IAC valve sticks
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
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IAC valve sticks
IAC valve
do I have to buy a new one or can I make it work I tried cleaning it with break cleaner
and using 12v to Make it work for about 10 miles now it’s choking out again could I maybe have a short in the wires anyone have any luck fixing/cleaning them a new one is $112 and I don’t really have that to spend on it rn
do I have to buy a new one or can I make it work I tried cleaning it with break cleaner
and using 12v to Make it work for about 10 miles now it’s choking out again could I maybe have a short in the wires anyone have any luck fixing/cleaning them a new one is $112 and I don’t really have that to spend on it rn
Captain
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 529
Likes: 18
From: SW Va
You may have damaged it using a plastic UN-friendly recipe like brake cleaner, that's designed for metal parts. Have a read in this post https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post3471502, its just above your last post in this thread.
As noted in my post, cleaning may not last, it didn't for me but was a good trouble shooting step for me in trouble shooting my Ranger IAC woes.
You could try a salvage yard, price would likely be right, or at least negotiable, or if you want new, maybe consider a BWD brand, as they also make OEM parts. The Ranger got a new BWD IAC from Advance with a 40% off promo code about 10 years ago.
As noted in my post, cleaning may not last, it didn't for me but was a good trouble shooting step for me in trouble shooting my Ranger IAC woes.
You could try a salvage yard, price would likely be right, or at least negotiable, or if you want new, maybe consider a BWD brand, as they also make OEM parts. The Ranger got a new BWD IAC from Advance with a 40% off promo code about 10 years ago.
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2020
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could it be the wiring I mean I know it can but it seems if I wiggle the wires around the mass air flow Sensor and around it seems as tho it will sorta work... I think I might look for a short before I go for parts
You may have damaged it using a plastic UN-friendly recipe like brake cleaner, that's designed for metal parts. Have a read in this post https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...ml#post3471502, its just above your last post in this thread.
As noted in my post, cleaning may not last, it didn't for me but was a good trouble shooting step for me in trouble shooting my Ranger IAC woes.
You could try a salvage yard, price would likely be right, or at least negotiable, or if you want new, maybe consider a BWD brand, as they also make OEM parts. The Ranger got a new BWD IAC from Advance with a 40% off promo code about 10 years ago.
As noted in my post, cleaning may not last, it didn't for me but was a good trouble shooting step for me in trouble shooting my Ranger IAC woes.
You could try a salvage yard, price would likely be right, or at least negotiable, or if you want new, maybe consider a BWD brand, as they also make OEM parts. The Ranger got a new BWD IAC from Advance with a 40% off promo code about 10 years ago.
Captain
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 529
Likes: 18
From: SW Va
Good idea to have given the IAC & its wiring a wiggle test to see if it would act out, or clear up if it was acting out. Sure, it could be something as simple as corrosion inside the electrical connector pins/sockets, or a faulty crimp on one of the wires, or maybe the connector isn't fully seated, or the connectors retainer/s aren't engaged or are broken & its backing out & loosing electrical contact inside, or the pins / sockets are bent or spread from such & aren't making lasting contact.
So continue to give it a good wiggle / thump test & visual inspection to see if you can narrow down the suspect area. Maybe you have a intermittent operating voltage to the IAC???
Seeing as how it seemed to POP loose when tested, remove & inspect / clean it with a safe spray cleaner like CRC MAF sensor cleaner to see if you can free its movement up..
If the brake fluid cleaner got inside, it could have removed insulation from the solenoid winding coil wire & they're shorting out causing its function to be wimpy, or intermittent???
If its still dirty & mucked up with gum, or vrnish, it can make it intermittent. Well you get the idea, the list of possibilities goes on & on.
If your loosing IAC function, it should be setting a trouble code clue for the problem, another reason to be running a good diagnostic software on your viewing device, to help narrow down the suspect list. Let us know what you find.
So continue to give it a good wiggle / thump test & visual inspection to see if you can narrow down the suspect area. Maybe you have a intermittent operating voltage to the IAC???
Seeing as how it seemed to POP loose when tested, remove & inspect / clean it with a safe spray cleaner like CRC MAF sensor cleaner to see if you can free its movement up..
If the brake fluid cleaner got inside, it could have removed insulation from the solenoid winding coil wire & they're shorting out causing its function to be wimpy, or intermittent???
If its still dirty & mucked up with gum, or vrnish, it can make it intermittent. Well you get the idea, the list of possibilities goes on & on.
If your loosing IAC function, it should be setting a trouble code clue for the problem, another reason to be running a good diagnostic software on your viewing device, to help narrow down the suspect list. Let us know what you find.