Is the check engine light on while the engine has the loping idle? It should be.

Maybe water got into the PCM connectors, or the fuse box. Do you think any water could have got into it?

Do you have a scan tool you can plug in while the engine is running?

There should be another code stored besides the P1684 if it's running and acting up at the moment.

Maybe the PCM is acting up from it going into the water.

One more thing is the ASD relay in the fuse box, it provides power to the IACV idle air control valve.

 

Engine light does not come on. Water most likely soaked everything when he went through it. but if that was the case why would the car function after the rebuild and only start messing up after the 2 hr drive. I have no scan tool.

 

Well maybe you should start checking for any corrosion on all the connectors and grounds.

And swap the ASD relay with one next to it.

And since your not sure what else to check, check the connections on the alternator.

If you have a volt meter, you can make sure the voltage checks the same at the IACV idle air control valve connector as it does on the battery terminals.

 

So i go outside today unplug the battery again and wait a few minutes before plugging it in again. I get in the car do the key trick error code:

1684: Battery Loss in the Last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts

comes up. I then try to start the car, the engine turns but it doesn't start. I try several times still doesn't start. I do the key trick and get error codes:

1684: Battery Loss in the Last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts

0320: No Crank Reference Signal at PCM No reference signal (crankshaft position sensor) detected during engine cranking

Could the entire issue with everything be that the crank sensor is bad? could it have been causing the bad idle, the engine stalling in reverse and causing the engine to stall after driving a short distance and causing the engine to to stall when the wheel is turned in park? I don't want to end up buying another sensor and have it not being the problem and waste more money is their a way to check?

 

Yes it could be bad, but I would check the grounds & wiring where it plugs in to the crank sensor first.

And then take the sensor out and make sure nothing is stuck to the magnet on the crank sensor.

I just thought of something else, did the new crankshaft look identical or have marks or cutouts in the same place as the old one?

 

It did

 

Ok good, I thought it would be

I would take the crank sensor out before getting a new one.

 

What do you mean take it out before getting a new one. You mean as to take with to store to compare or?

 

I mean take the crank sensor out and make sure it's clean and nothing stuck to it first.

 

So I started to remove the the wire connecting to the crank sensor when I noticed the wire harness was frayed near it so I unconnected it from the alternator, oil pressure sensor and speed sensor to get a closer look. I cut away some of the frayed wrap and found two wires that go to the crank sensor damaged. one of them was nearly completely severed and the other had the copper wiring exposed. I removed some of the wire from both ends and spliced in a new piece of wire soldered it in place covered it in heat shrink then electrical tape. I then wrapped electrical tape around all the area of the wire harness which had exposed wire. Connected the harness back up and then used 2 heavy zip ties to anchor the wire in place. The car now runs again fine there is no check engine light anymore nor is the battery light on any more. When I check for errors the only one that comes up is:

1684: Battery Loss in the Last 50 Starts The battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts

The only problem that remains i that when the break is pressed and car comes to stop there is a bit of vibration but as soon as the brake is released and the car starts moving the vibration completely vanishes. Also when the car is in park or neutral the vibration is not present.