Gas mileage tips (creative) with the Neon?
-Mine gets so-so mileage around town. 23-25 mpg. But on the highway I've gotten between 34-38 mpg. And most of that was driving 70-75 mph on the Interstate just flowing with traffic.
L8R,
Matt D.
L8R,
Matt D.
I received an email that had been circling around the school district I work at. It has stated from a survey by a person who studies something to do with gas and cars. Anyways this is what I can remember: Fill your tank up when the weather is cooler, not in the heat of the day Never get gas when the gas truck is around. It is mixing the gasoline around and you will probably end up with the dirt. Don’t pump your gas on high speed, because the vapors seep out. Pump it on the low setting. Try to keep your tank no more than half empty, because of the air that builds inside it.
i dont really think you can efectively cange your gas mileage for the better. the car is gonna get an average of what was posted on the windshield when you bought the car. if you want better gas mileage than what you have now, get a different car that offers better gas mileage.
As odd as it seems, I have been exposed to some highly effective fuel saving techniques. Looking to install two methods on my car once I get valves back in my dohc head.

Biased exhaust port

powre linz to maximize fuel automization for more complete combustion (burn).

Biased exhaust port

powre linz to maximize fuel automization for more complete combustion (burn).
Draft behind Big Rigs when possible. It Works. (see Mythbusters Episode)
Drag Reduction by feet:
10ft - 60%
6ft - 80%
2ft - 93%
Fuel Consumption Decrease by feet:
100ft- 11%
50ft- 20%
20ft- 27%
10ft- 39%
2ft- 28%
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBus...ting_For_Money
Drag Reduction by feet:
10ft - 60%
6ft - 80%
2ft - 93%
Fuel Consumption Decrease by feet:
100ft- 11%
50ft- 20%
20ft- 27%
10ft- 39%
2ft- 28%
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBus...ting_For_Money
having a clean air filter is a good place to start, good O2 sensors, not using your A/C all the time, installing an under dirve pulley and dont push so hard on the gas pedal all the time
ORIGINAL: mat663
ptschafer...your rims are very nice!!
But yeh, what they said^^^lol
ptschafer...your rims are very nice!!
But yeh, what they said^^^lol
Anyway, good tips so far, those who aren't being sarcastic [sm=itsok.gif]But some of the tips are things I am currently doing:
Driving behind semi's on the interstate... I got a 35-mile drive to work every day, all interstate, so I try to draft behind semis going 65 mph, no slower, no faster... Also a good tip on the plugs and wires, although I have found with many vehicles that even cheap $19 Autozone wires usually are good for 50k miles or so. Plugs are a good deal, copper Champions gapped at 0.035"-0.039" are usually a good bet (the coil can handle up to 0.050" reliably if you dare to try). I also agree with the gas-filling techniques with the tank, to an extent. Yes, you should not fill up when the gas station is getting re-fueled by a tanker for the reasons mentioned.
I personally make a habit of stopping by gas stations that I know sell QUALITY gas, not CHEAP gas... yeah, the cheapo-station down the street might have it $0.05 cheaper, but there is a cheap station around here that sells "89.5 octane" gas, and that's it, and the stuff sits in their tanks so long before they sell it that it must attract too much moisture because whenever I filled up there I got60 miles or worse LESS to a tank than usual. SO I make a habit of stopping by certain BIG stations that get LOTS of customers and sell QUALITY fuel, so I know that the fuel is fresh and not contaminated.
I am also making a habit not to let the tach go above 2800 rpm or so when shifting, and putting no more than 25% pedal into it. Got a K&N short-ram intake and a glasspack exiting straight out the rear, etc...
Under-drive pulleys sound like a good idea, and in the past I always discounted the cost of pulleys and time of labor as not a good payoff... but if the price of gas gets any higher, I will consider the UD pulleys well worth the cost.
The "spiral-porting" on the heads or whatever you want to call it looks interesting, but I'm interested in seeing real-world comparisons on that to weigh the effects of it to see if it's worth it.
I also have removed the junk out of the trunk, and contiplated over-inflating the tires to 45+ psi or so for less rolling resistence, but am concerned about cupped tire wear... of course, if gas gets much more expensive, tires will soon be cheaper than a fill-up.
ANY OTHER IDEAS? GOOD STUFF SO FAR, KEEP 'EM COMING!
ORIGINAL: technical18
Draft behind Big Rigs when possible. It Works. (see Mythbusters Episode)
Drag Reduction by feet:
10ft - 60%
6ft - 80%
2ft - 93%
Fuel Consumption Decrease by feet:
100ft- 11%
50ft- 20%
20ft- 27%
10ft- 39%
2ft- 28%
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBus...ting_For_Money
Draft behind Big Rigs when possible. It Works. (see Mythbusters Episode)
Drag Reduction by feet:
10ft - 60%
6ft - 80%
2ft - 93%
Fuel Consumption Decrease by feet:
100ft- 11%
50ft- 20%
20ft- 27%
10ft- 39%
2ft- 28%
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/MythBus...ting_For_Money
well..... me personaly if u tear the engine out of the car... u get REALLY REALLY good gas milage in it... also if u take the gas from the car sitting in the garage with no engine out of it it makes ur second car get REALLY REALLY REALLY REALLY good gas milage also.... untill the car in the garage is also out of gas.... then well u r s.o.l
sorry but everyone else did...i just had to join the party
sorry but everyone else did...i just had to join the party


