Ok,thanks for all the advise...going to work on it tomorrow...
Got another question...

going to drop trans pan and change filter...whats the best way to reseal the pan?

in the past i always used a gasket and applied either Copper coat to the gasket or high tack..
Now im told on this to just use RTV black?
Kit came with a gasket.
someone said to use the gasket and just put grease on the gasket..ever hear of that?
Should i use the gasket and use RTV?
If i just use RTV,does it have to sit overnight to cure before i can run it?

also after filter is on,i plan on adding fluid,removing th supply hose and starting it and pumping out all the fluid/coolant mix..figured on doing this a couple times..is this ok?

TIA
Joe

 

I've just used the gasket that came in the kit, tightened the bolts like you should, and I haven't had any leaks. The ATF-RTV (you have to have the ATF stuff) is a bit more involved and you'll be out the car for a day, doing it properly.

If there is a coolant/ATF mixture, you should start flushing it before you change the filter.

 

i myself like to use a very thin skin of RTV on the gasket both sides, this helps hold the gasket to the trans while installing pan.

make sure all mating surfaces are oil free and you will never leak, I like to wipe surfaces down with Acetone to clean em up.

 

Just wanted to thank all for the advise.Installed a new radiator,flushed the system,replaced the t-stat again,it was a failsafe and it was stuck open,flushed the heater core,changed the trans filter,flushed it out ,used about 16 quarts til it ran clean...had to double clamp the cooler lines,new radiator nipples were different and the return one seeped ,so i double clamped it.
Filled and bled system,drove fine afterwards,lucked out,so far so good witht he trans.
When i was under checking for any leaks,i noticed the lower torque strut is broken.checked on here for how to's and it seemes pretty straight forward.Anything i need to watch for?...i see where i have to do the alignment procedure...do i need to loosen both bolts on both struts or just the frame and strut tower bolts?
any chance i can place a jack under it first and have it be in proper specs without having to align it?...and should i replace the upper at the same time..looks ok,shows minor cracks in the rubber....also,dealer parts or is autozone ok?...
Thanks again
Joe D

 

You don't loosen any part of the strut to do the alignment procedure. You loosen the mounting bolt that connects to the car itself.

No, you should perform the alignment either way to make sure.

"If it ain't broken, don't fix it."

Most parts stores carry the Anchor brand mounts...they are fine by me.

 

Thats what i meant..i didnt mean the strut bolts,i meant both strut mount bolts.
I have read it 2 different ways..one way said to just loosen the strut mount bolts at the strut tower and frame,the other said to loosen both bolts on both strut mounts...which is right?

Thanks again for your time

 

I loosened both. Figured it wouldn't hurt to make sure they could be move freely on both ends.

 

Cool thanks,thats what i'll do....

Now...this morning driving the car,the check engine light came on.Had code pulled,P0128 for coolant temp too low....
I havent had time to check into it yet but im guessing maybe that 'failsafe' t-stat is stuck open...first one i put in did this.....
What else should i look for if this is ok?
If its stuck,is it better to get the stock style ?

 

If the T-Stat is stuck open, the coolant won't stay in the engine long enough to warm up properly. Not sure what a "fail-safe" T-Stat is, but it sounds like it failed if it's stuck open. Just get an OE replacement.

 

Failsafe T-stat is one they sell at Autozone,guaranteed to fail open ..took out stat,it was stuck open...returned it and went to Pep Boys and got a Stant OEM replacement..works fine so far...
Never buy another one of those..second one to fail open on this car...
Dont see any reason for it to be stuck open,engine never ran hot after radiator replacement...only thing i can think of is the weather here in the midwest has been horrible,high 90's/100's with heat index at 110...maybe its just too hot for that style t-stat

Thanks for all your help and putting up with all my questions.

Joe D