Changed shift cable. Still problem. Please HELP!!
Hi! I was having trouble with my shift cable on 2002 Neon (normal engine). The cable had first fallen off the attachment post on the cam, but I reattached it. Then I was driving last week, stopped in drive with foot on brake and went to shift to reverse; I noticed some tension was gone and it remained going forward. I realized after a few minutes of trying to shift that I had "lost" neutral, park and reverse ... it (the system) wasn't engaging with those gears. I finally had to turn the car off; it wouldn't start as neutral and park wouldn't engage. A friend towed the car to the house, stuck in drive gear, I guess.
Here is what I have done so far: replaced shift cable with cable from salvage yard (2001). I got it all changed out, and now
the car starts (some progress!) and therefore must be engaged with park (where the adjustor is indicating, anyway) but I went to shift and the cable won't move to allow me OUT of park. I am thinking it has to do with the interlock cable; as I removed it from the slot and noticed it shortened up and I could not then reseat the wire into the small groove on the cam. Also, I had disconnected the shift cable from the transmission connection and I can move the shifter back and forth through all gears, though a bit stiffly. Oh, before I took off the interlock cable (in center console area), I could not push down on the shift post. At all. Oh, I also tried adjusting the screw on the shift cable itself; that doesn't help as the cable itself won't move forward toward the gears as long as the interlock cable is attached.
Please, if anyone can help tell me if I seem to be on right track ... I am going to lose my job if I can't get this resolved. Living in the middle of nowhere and doing all the work myself on the car by necessity. I was pleased as punch when I got done and the car started, but my manual isn't showing me a good description of the interlock and how to adjust it, especially under the recent circumstances.
Here is what I have done so far: replaced shift cable with cable from salvage yard (2001). I got it all changed out, and now
Please, if anyone can help tell me if I seem to be on right track ... I am going to lose my job if I can't get this resolved. Living in the middle of nowhere and doing all the work myself on the car by necessity. I was pleased as punch when I got done and the car started, but my manual isn't showing me a good description of the interlock and how to adjust it, especially under the recent circumstances.
Not too sure if the cable from the '01 will work because the '01 is a 3 speed auto and '02 is a 4 speed auto. For the hell of it, take off the shift handle. There's a torx screw on the front of it. Take that out and take off the handle and see if you can shift out of park by pushing the button with your thumb.
Hi; I double and triple checked a few things and it appears the shift cable for the '01 should work (http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p...5274750AF.html). They have a very nice fitment/application section
and I checked to see all the transmissions were covered. I also bookmarked their site for future and faster reference.
I still have the top of the shift lever off (and the screw) and no, it is not pushing in. Before I changed the cable, it was sticking at times and I was able to bear down a bit with the end of a flat tool. I also cleaned the area as much as possible as over time, some drink spillage had gotten in there. Brake lights work fine
The cable seems to be correct and I know that I've got it all installed correctly. The fact that the top of the shift lever won't release and that it won't shift AT ALL makes me think maybe the interlock is maladjusted; however I did try adjusting it according to the manual.
The only other thing I have noticed is the mounting lever for the cable in the engine compartment does not seem to move (freely) and I read something about switches (park/neutral) or something for each gear (range sensor?) but need to go back and find the info, plus someone on a post mentioned some problems and said there is something under the battery tray that may benefit from WD-40.
I am understanding the manual transmission definitely has bushings that fail and will cause problems, but am still learning this stuff and haven't found anything in my manual about bushings. But since the cable is off a salvage car, just wondering if "exposure" could be a problem, too?
So basically, since the cable WILL pull out if I remove it from the plastic seating collar (interior), I'm thinking it is "locked" in park ... it was in drive and would not engage park for anything the other night, though. I was so thrilled when I thought I was finished and turned the key and it started.
