possible to over torque engine mounts? crazy vibrations at idle+steering wheel
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To further keep the situation updated, I feel vibration when touching the engine (obviously), I don't feel any vibration in the upper nor the actual bolt that goes through the upper, and I kinda did expect to feel vibration somewhere with that.
Either way, the only thing that seemed to happen when getting the alignment properly is how the driver-side fender now seems to make a high-pitched "rubbing" sound. Almost as if something is shimmying two pieces of metal together.
Either way, I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow and can't wait to see what this one says considering the last 2 pretty much said "oh this vibration? seems normal to me". lol
I kinda want to wait until the last possible case to go drilling the 1/8" hole in the TB plate that a bunch of people say makes the engine idle just enough to cause vibrations to go away. Apparently TB's aren't something AutoZone's/Advanced Auto's carry so I'm guessing if that makes it worse I'm probably looking at $200+ for a new TB.
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Joined: Aug 2012
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From: Virginia
[QUOTE=alturic;3136147]
Yes, have a tach, at idle (from cold start) 1k rpm, no vibration. After the car has "warmed up" for a few minutes, idle drops to 600-700, and then obviously when I turn the wheel full left or right it dips a tad and vibration was crazy.
Sounds like your idle is in the ideal range. I see no reason to try to raise it any.
Yes, have a tach, at idle (from cold start) 1k rpm, no vibration. After the car has "warmed up" for a few minutes, idle drops to 600-700, and then obviously when I turn the wheel full left or right it dips a tad and vibration was crazy.
Sounds like your idle is in the ideal range. I see no reason to try to raise it any.
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[QUOTE=richards83;3141105]
Oh yea, that's the whole thing, the idle is how it always was. The only reason people go crazy with trying to raise idle is because of the vibrations with AM mounts. Some people simply tweak the TB screw, others drill 1/8 hole into the TB plate which appears to be the "majority" fix and others simply go back to OEM mounts to solve the vibrations.
I really don't know what route I want to go as I don't want to simply mask the problem but I also don't want to spend $400+ on OEM mounts either. Ideally I would probably go the TB plate route but with TB's not being something that AutoZones/AdvancedAutos seem to carry I don't want to be waiting on a special order or anything heh. I suppose I could have them order it and then just return it if the problem if fixed by drilling the hole but I like being prepared for possible issues. I suppose I could also clean the TB/IAC valve and see what happens but meh. This "feature" of low *** idle rpms is silly.
Yes, have a tach, at idle (from cold start) 1k rpm, no vibration. After the car has "warmed up" for a few minutes, idle drops to 600-700, and then obviously when I turn the wheel full left or right it dips a tad and vibration was crazy.
Sounds like your idle is in the ideal range. I see no reason to try to raise it any.
Sounds like your idle is in the ideal range. I see no reason to try to raise it any.
I really don't know what route I want to go as I don't want to simply mask the problem but I also don't want to spend $400+ on OEM mounts either. Ideally I would probably go the TB plate route but with TB's not being something that AutoZones/AdvancedAutos seem to carry I don't want to be waiting on a special order or anything heh. I suppose I could have them order it and then just return it if the problem if fixed by drilling the hole but I like being prepared for possible issues. I suppose I could also clean the TB/IAC valve and see what happens but meh. This "feature" of low *** idle rpms is silly.