Help with 01 2.7
2.7 trep that i just bought with 80k miles, cold starts fine, runs fine. When i drove it for a longer period then goes for a short drive right after it won't start right. it takes a while to start/ jumps don't work, let it cool and it starts like its nothing. i've spent some money changed the battery, and first trip on the new batt same thing occurs. i've found that the pcv hose from the driver side valve cover is missing, but i'm starting to think that's not the thing causing this. (also going to switch out the pcv since it seems to be a mopar part which makes me think its a original) person before me changed the water pump and the timing chain recently. I'm at a loss as to what's wrong with this car. gunna go about changing the sparks as well to champion double plats.
any helpful hints and tips are much appreciated.
any helpful hints and tips are much appreciated.
cleaned battery contacts/ changed sparks/ pcvs/ attached pcv hose. did everything and .. its still doing it. i checked the plastic intake and there were no buildups around the engine intake area. i'm stumped. Should i just go for the cps / cks sensor replacements?
it varies between tries. no crank/ no noise or clicks and then nothing. and its only on warm/hot starts all the accessories such as ac/ radio / lights and everyything else comes on + i just cleaned all of the terminals and the changed the battery. it shouldn't be the battery. also the starter works fine almost all of the time even when hot when it starts fine.
Last edited by caoder; Apr 24, 2011 at 06:24 PM.
Ok...do I understand correct that when the malfunction is occurring, the starter is not turning over at all but the lights and such ate fine? Also when it occurs, it is usually when its hot although sometimes when it's hot it starts fine. Is this correct or when the malfunction occurs does it crank but will not start?
Ok you have a new battery or did you put an old one in? It could be the battery, the starter, or a bad connection. You can have the starter and battery checked for free at most part stores. The starter test while in the car check hoe many amps the starter is drawing. Because of the nature of it occuring when hot, I'm leaning toward the starter. Chem both the battery and starter first to save money. Also check the main ground point (off the battery connection ) and the hot post on both the battery and the starter.
Trending Topics
i had the battery tested + put a new one in. i went through and checked / tightened / cleaned the + and - jump points / celaned the posts and i'm trying to find the starter to try and take a look at it but its hard to get to.gunna go get the started checked out tomorrow.
Never heard of a bad switc causing a click (only a no start) but I guess anything is possible. Like I said, get the free check done at a parts store. Normally ifit occurs when hot only, its due to increased resistance and tha shows up as increased amp draw.


