Ok, So I got done the install and pics will be up soon (not of the progress)

But! I will tell you how it went and some recommendations for any and all who want to try this in your own

First off:
We started with the front springs. taking out the strut assembly was easy and straight forward. but here comes the fun part, compressing and removing the spring and with only a single coil spring compressor (I recommend using 2 after this experience). The space between the strut and spring was too tight and narrow to put it in the middle so I compressed the spring down tied it, then compressed the other down to disassemble and take the springs out. Mind you there's a good 6 inches of compressed spring in the from springs (reverse progress to get the new springs in, this was, however, much easier being there were 'dead' coils to provide the drop but still take up the space the the old spring did) after reassembling the strut installing it back into the car was easy as well.

After the fronts were done we moved to the back and removing the struts were, again, straight forward and easy. The rear spring was under a lot less compression than the front springs and put up much less of a fight, so the rear springs went well (same procedure as the front was taken) after all was done and the strut was reassembled we went to reinstall them into the strut towers and this was the hard part. the knuckles had fallen and tilted out so the struts put up a hell of a fight to reattach the bottom of the struts to the wheel knuckle (we used a jack to move it back into position). after that it was cake.

After all was said and done it took about 6 hrs to do (2 and 1/2 hrs just to figure out how to do it with only one spring compressor)

Tools used:
2 people, lol
1 coil spring compressor
Various socket sizes in both standard and metric
some WD-40
1 hammer
1 vice wrench
1 high chair strap lol (gotta be innovative)
A lot of elbow grease

Car: 2003 SXT

Springs used: Kazera lowering springs ($49.00+shipping closeout at tirerack.com. Orig $135.00) 1.5" front. 1.4" rear)

Result: The car handles a lot nicer and stiffer as well as the car doesn't roll as much on the turns and on hard stops doesn't dive forward as much. I personally like the handling, though the ride is a little rough but as expected with lowering springs.

if you have any questions let me know

 

Thanks for the write up man.. Think i should be able to do this myself after reading how easy it seemed for you.. knowing that i know very little about cars im not sure if i should try it or not.. i ordered the exact same springs as you..
So all i need to do is:?
1. Take the wheel off
2. Remove the strut from the bottom or top? or do i need to compress the springs at this time (im sure i will figure it out when i try but i want a good understanding b4 doing it)
3. Remove the strut from the top or bottom? (and how do u remove for both.. know on the top theres just like 3 bolts or something but what about the bottom..?)
4. Remove the whoel assembly and then compress the springs (even tho i think this should be done as soon as wheel is removed?)
5. do the reverse to install the new spring on the strut?
6. Repeat for teh rest of the wheels!

 

this will explane it all. step by step

https://dodgeforum.com/m_899354/mpag.../tm.htm#899354

I used the vice wrench (the one shown for the specialyty tool) on the strut shaft to keep it from turning as I took the top nut off (you're supposed to use another socket on the inside of the "specialty tool"

 

EDIT from above:

they remove from the bottom, after 3 nuts on the strut towers (under hood and in trunk) 2 nuts on the wheel knuckle (REMOVE ONLY THE NUT THEN TAP OUT THE BOLT the bolt is serraded and turning the bolt could damage the bolt and or knuckle) and remember to remove the gound strap in the front and the brake line in the back off the struts and pull them down and out

 

Ok.. thanks.. also.. there will be enough room to remove it if i just use a jack?
and do i need to lower the car on the jack to remove the top bolts in the engine bay? or is that just assuming u cant do it with how high the car is jacked up?

 

I had 11.5 inch jackstands under my car to lift it and it was perfectly fine. i could get everything out and access everything without lowering it back down. I wouldnt recomend using only a jack as they are unstable.

a set of 3 ton jackstands are about 20 bucks at an auto store. invest in them!! I dont want to hear about somebody getting crushed under a neon trying to do this on their own