greater turbo
#11
10-01-2007, 10:48 AM
Professional
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Oviedo, FL
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#12
10-01-2007, 11:51 AM
#13
10-01-2007, 05:36 PM
Grand Champion
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: greater turbo
Thats why you buy parts from forum members with positive feedback, and dont go to a junkyard expecting a wrecked car to have perfectly functional parts. There are tons and tons of SRT-4 parts out there with limited wear and tear that can be had for ultra cheap, simply because a vast majority of SRT owners upgrade parts because its so damn easy for them to do so...
#14
10-01-2007, 10:07 PM
RE: greater turbo
Even with pos feedback you still have to beware on any used thing . Especailly anything to do with a srt4 . Like Im looking into getting a used 05 srt4 here locally with a stage1 and I know the guy so hes taken very good care of it and only raced it a few times and only had like 10k miles on it and hes askin 15grand for it . It all just depends you win some and lose some with srt4s.
#15
10-02-2007, 11:25 AM
RE: greater turbo
ORIGINAL: 03neonRT
The average cost for this setup is anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000...just remember, you get what you pay for, and if you buy cheap parts you risk the life of your engine (its dramatic I know, but very true!!). Just remember the general rule of car projects is...CHEAP, FAST, or RELIABLE...you can only pick two!
You can only run 250wtq on stock bottom end before you start breaking rods (estimated)...on a SRT-4 turbo this point will be between 10psi and 12psi. Bottom end rebuild kits are available for roughly $1,100 and will allow you to run 400+whp/wtq. I would suggest only going to 8psi on a stock bottom end with a TD04 turbocharger, but you could push it up to 12psi if you wanted to...remember, PSI is irrelevent since torque is what breaks things inside your engine.
Another thing to remember is your fuel tune is CRITICAL. Even with very low levels of boost if your fuel tune is poor you WILL destroy your motor. Spend the time and money on proper fuel system components and your tune, or you will pay for it later!!
General Components:
1. TD04 Turbocharger
2. SRT-4 Exhaust Manifold
3. SRT-4 02 Housing
4. SRT-4 Front Mount Intercooler
5. SRT-4 FMIC Piping (Hot and Cold Side) – The piping WILL need to be modified to fit around the 2.0 engine.
6. Mattdog SOHC to DOHC Manifold Adaptor Plate
Fuel System Components:
1. Walboro 255lph High Volume Fuel Pump
2. Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) – Chill Factory, Vortech, BEGI, Cartech, or Equivalent (Chill Factory is the best though).
3. 30lb Fuel Injectors or SRT-4 Stage 0 Injectors (2003). Stage 1 Injectors could work, but they are too large for a low boost application IMO.
4. Fuel Return Line – AaronNeon Return Line Kit or SpoolBoy mod **.
5. AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link – The Missing Link is MUCH better but the AOBE is MUCH cheaper.
6. Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Gauge (A/Fr) – AEM UGEO or Innovative Motorsports.
**The following are the components with part numbers requires to modify your fuel canister ONLY for the SpoolBoy Mod**
XRP part numbers:
340006: -6 push-on hose (1 foot)
340004: -4 push-on hose (1 foot )
230006: Straight -6 push-on hose end
230004: Straight -4 push-on hose end
983306: 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting
983304: 90 degree -4 bulkhead fitting
992406: 90 degree -6 bulkhead nut
992404: 90 degree -4 bulkhead nut
890206: -6 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
890204: -4 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
Oil System Components:
1. Melling M190 Oil Pump –Not necessarily required, but it has a stronger rotor which is less prone to damage from detonation and failure
**The Following Are the Components Needed For the Oil Return**
(2) Stat - O - Seals (-10AN) (1) A-N Bulk Head 90*. (-10AN)
(2) Bulk Head Nut. (-10AN)
-10 AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose
(2) Straight Hose End. (-10AN)
**Oil Feed Components**
(1) -3AN Feed Line
(1) ¼ NPT Male Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT Female Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT to -3AN Adaptor
(1) 1/8 Tee (if you plan on running an oil gauge off the feed)
Miscellaneous Parts:
