One other thing. If you do have a leak and I am pretty sure you do. Some models came with dye tracer that can be seen under UV light to see where the leak is. It is recommended that you seek a proffesionals help because once you open your AC lines when replacing any faulty O-rings, you need to vacuum your lines. Luckily my uncle has the equipment and helped me with mine. If you don't you could very easily corrode your AC lines resulting in a much more expensive repair. The O-rings cost almost nothing, but you nees someone who can vaccum the lines. VERY IMPORTANT.

 

The invoice just says: repair clutch wires. I'm assuming it was for the AC b/c that was the problem. I doubt it's leaking b/c I am very observant and the car doesn't leak anything but water. I'm thinking it might be the same problem. Maybe the wires are broken again.
When I put the switch on AC it doesn't work. When I say it doesn't work, I mean it doesn't blow cold air. However hot is outside or however cold it is outside, that alters the temp of the AC (which is logical). Basically the AC's temp is the same as Vent.

 

Remember that when we vacuum the system down that we usually only get at most and once or two of oil and the Clear Oderless Refrigerent boils at about 34 degrees farenheight, so likely hood of finding an undyed leak with your eyes is **** poor at best and that would be if you were looking for it intentionally.

If the clutch is not running then you have no AC as the compressor would not be running. You can check this condition easily by looking at the compressor pully end and then turning the AC. This is easily observed as the end of the pully does not turn while the belt goes round and round. Then it should click on and off periodically and the pully end should turn with the belt. Easy see. Flashlight might be helpful.

This would tell you basically if it is at least trying to oerate or just plain BROKE! Then you have a starting point.