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Yeah how do you get a read out. The person who wrote this post how did he get a read out of the TPS volts . I have been told it's a program that runs on a laptop.
Thanks for the info, but I thought there was a easy way through the computer to hook up a program that runs on a laptop. That's what one of my mechanics told me but I can't seem to find him now. Thanks again for the info.
We have been through this many a time here and I have boiled it down to the motor mount and the fact that it's water filled. There is a sticky just for this issue. Right now the only way I can drive this car is to turn the motor mount bolt out half a turn and it settles down. I have done it all and it still idles rough and i have done everything you have done up above. Still waiting for the solution to this problem ! And BTW I'm pretty sure this is why he sold the car it's very annoying to have the car shake all the time it drives me up the wall and the gas mileage is really bad on my car too i never get more than 20mpg .
Yes, mileage sucks. But that means that there is a problem with the fuel/air ratio. The mounts have to be replaced on mine. I will wait till spring to replace the timing belt and water pump and install a new "rear mount". The guy who sold me the car works with me. He got used to the vibration and bad idle, but bought a new truck and didn't want to pay insurance for this car.
'I'm hoping the new ECM I purchased will fix at least the way the IAC/TPS work at idle, because the IAC is not opening enough to compensate for load, and at city speed it wants to open all the way and return to close very slowly and hang the RPMs at around 1000 making it really annoying when coming to a stop, jerking and trying to go forward. I also found a leak yesterday that might be normal coming from the throttle plate shaft. Anyway I purchased a whole throttle assemby with sensors an all. I will throw that in and see if it makes any difference.
I finally replaced my messed up throttle body yesterday, though reused sensors, and things are better for sure. There is still some vibration (and I will always have at least some with the torque strut inserts), but it hasn't yet been as bad as it was before.
Thanks for the info, but I thought there was a easy way through the computer to hook up a program that runs on a laptop. That's what one of my mechanics told me but I can't seem to find him now. Thanks again for the info.
Digital voltmeter. One of the leads works at a constant 5 volts while the other two are ground and positive feedback. Hook up the positive wire from the voltmeter to the wire that provides feedback to the ECM and the negative to any ground and see what you get You will need a safety pin or something like that to reach the copper wiring in the connector). That will be the value for idle. Move the throttle slowly with your hand until you reach WOT observing the values. The voltage should be progressive and must not have any drops or fluctuations. That way you'll know that your TPS works properly, though they are known to have static noise that can be overlooked by this procedure and could have an impact at idle. Also, don't forget to check if the TPS is getting a good ground.
I finally replaced my messed up throttle body yesterday, though reused sensors, and things are better for sure. There is still some vibration (and I will always have at least some with the torque strut inserts), but it hasn't yet been as bad as it was before.
Glad it's getting better. I hope your mileage improves as well.
12-06-2011, 11:23 PM
