SUPER N00b!!!!
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Joined: Jan 2006
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SUPER N00b!!!!
I just bought a new 2005 Neon SXT this is MY FIRST CAR EVER AND I LOVE IT. Im trying to learn about products to tune it but i have a couple of questions first.
1) Is my car a DOHC or SOHC and what is the meaning of these?
2) Is it really helpful to put in my car a front strut? Can it take a rear strut also?
3) With is a good CAI and cat back exhaust to buy?
If you can post lick for these products that would me nice. Thanx
1) Is my car a DOHC or SOHC and what is the meaning of these?
2) Is it really helpful to put in my car a front strut? Can it take a rear strut also?
3) With is a good CAI and cat back exhaust to buy?
If you can post lick for these products that would me nice. Thanx
RE: SUPER N00b!!!!
ORIGINAL: Ataraxio
1) Is my car a DOHC or SOHC and what is the meaning of these?
1) Is my car a DOHC or SOHC and what is the meaning of these?
SOHC = Single OverHead Cam
You have an SOHC. No 2nd gen Neon's (SE/SXT/RT 2000-2005) have DOHC.
Here's some in depth info on what DOHC means... http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question562.htm
ORIGINAL: Ataraxio
3) With is a good CAI and cat back exhaust to buy?
3) With is a good CAI and cat back exhaust to buy?
ModernPerformance.com
HowellAutomotive.com
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Joined: Dec 2005
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RE: SUPER N00b!!!!
well dude i dont know what kind of sound your looking for but i like the really deep sounding exhaust. i dont like the really loud and obnoxious rice rocket honda crappy sound. so i went with dual magnaflow exhaust. it is a very deep and rich sounding exhaust and i would recommend it to everyone. but then again i just suppose it is a matter of how much money you want to spend. good luck, oh yeah and ask capser about your strut problem i dont think i understand your question there...
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RE: SUPER N00b!!!!
The same site (www.howstuffworks.com) should also have information on suspension parts like struts. Unless you are planning on autocrossing, forget the suspension for now until you really understand how the parts work together (struts, springs, sway bars, etc.). To start you off:
- the springs (one per corner) are the main plan of attack in controlling body roll. The spring rate is measured in pounds/inch (or kg/mm). So a 150 lb/in spring will compress 1 inch with 150 pounds on top of it. We're assuming, of course, that the spring is a linear rate spring, meaning the rate never changes no matter how far the spring is compressed (the stock springs are like this). A stiffer spring means less compression for the same weight. Since weight transfers in a corner, that means less body roll at the same speed. Less body roll means better suspension geometry and more predictable handling.
- the struts (one per spring) stop the spring from being a pogo stick. You've seen cars that hit a bump or dip and bounce for miles afterwards... those cars have blown struts typically. Strut dampening rates are measured in inches per second. So your 150 lb/in spring will always compress 1 inch for every 150 pounds, but the strut determines how long it takes to compress (and decompress). These rates are determined by the "valving" (usually a series of orifaces) inside the body of the strut that allow passage of fuid (i.e. oil). There is such a thing as struts being valved too stiff for a set of springs (massively harsh ride, usually causes headaches), and there is such a thing as a strut valved too soft for a set of springs (bouncy ride, very similar to a pogo stick...), and the weight on that corner plays into the equation as well, but that's another discussion... Your stock struts and springs are pretty well matched. If you aren't going with a stiffer spring, you really don't need a stiffer strut. Also, just because a strut is aftermarket with a cool sounding name and a free sticker doesn't make it stiffer or better in any way. Ditto for springs...
If you're looking at strut tower bars, they're not something you really need. The Neon's frame was set up well in that respect. A strut tower bar links the top of the struts together so in seriously tight corners (the kind you shouldn't take without upgrading your springs, struts, and sway bars first...), there's less flex, and less effect on suspension geometry. If you look at a lot of older/bigger cars, you'll notice the strut towers are often a good 2-3 feet forward of the firewall. Then look at the Neon... the firewall is already acting as a strut tower, at least more than most cars... And in the rear you have the rear shelf mounted directly above the struts doing the same thing. So unless you've found a killer deal and really like the look, don't bother.
Best of luck!
- the springs (one per corner) are the main plan of attack in controlling body roll. The spring rate is measured in pounds/inch (or kg/mm). So a 150 lb/in spring will compress 1 inch with 150 pounds on top of it. We're assuming, of course, that the spring is a linear rate spring, meaning the rate never changes no matter how far the spring is compressed (the stock springs are like this). A stiffer spring means less compression for the same weight. Since weight transfers in a corner, that means less body roll at the same speed. Less body roll means better suspension geometry and more predictable handling.
- the struts (one per spring) stop the spring from being a pogo stick. You've seen cars that hit a bump or dip and bounce for miles afterwards... those cars have blown struts typically. Strut dampening rates are measured in inches per second. So your 150 lb/in spring will always compress 1 inch for every 150 pounds, but the strut determines how long it takes to compress (and decompress). These rates are determined by the "valving" (usually a series of orifaces) inside the body of the strut that allow passage of fuid (i.e. oil). There is such a thing as struts being valved too stiff for a set of springs (massively harsh ride, usually causes headaches), and there is such a thing as a strut valved too soft for a set of springs (bouncy ride, very similar to a pogo stick...), and the weight on that corner plays into the equation as well, but that's another discussion... Your stock struts and springs are pretty well matched. If you aren't going with a stiffer spring, you really don't need a stiffer strut. Also, just because a strut is aftermarket with a cool sounding name and a free sticker doesn't make it stiffer or better in any way. Ditto for springs...
If you're looking at strut tower bars, they're not something you really need. The Neon's frame was set up well in that respect. A strut tower bar links the top of the struts together so in seriously tight corners (the kind you shouldn't take without upgrading your springs, struts, and sway bars first...), there's less flex, and less effect on suspension geometry. If you look at a lot of older/bigger cars, you'll notice the strut towers are often a good 2-3 feet forward of the firewall. Then look at the Neon... the firewall is already acting as a strut tower, at least more than most cars... And in the rear you have the rear shelf mounted directly above the struts doing the same thing. So unless you've found a killer deal and really like the look, don't bother.
Best of luck!