Can't do any checkin tonight but just curious if anyone has had similar problems.
Headed to the grocery store tonight and my car died making a turn. So I pulled over to start her back up and nothing happened. Lights are on like she's ready to crank but turning the key all the way doesn't even give me a starter solenoid click. Pop the hood and check some wire connections & she starts. So I go straight to AutoZone to get some codes, to give me a direction. I get P1490 (rad fan, issue currently working on), p0442 med evap leak, & p0455 large evap leak. With a little hunting before dark I didn't notice any loose vac connections. On the way home it died many times, once while driving down the road and a couple when stopping, pulling into the driveway I threw it in neutral and it kept running. I'm trying to remember the time line of everything but this weekend I pulled the IAC motor (in attempt to fix code p0508 since a new gas cap didn't work) and cleaned it and the throttle body with carb cleaner. IAC was nasty with all sorts of black crap comin out. Shortly after that I noticed the CEL ding sound every time I accelerate. All started today and starts up whenever it wants, (did have an ECM relay do this on my honda, do neons have a similar relay?)
Gonna check the vac hoses thoroughly when I get home tomorrow.
Thanks,
Jeff

 

I had a similar problem with mine when i had it. It ended up being the starter relay.

 

EVAP has to do with the fuel (fuel system should be closed, so if you have an air leak it'll throw EVAP codes & the bigger the leak the rougher the car will run). Fuel cap gasket replacement is typically a good place to start.

Not familiar with the Neon evap system, but on my Durango there is a small black box near my fuel tank which has several rubber hoses coming off it (for the EVAP system) and these commonly deteriorate and crack.

Replacing them is easy (typically just cut the end of the hose with the crack and re-install).

Might check for something similar on the Neon.

There is a starter relay like mhs182004 mentioned, so you might try jumping the terminals within the relay to see if it's bad (or just replace it, I think they're $10 or so).

Might also check for good grounds everywhere. Could also cause some of these problems.

 

It's called a carbon canister. It's tucked up under the body, in front of the RR tire. There is one large, main line that seems to crack more than the others. The way they are formed though, there isn't really any space to cut and reattach. If that one is broken, there are really only two workable options, IMO. The first, which I'd have to go find the part number for, is a PT Cruiser hose that has the same pre-molded shape that works. The second, which I did and I guess came up with, was wrapping the ends with cold-shrink tape, then coating it with some black RTV adhesive silicone for good measure, just because I had some laying around. I guess it will depend how bad the hose is. To answer this question before it gets asked, in order to get the Neon-specific hoses, you have to buy the entire fuel tank assembly from Dodge.

 

^ good stuff!

That's right, carbon canister. Couldn't remember, thank you.

I haven't looked at the carbon canister on my neon, but the one on my Durango uses 3/8" vacuum type lines (rubber fuel lines would work too). Not sure if this would work as a cheaper fix, but if you can snake it around everything you might get lucky.

 

You'd have to get a few extra feet and find somewhere to route it, but it's a possibility I guess. Not worth the hassle IMO since it's a molded hose. It makes an almost immediate 180° J-bend right off of the canister. You have to be very careful taking them off to, as one end goes onto a hard plastic line, which can snap very easily. Get some pliers and twist it back and forth gently, if possible, before trying to remove it.

 

Oh, I hear ya! But was thinking of a more "stuck on the side of the road" situation, or even at the inspection shop and not passing due to EVAP hose crack... quick fix in a pinch.

Hopefully, Jeff (OPer) got the issues worked out.

 

Yeah, pretty good idea for that!

 

I agree the starter relay could cause it to not start, but I wouldn't think that it would kill the engine while running. Thanks for all the pointers on chasing down the EVAP (vacuum leak). How can those plastic lines be any benefit besides revenue for the parts dept? Again I can't think of any way that a vacuum leak would block a signal to the starter. Since this issue happened, I haven't been able to replicate the symptoms?! So I can't trace how or why something is failing, go figure. Crossing my fingers that it won't happen again. Sadly I no longer trust the car since I didn't "fix" anything. I can only jump on the "opportunity" to test signals etc if it arises again..
Thanks again for all the help!

 

Still haven't had the car die, go figure. Looked into the EVAP leak though. Didn't find any cracked plastic or rubber lines, but did notice a nipple on the throttle body wide open. Looked through my Chilton to find a pic of what it connects to and it seems to just be capped off. Plugged this and pulled the fuel pump fuse to reset the computer. CEL stayed off for a couple days but came back, P 0455 Large EVAP leak again. I did notice the rubber boots fit sloppy to my valve cover. Is it normal for these to be loose or should they be tight?
Thanks again