I appreciate the mention of the interchangeability of parts, too, Buddhaman, since I am fairly new to all this and THAT would be too much, to fight with the thing for all kinds of time and find out it's a square peg for a round hole. So now I will think to check BEFORE I head to salvage or elsewhere.
and I checked to see all the transmissions were covered. I also bookmarked their site for future and faster reference. I still have the top of the shift lever off (and the screw) and no, it is not pushing in. Before I changed the cable, it was sticking at times and I was able to bear down a bit with the end of a flat tool. I also cleaned the area as much as possible as over time, some drink spillage had gotten in there. Brake lights work fine
The cable seems to be correct and I know that I've got it all installed correctly. The fact that the top of the shift lever won't release and that it won't shift AT ALL makes me think maybe the interlock is maladjusted; however I did try adjusting it according to the manual.
The only other thing I have noticed is the mounting lever for the cable in the engine compartment does not seem to move (freely) and I read something about switches (park/neutral) or something for each gear (range sensor?) but need to go back and find the info, plus someone on a post mentioned some problems and said there is something under the battery tray that may benefit from WD-40.
I am understanding the manual transmission definitely has bushings that fail and will cause problems, but am still learning this stuff and haven't found anything in my manual about bushings. But since the cable is off a salvage car, just wondering if "exposure" could be a problem, too?
So basically, since the cable WILL pull out if I remove it from the plastic seating collar (interior), I'm thinking it is "locked" in park ... it was in drive and would not engage park for anything the other night, though. I was so thrilled when I thought I was finished and turned the key and it started.
I appreciate the mention of the interchangeability of parts, too, Buddhaman, since I am fairly new to all this and THAT would be too much, to fight with the thing for all kinds of time and find out it's a square peg for a round hole. So now I will think to check BEFORE I head to salvage or elsewhere.
My understanding was that the car wouldn't shift out drive ... Not in my neon, but I had another little 4 cylinder and when that heppened to me it was a blown fuse. I couldn't shift out of gear and then it would get out of 2nd. I changed the blown fuse (after quite some time trying many other options) and the car ran fine after that ...
Fuses too. Thanks, Tatertodd. I actually should check those, as the car has passed 190k and can't think when I changed one. I was told that I maybe do have a bad cable, as it won't move through the plastic housing (that sits in the collar that also mounts the interlink).
I know the old one has all the insulation around the metal cable torn off and that starts right beyond where the cable enters that plastic housing and a few inches beyond. Not really understanding why there's not something I can do to ease it so it WILL move, but there's probably a reason.
This is the second replacement and I found all kinds of goo under the shift bezel; first time it happened was in the winter and the cable was bound for the first 20 minutes or so, so I think that maybe stuff that gets down there gets in the housing, and when it was frozen goo, made it impossible to move the cable through that housing guide, but once the car warmed up ... at least that is my theory.
Anyway, I am going to the salvage yard in the morning and will CHECK to see the cable slides before getting it ... I am learning a lot but there is a lot to know ... eventually though I ought to be able to answer some simple questions or make intelligent suggestions. There are fortunately quite a few Neons there. And I know my timing belt needs to be changed so maybe I can finish working out how to get in there, too.
I know the old one has all the insulation around the metal cable torn off and that starts right beyond where the cable enters that plastic housing and a few inches beyond. Not really understanding why there's not something I can do to ease it so it WILL move, but there's probably a reason.
This is the second replacement and I found all kinds of goo under the shift bezel; first time it happened was in the winter and the cable was bound for the first 20 minutes or so, so I think that maybe stuff that gets down there gets in the housing, and when it was frozen goo, made it impossible to move the cable through that housing guide, but once the car warmed up ... at least that is my theory.
Anyway, I am going to the salvage yard in the morning and will CHECK to see the cable slides before getting it ... I am learning a lot but there is a lot to know ... eventually though I ought to be able to answer some simple questions or make intelligent suggestions. There are fortunately quite a few Neons there. And I know my timing belt needs to be changed so maybe I can finish working out how to get in there, too.


