Have you checked the condition of the plug and plug wire contact points, along with the resistance of the wires themselves? Might test the coil pack as well...

I Checked the wires from the injecter to the pcm for any visual damage, i also cut into the wire down by the pcm plug and ran new wire to the injector and eliminated the injector plug with no difference. I am starting to think that the connector that plugs into the pcm that is the problem. I did not test the resistance because i am not sure exactly how to do that. I did make sure i was getting spark on all cylinders. I also put new plugs and wires on it.

If there is new plugs and wires, that is most likely not going to be a problem. You may check the coil pack then. I believe the test is somewhere in this forum already.

Ok, well I sprayed contact cleaner in the plug that connects to the pcm and no change at all, I ran some seafoam through it, I did notice that after I did the oil change I do get a tapping noise when I rev it up and let it idle down. It sounds nice when you hold the gas down but when it goes and idles down thats when I get the tapping noise, I wonder if that could be causing my miss? But I still believe I am not sure if I am getting any fuel, I pulled all the plugs again and they all look the same and just faintly smell of gas, I changed number one injector again with no difference, I can still unplug injector one with the engine running and not notice a difference at all, but with the other 3 if I unplug them The motor stumbles as if it is getting ready to stall out. I am going to try and change the coil pack tommorrow and see what happens.

The coil pack is the only thing I can think of that's left ATM. Usually if an injector is not working, it makes a loud clicking noise. If you are still getting spark though, I'd think the coil pack is still working...

Ok, well I am going to keep trouble shooting, I got today off so I will be out there most of the day working on it.

Similar situation
 

I too have a similar situation w/ my injectors, it just started to sputter this week then yseterday stalled out on me, I took it too two different place and both are of no help. The difference between his situation & mine is my cat when it stalled out this last time was red hot! Is my injector #1 (code p0201) bad or maybe the wiring or is it my cat & o2 sensor? I do get a code (p0138) but not sure what is causing it to stall out? any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

A catalytic converter shouldn't be glowing red, ever, if everything is working properly. If you continue to drive and it keeps doing that, it will fail much sooner than later. They glow red from burning too much fuel. That cat is becoming a problem from what seems to be the injector (the code).

Read through this page and do any of the "possible solutions" if you can.
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0201 If not, check the wiring as well from the injector to the PCM, even the plugs, plug wires and coil pack just to be certain those are fine too.

A suggestion
 

Tommy, just a suggestion, but I have done this in the past. Take the car to the dealer and have them isolate the problem for you. Once they are done, do the work yourself. My 1991 voyager van was giving me a cold start problem … didn’t like being outside. I’d park it in the garage and it would start fine. If I left it out, it was very hard to start … and sometimes wouldn’t start at all, no fault codes from the computer either. I took it to the dealer; the put it on their scope and they noticed the cam and crank sensors were intermittent. I took it home and changed them out myself, problem fixed.
In your case, I’m sure the dealer will be able to quickly isolate the cause of your problem.
Darthroush is correct. The PCM controls the pulse width of the injectors by controlling the gound circuit to the injector. The PCM controls the ignition circuits too. From what I know at this point, I don’t think this is an ignition problem because (1) you have changed the plugs and wires, and (2) you would see a misfire in cylinder #4 if it was a bad ignition coil since this is a “waste spark system”; the rear coil provides spark for the #1 & #4 cylinder. The Haynes manual suggests placing a mechanic’s stethoscope on the injector & listen for a clicking sound. No clicking means it’s not opening & no fuel to the cylinder. If you don’t hear any clicking check your grounds.

One way to check to see if it's the injector, just thinking of it, switch injectors from say, cylinder 1 to 4, clear the code and see what happens.