Check your compression. I'll use Torque tomorrow and see what results I get unless I have to go out again tonight. Did you do the test with the engine cold or at normal operating temp?

 

This is what I got with the engine at normal operational temp and WOT


This is with the engine cold at WOT

 

short term is around -2 long term around -10 .. not sure if that is a good figure but before i changed the o2 sensor they were both at +24.2 ..

If the belt was a little stretched or a failing tensoner would it slack off the belt say half a tooth and cause the low power, poor acceleration and the poor fuel mileage..

did a compression test today had 205, 210, 215, 205 so i am pretty sure the engine is healthy..

would advanced or retarded timing cause it to run rich and burnout the o2?

perhaps a fuel injector is going bad and either delivering too much fuel or not enough and the computer senses a lean condition and fattens the mixture up even more?

 

Looks pretty close to mine...

Think i might hit the local upull tommorow and pull a set of injectors and try some different ones out and see what happens..

 

I need help Again... i need a Idle Air Control for a 2000 Plymouth Neon 2.0L!!!! =(

 

Start your own thread please

 

Well car is at the muffler shop getting the cat tested.. They were saying that chances are if the cat is bad it would have thrown the CEL light on with a catalyist ineffiecient code. I have tried unplugging the knock sensor this morning on my way to work and it still is acting up.. I am really hopeing that this cat is plugged and this is my answer. I have swapped out basically all the sensors, so i have only 2 options left. either the timing belt is off a Half a tooth, or the cat is plugged...

 

Got the car back from the muffler shop, they say the cat is free and clear... So the next step i guess is to tear down the timing cover and double check the marks.

If the belt was off a half of tooth would it still run decently but lack major power?

I am wondering if maybe the waterpump was changed and they were off a half of tooth or something when it was put back together... However i do not have any crank to cam correlation codes.

Also when the car is acting up i show -5% short term fuel trim and it hovers around -15% fuel trim. at an idle i am showing a 0% short term, and a -5% long term... Still not sure if these values are correct, or if my problems lies deeper..

 

If your timing was off then you would most likely show low compression across the board..

What does it do exactly when it acts up?

 

Update! : so i pulled the timing cover off and lined up tdc on the crank and just as i expected the top mark didn't line up , it was the next tooth forward. Waterpump was leaking, and bearing was starting to go (made marbley noises) when i spun it by hand. So luckily i didnt chalk it up to just a slow *** atx neon.

The original problem was that the car ran fine at idle and at full throttle it pulled pretty hard however while driving normally at 50-80 kms an hour it was an absolute dog to accelerate. and with the a/c on it was almost undriveable. Grampa in his scooter could accelerate faster than this car.


I didnt see any mopar writing or any chrsyler part numbers on the belt. all i could make out was "made in italy" I am starting to think that someone changed the belt but didn't take the time to line it up properly.. The tensioner was the hydraulic one, luckily the timing belt kit i got came with the mechanical tensioner..

So after about an hour of taking the new belt on and off, and trying to line up the marks i found the sweet spot and i got'er dead nuts.

I did notice however when i was rotating the crank over twice to check the marks the belt wanted to walk itself off the pulleys.. Wondering if possibly i got the tensioner too tight .. Looks like i got it lined up in the "window" though. Anyone else have that problem like the belt wants to walk itself off?

i sure hope when i get this all back together tommorow the car will run like a top.