1. Oil Pressure Gauge
2. Boost Gauge
3. Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge
4. Wideband A/Fr Gauge (previously mentioned).
5. Gauge Pods – I chose the SRT-4 single dash pod and the Modern Performance Dual Pillar Pod.
6. Upgraded Clutch (PT Cruiser Non-Turbo, SPEC, etc…).
7. Manual Boost Controller or Electronic Boost Controller.
Optional Parts:
1. Mopar/Borla 2.5†Cat-back Exhaust (or equivalent).
2. Turbo XS BOV Kit or Equivalent (also need Mopar Block-Off Plate).
3. Megasquirt Standalone Engine Unit (run spark and fuel).
4. Turbo Timer
The average cost for this setup is anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000...just remember, you get what you pay for, and if you buy cheap parts you risk the life of your engine (its dramatic I know, but very true!!). Just remember the general rule of car projects is...CHEAP, FAST, or RELIABLE...you can only pick two!
You can only run 250wtq on stock bottom end before you start breaking rods (estimated)...on a SRT-4 turbo this point will be between 10psi and 12psi. Bottom end rebuild kits are available for roughly $1,100 and will allow you to run 400+whp/wtq. I would suggest only going to 8psi on a stock bottom end with a TD04 turbocharger, but you could push it up to 12psi if you wanted to...remember, PSI is irrelevent since torque is what breaks things inside your engine.
Another thing to remember is your fuel tune is CRITICAL. Even with very low levels of boost if your fuel tune is poor you WILL destroy your motor. Spend the time and money on proper fuel system components and your tune, or you will pay for it later!!
General Components:
1. TD04 Turbocharger
2. SRT-4 Exhaust Manifold
3. SRT-4 02 Housing
4. SRT-4 Front Mount Intercooler
5. SRT-4 FMIC Piping (Hot and Cold Side) – The piping WILL need to be modified to fit around the 2.0 engine.
6. Mattdog SOHC to DOHC Manifold Adaptor Plate
Fuel System Components:
1. Walboro 255lph High Volume Fuel Pump
2. Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) – Chill Factory, Vortech, BEGI, Cartech, or Equivalent (Chill Factory is the best though).
3. 30lb Fuel Injectors or SRT-4 Stage 0 Injectors (2003). Stage 1 Injectors could work, but they are too large for a low boost application IMO.
4. Fuel Return Line – AaronNeon Return Line Kit or SpoolBoy mod **.
5. AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link – The Missing Link is MUCH better but the AOBE is MUCH cheaper.
6. Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Gauge (A/Fr) – AEM UGEO or Innovative Motorsports.
**The following are the components with part numbers requires to modify your fuel canister ONLY for the SpoolBoy Mod**
XRP part numbers:
340006: -6 push-on hose (1 foot)
340004: -4 push-on hose (1 foot )
230006: Straight -6 push-on hose end
230004: Straight -4 push-on hose end
983306: 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting
983304: 90 degree -4 bulkhead fitting
992406: 90 degree -6 bulkhead nut
992404: 90 degree -4 bulkhead nut
890206: -6 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
890204: -4 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
Oil System Components:
1. Melling M190 Oil Pump –Not necessarily required, but it has a stronger rotor which is less prone to damage from detonation and failure
**The Following Are the Components Needed For the Oil Return**
(2) Stat - O - Seals (-10AN) (1) A-N Bulk Head 90*. (-10AN)
(2) Bulk Head Nut. (-10AN)
-10 AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose
(2) Straight Hose End. (-10AN)
**Oil Feed Components**
(1) -3AN Feed Line
(1) ¼ NPT Male Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT Female Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT to -3AN Adaptor
(1) 1/8 Tee (if you plan on running an oil gauge off the feed)
Miscellaneous Parts:
1. Oil Pressure Gauge
2. Boost Gauge
3. Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge
4. Wideband A/Fr Gauge (previously mentioned).
5. Gauge Pods – I chose the SRT-4 single dash pod and the Modern Performance Dual Pillar Pod.
6. Upgraded Clutch (PT Cruiser Non-Turbo, SPEC, etc…).
7. Manual Boost Controller or Electronic Boost Controller.
Optional Parts:
1. Mopar/Borla 2.5†Cat-back Exhaust (or equivalent).
2. Turbo XS BOV Kit or Equivalent (also need Mopar Block-Off Plate).
3. Megasquirt Standalone Engine Unit (run spark and fuel).
4. Turbo Timer
#16
10-02-2007, 12:44 PM
Grand Champion
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: greater turbo
ORIGINAL: SXTspeed
lol I really wonder how many times you have had to post all that 03RT...
