. You're directing the OP to building a NASCAR engine.

Right now I'm building 4 race 2.2/2.5 engines in 3 different configurations. 1 is getting a 2.5 crank, with 2.5 long rods in a common block and I'm using 2.3 ford Duratec pistons. another is a common block with 2.5 crank with eagle rods and PT cruiser 2.4 pistons. 3rd engine 2.2 forged crank, turbo rods, Wiseco pistons and 4th 2.2 cast crank stock rods with KB pistons. then one of these short blocks is getting a Neon head, but I haven't decided which one.

and you still never answered my question to you about your Shelby!!

 

I never flush them.

I've installed literally dozens of 4.3's and mandate [i][b]replacement[b][i] of Radiator and both pairs of oil lines as part of the job. I've yet for a customer to decline those items when I explain the stakes. I also won't reuse intakes that've been whiz-wheeled or otherwise improperly cleaned on the mating surface.

I'm sure you'll disagree with me on that sort of stuff, too, but the only engines I've ever had to warranty were on account of a manufacturing defect, such as th 2.8 GM in an old rodeo I got from Jasper that would seize when it got hot, run again when it cooled. And I haven't had a used engine I installed fail to this day.

I don't do a complete blueprint on them. Just rotating assembly balance. To me, the $200 or so is worth it. I also often have them internally balanced so I can use neutral balance converters or flywheels.

No, I'm not a career builder. I'm sure you've built many more engines than I have. I don't see where that means you can dismiss everything I say, though.

I don't recall. What was the question?