o2 sensor question??? 2001 RT Neon
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
o2 sensor question??? 2001 RT Neon
I plugged my scanner in and it gave me trouble codes PO132, PO134, and PO141... on a 2001 Dodge Neon RT...
PO132= o2 sensor circuit high volts (bank 1 sensor 1)
PO134= o2 sensor CKT No Activity (bank 1 sensor 1)
PO141= o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2)
Does this mean all i need to do is replace them, and i looked for the downstream sensor and i am not seeing it? I seen on this forum that someone said the RT's don't have a downstream o2 sensor (or he didn't on his RT) which doesn't sound right but didn't see it after the "cat" or is it after the "cat?"
PO132= o2 sensor circuit high volts (bank 1 sensor 1)
PO134= o2 sensor CKT No Activity (bank 1 sensor 1)
PO141= o2 sensor heater circuit malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2)
Does this mean all i need to do is replace them, and i looked for the downstream sensor and i am not seeing it? I seen on this forum that someone said the RT's don't have a downstream o2 sensor (or he didn't on his RT) which doesn't sound right but didn't see it after the "cat" or is it after the "cat?"
Thread Starter
|
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
I found all the o2 sensors... just think with a 145,000 miles that the "cat" should be replaced also? is there any other way i can use a catalytic converter that doesn't have a bung for the o2 sensor right in the converter? Personally think that was really really effin stupid for mopar to put a bung right in the middle of the catalytic converter!!! Anyone ever tryed put the upstream o2 sensor before the catalytic converter before??? My neon is running like POS right now and really be a big help if someone could give me some info? thanks
Last edited by silver95dodge; Jan 13, 2010 at 01:19 PM. Reason: mis spelled
Rookie
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
Hmmmm....
+
This
You can use a resistor to cancel ya CEL, this is what I'm performing manana!!! GL bro lemme how it goes!! Materials:
1) wire cutters
2) wire strippers
3) 1 10 Mega Ohm resistor rated at 1/4 watt or more. - Radioshack P/N 271-1365
4) 2 Butt Connectors - Radioshack P/N 64-3108
5) Clear or Gray Heatshrink that is 1/4x6" or larger, but I found this to be the best size. - Radioshack P/N 278-1610
6) A heatgun or lighter or anything that will make the heatshrink actually shrink.
7) electrical or duct tape/zip ties.
Procedure:
1) get under the car and disconnect the REAR O2 sensor from the socket and from the cat. To disconnect it from the cat is a bit tricky and a special tool is needed. You can get it done at a muffler shop for little to nothing. Instead of trying to think up a good excuse simply tell them that your getting a new cat and that you need to take the O2 sensor out to put it in the new one or you can tell them that the sensor went bad and your replacing it. Anyway, if you don't have the tools to get it off the cat then get some place to do it.
2) assuming that the sensor is off the car and out of the cat your next goal is to expose some of the gray wire, i believe that there are either three or four wires, a black, 2 whites, and a gray, I THINK. Regardless there is still a gray wire.
3) cut the wire and strip about 1/4-1/2 inch on each side of the gray wire. This gap is where your resistor will go.
4) take out 1 10 MegaOhm resistor and simply insert one end into the butt connector. Then take the gray wire that you just cut (Doesn't matter which side) and insert that into the butt connector and crimp both sides. Now give a light tug to ensure that both the resistor and the wire are both secure.
5) Now slide the heat shrink over that piece and expose the other end of the resistor, the one that hasn't been connected.
6) repeat step 4 except do it with the other side of the resistor and the other side of the wire. Now crimp. There is no wrong way to put in a resister so don't stress out about putting it in in reverse, cause it can be connected both ways.
7) slide the heatshrink so that it covers the whole area that has been worked on and so that it overlaps the factory black wire
hose.
8) Now take your heating device and slowly heat the heatshrink so that it shrinks over the resistor and the two butt connectors. This makes sure that no metal or connection of any kind will loosen or make contact with the frame or any other part of the car.
9) Take the electrical tape or duct tape and wrap it around the whole O2 sensor cable, or at least the part the has the heatshrink on it. I wrapped electrical tape around the whole O2 sensor cable.
You should now be done and ready to role! Don't forget to plug the O2 sensor back in the car and you have to disconnect the battery from the car for a second from the car so that the computer will reset. Then just zip tie or duct tape the sensor and the wires to the frame and should be good to go! *** Got this mod from PO***
This is all hypothetical...
+
This
You can use a resistor to cancel ya CEL, this is what I'm performing manana!!! GL bro lemme how it goes!! Materials:
1) wire cutters
2) wire strippers
3) 1 10 Mega Ohm resistor rated at 1/4 watt or more. - Radioshack P/N 271-1365
4) 2 Butt Connectors - Radioshack P/N 64-3108
5) Clear or Gray Heatshrink that is 1/4x6" or larger, but I found this to be the best size. - Radioshack P/N 278-1610
6) A heatgun or lighter or anything that will make the heatshrink actually shrink.
7) electrical or duct tape/zip ties.
Procedure:
1) get under the car and disconnect the REAR O2 sensor from the socket and from the cat. To disconnect it from the cat is a bit tricky and a special tool is needed. You can get it done at a muffler shop for little to nothing. Instead of trying to think up a good excuse simply tell them that your getting a new cat and that you need to take the O2 sensor out to put it in the new one or you can tell them that the sensor went bad and your replacing it. Anyway, if you don't have the tools to get it off the cat then get some place to do it.
2) assuming that the sensor is off the car and out of the cat your next goal is to expose some of the gray wire, i believe that there are either three or four wires, a black, 2 whites, and a gray, I THINK. Regardless there is still a gray wire.
3) cut the wire and strip about 1/4-1/2 inch on each side of the gray wire. This gap is where your resistor will go.
4) take out 1 10 MegaOhm resistor and simply insert one end into the butt connector. Then take the gray wire that you just cut (Doesn't matter which side) and insert that into the butt connector and crimp both sides. Now give a light tug to ensure that both the resistor and the wire are both secure.
5) Now slide the heat shrink over that piece and expose the other end of the resistor, the one that hasn't been connected.
6) repeat step 4 except do it with the other side of the resistor and the other side of the wire. Now crimp. There is no wrong way to put in a resister so don't stress out about putting it in in reverse, cause it can be connected both ways.
7) slide the heatshrink so that it covers the whole area that has been worked on and so that it overlaps the factory black wire
hose.
8) Now take your heating device and slowly heat the heatshrink so that it shrinks over the resistor and the two butt connectors. This makes sure that no metal or connection of any kind will loosen or make contact with the frame or any other part of the car.
9) Take the electrical tape or duct tape and wrap it around the whole O2 sensor cable, or at least the part the has the heatshrink on it. I wrapped electrical tape around the whole O2 sensor cable.
You should now be done and ready to role! Don't forget to plug the O2 sensor back in the car and you have to disconnect the battery from the car for a second from the car so that the computer will reset. Then just zip tie or duct tape the sensor and the wires to the frame and should be good to go! *** Got this mod from PO***
This is all hypothetical...
Last edited by The Black Stig; Jan 17, 2010 at 02:30 PM.