ORIGINAL: 03neonRT
The average cost for this setup is anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000...just remember, you get what you pay for, and if you buy cheap parts you risk the life of your engine (its dramatic I know, but very true!!). Just remember the general rule of car projects is...CHEAP, FAST, or RELIABLE...you can only pick two!
You can only run 250wtq on stock bottom end before you start breaking rods (estimated)...on a SRT-4 turbo this point will be between 10psi and 12psi. Bottom end rebuild kits are available for roughly $1,100 and will allow you to run 400+whp/wtq. I would suggest only going to 8psi on a stock bottom end with a TD04 turbocharger, but you could push it up to 12psi if you wanted to...remember, PSI is irrelevent since torque is what breaks things inside your engine.
Another thing to remember is your fuel tune is CRITICAL. Even with very low levels of boost if your fuel tune is poor you WILL destroy your motor. Spend the time and money on proper fuel system components and your tune, or you will pay for it later!!
General Components:
1. TD04 Turbocharger
2. SRT-4 Exhaust Manifold
3. SRT-4 02 Housing
4. SRT-4 Front Mount Intercooler
5. SRT-4 FMIC Piping (Hot and Cold Side) – The piping WILL need to be modified to fit around the 2.0 engine.
6. Mattdog SOHC to DOHC Manifold Adaptor Plate
Fuel System Components:
1. Walboro 255lph High Volume Fuel Pump
2. Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) – Chill Factory, Vortech, BEGI, Cartech, or Equivalent (Chill Factory is the best though).
3. 30lb Fuel Injectors or SRT-4 Stage 0 Injectors (2003). Stage 1 Injectors could work, but they are too large for a low boost application IMO.
4. Fuel Return Line – AaronNeon Return Line Kit or SpoolBoy mod **.
5. AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link – The Missing Link is MUCH better but the AOBE is MUCH cheaper.
6. Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Gauge (A/Fr) – AEM UGEO or Innovative Motorsports.
**The following are the components with part numbers requires to modify your fuel canister ONLY for the SpoolBoy Mod**
XRP part numbers:
340006: -6 push-on hose (1 foot)
340004: -4 push-on hose (1 foot )
230006: Straight -6 push-on hose end
230004: Straight -4 push-on hose end
983306: 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting
983304: 90 degree -4 bulkhead fitting
992406: 90 degree -6 bulkhead nut
992404: 90 degree -4 bulkhead nut
890206: -6 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
890204: -4 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
Oil System Components:
1. Melling M190 Oil Pump –Not necessarily required, but it has a stronger rotor which is less prone to damage from detonation and failure
**The Following Are the Components Needed For the Oil Return**
(2) Stat - O - Seals (-10AN) (1) A-N Bulk Head 90*. (-10AN)
(2) Bulk Head Nut. (-10AN)
-10 AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose
(2) Straight Hose End. (-10AN)
**Oil Feed Components**
(1) -3AN Feed Line
(1) ¼ NPT Male Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT Female Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT to -3AN Adaptor
(1) 1/8 Tee (if you plan on running an oil gauge off the feed)
Miscellaneous Parts:
1. Oil Pressure Gauge
2. Boost Gauge
3. Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge
4. Wideband A/Fr Gauge (previously mentioned).
5. Gauge Pods – I chose the SRT-4 single dash pod and the Modern Performance Dual Pillar Pod.
6. Upgraded Clutch (PT Cruiser Non-Turbo, SPEC, etc…).
7. Manual Boost Controller or Electronic Boost Controller.
Optional Parts:
1. Mopar/Borla 2.5†Cat-back Exhaust (or equivalent).
2. Turbo XS BOV Kit or Equivalent (also need Mopar Block-Off Plate).
3. Megasquirt Standalone Engine Unit (run spark and fuel).
4. Turbo Timer
The average cost for this setup is anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000...just remember, you get what you pay for, and if you buy cheap parts you risk the life of your engine (its dramatic I know, but very true!!). Just remember the general rule of car projects is...CHEAP, FAST, or RELIABLE...you can only pick two!
You can only run 250wtq on stock bottom end before you start breaking rods (estimated)...on a SRT-4 turbo this point will be between 10psi and 12psi. Bottom end rebuild kits are available for roughly $1,100 and will allow you to run 400+whp/wtq. I would suggest only going to 8psi on a stock bottom end with a TD04 turbocharger, but you could push it up to 12psi if you wanted to...remember, PSI is irrelevent since torque is what breaks things inside your engine.
Another thing to remember is your fuel tune is CRITICAL. Even with very low levels of boost if your fuel tune is poor you WILL destroy your motor. Spend the time and money on proper fuel system components and your tune, or you will pay for it later!!
General Components:
1. TD04 Turbocharger
2. SRT-4 Exhaust Manifold
3. SRT-4 02 Housing
4. SRT-4 Front Mount Intercooler
5. SRT-4 FMIC Piping (Hot and Cold Side) – The piping WILL need to be modified to fit around the 2.0 engine.
6. Mattdog SOHC to DOHC Manifold Adaptor Plate
Fuel System Components:
1. Walboro 255lph High Volume Fuel Pump
2. Rising Rate Fuel Pressure Regulator (RRFPR) – Chill Factory, Vortech, BEGI, Cartech, or Equivalent (Chill Factory is the best though).
3. 30lb Fuel Injectors or SRT-4 Stage 0 Injectors (2003). Stage 1 Injectors could work, but they are too large for a low boost application IMO.
4. Fuel Return Line – AaronNeon Return Line Kit or SpoolBoy mod **.
5. AOBE Map Clamp or Missing Link – The Missing Link is MUCH better but the AOBE is MUCH cheaper.
6. Wideband Air Fuel Ratio Gauge (A/Fr) – AEM UGEO or Innovative Motorsports.
**The following are the components with part numbers requires to modify your fuel canister ONLY for the SpoolBoy Mod**
XRP part numbers:
340006: -6 push-on hose (1 foot)
340004: -4 push-on hose (1 foot )
230006: Straight -6 push-on hose end
230004: Straight -4 push-on hose end
983306: 90 degree -6 bulkhead fitting
983304: 90 degree -4 bulkhead fitting
992406: 90 degree -6 bulkhead nut
992404: 90 degree -4 bulkhead nut
890206: -6 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
890204: -4 Stat-O-Seals (2 per package)
Oil System Components:
1. Melling M190 Oil Pump –Not necessarily required, but it has a stronger rotor which is less prone to damage from detonation and failure
**The Following Are the Components Needed For the Oil Return**
(2) Stat - O - Seals (-10AN) (1) A-N Bulk Head 90*. (-10AN)
(2) Bulk Head Nut. (-10AN)
-10 AN Stainless Steel Braided Hose
(2) Straight Hose End. (-10AN)
**Oil Feed Components**
(1) -3AN Feed Line
(1) ¼ NPT Male Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT Female Connector
(1) 1/8 NPT to -3AN Adaptor
(1) 1/8 Tee (if you plan on running an oil gauge off the feed)
Miscellaneous Parts:
1. Oil Pressure Gauge
2. Boost Gauge
3. Inline Fuel Pressure Gauge
4. Wideband A/Fr Gauge (previously mentioned).
5. Gauge Pods – I chose the SRT-4 single dash pod and the Modern Performance Dual Pillar Pod.
6. Upgraded Clutch (PT Cruiser Non-Turbo, SPEC, etc…).
7. Manual Boost Controller or Electronic Boost Controller.
Optional Parts:
1. Mopar/Borla 2.5†Cat-back Exhaust (or equivalent).
2. Turbo XS BOV Kit or Equivalent (also need Mopar Block-Off Plate).
3. Megasquirt Standalone Engine Unit (run spark and fuel).
4. Turbo Timer
.
#17
10-02-2007, 01:15 PM
RE: greater turbo
Yeah, but at least it is good to know that people still need your knowledge and that you care about us [8D]
I know I have talked to you many times about getting a turbo for my neon or doing an SRT-4 swap and you have always helped me out. Of course I think I am going to leave my car stock so I can save up some moneyto mod my next car, which will either be an 88-92 camaro or a 97-04 corvette (the latter option occuring if I get a REALLY good scholarship to college, my dad said he would buy me one, which when we looked at it is about 1 years tuition at the school I wanna go to). But I was reading another post about the Mopar lip kit being put on clearance from $700, down to $430 at dodgeparts.com so that sparked my interest a bit.
Go to www.turbo-kits.com for the Hahn turbo kit. Make sure you are looking at the 03-05 model. They have the cheapest price of about $4400 last time I checked.
I know I have talked to you many times about getting a turbo for my neon or doing an SRT-4 swap and you have always helped me out. Of course I think I am going to leave my car stock so I can save up some moneyto mod my next car, which will either be an 88-92 camaro or a 97-04 corvette (the latter option occuring if I get a REALLY good scholarship to college, my dad said he would buy me one, which when we looked at it is about 1 years tuition at the school I wanna go to). But I was reading another post about the Mopar lip kit being put on clearance from $700, down to $430 at dodgeparts.com so that sparked my interest a bit.
Go to www.turbo-kits.com for the Hahn turbo kit. Make sure you are looking at the 03-05 model. They have the cheapest price of about $4400 last time I checked.
#19
10-02-2007, 01:27 PM
Grand Champion
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 6,258
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: greater turbo
ORIGINAL: SXTspeed
Yeah, but at least it is good to know that people still need your knowledge and that you care about us [8D]
I know I have talked to you many times about getting a turbo for my neon or doing an SRT-4 swap and you have always helped me out. Of course I think I am going to leave my car stock so I can save up some moneyto mod my next car, which will either be an 88-92 camaro or a 97-04 corvette (the latter option occuring if I get a REALLY good scholarship to college, my dad said he would buy me one, which when we looked at it is about 1 years tuition at the school I wanna go to). But I was reading another post about the Mopar lip kit being put on clearance from $700, down to $430 at dodgeparts.com so that sparked my interest a bit.
Yeah, but at least it is good to know that people still need your knowledge and that you care about us [8D]
I know I have talked to you many times about getting a turbo for my neon or doing an SRT-4 swap and you have always helped me out. Of course I think I am going to leave my car stock so I can save up some moneyto mod my next car, which will either be an 88-92 camaro or a 97-04 corvette (the latter option occuring if I get a REALLY good scholarship to college, my dad said he would buy me one, which when we looked at it is about 1 years tuition at the school I wanna go to). But I was reading another post about the Mopar lip kit being put on clearance from $700, down to $430 at dodgeparts.com so that sparked my interest a bit.
. I dont really like the 88-92 Camaros, I would go for the 98-02 4th Gen ones myself, but I like the LS1 over the LT1 anyways. The C5 Vette would be real nice though...As for the lip kit, you can still get whatever kits are remaining for $99 (front and rear) or $69 for the side skirts from dealerships or MSC...
#20
10-02-2007, 07:28 PM
RE: greater turbo
oh, well maybe I'll do that then lol.
The 88-92 camaro's didn't have LT1's fyi. They had the 5.7L TPI 350 that came in the 85-96 vettes. I would get a 98-02 camaro but I wouldn't have enough money for that, and if my dad got me a car why not get a vette instead of a camaroEither way i'll prolly keep my neon for gas and for bad weather.
The 88-92 camaro's didn't have LT1's fyi. They had the 5.7L TPI 350 that came in the 85-96 vettes. I would get a 98-02 camaro but I wouldn't have enough money for that, and if my dad got me a car why not get a vette instead of a camaro
Either way i'll prolly keep my neon for gas and for bad weather.