Fidanza Cam Gear - The nuts stick out very far, they can be stripped, there are just too many points to loosen then tighten down when adjusting the timing...
Alternative - Get an AEM

AF/X Bobble Strut - Known to slip out of preload, known to bind up, known to cause excessive vibrations, known to just overall be a pain in the *** to work with...
Alternative - Get a Booger Bobble

Eibach Sportlines - They will blow struts, the ride is just too harsh... Unless your car is a show car, do not get these springs (even when used with KYB's)... Consider getting coilovers...
Alternative - Get High Rates

MPP DOHC ECU in a SOHC Car - Unless your going to tune the fuel, this combo isnt worth it by any means... Personally I would just save up the money and jump to an AF/X Race (unless your gas is junk, your area is very hot, or you live in a very high climate, then stay with MPP)...

Cam Timing (SOHC) - A basic thing to keep in mind is that when you retard (pull backwards) the cam timing it will give you more top end power, and when you advance (push foreward) the cam timing it will give you more low end power... This isnt always true and of course depending on your engine setup this may vary... At times you can adjust your cam and actually loose power instead of gaining power... As always proper tuning should be done on a DYNO and once a Adj. cam gear is installed its always best (and safest) to install it at Zero... And more isnt always best, pulling back or pushing foreward the cam timing can result in power LOSS... Use a Dyno... Remember when installing a SOHC gear, torque it down at 85' LBS to the cam...

Note On Crane Cams - When installing a cam gear the cam may not want to just slip right into the cam gear... This is a problem that alot of people have had to face, I have noticed its best to get it on a little then work it on with the bolt that holds it into place... That way it slides on strait... If you ever want to take it off, a small pry-bar works very well, and rock the cam off... Use some 3in1 oil and let it penetrate a little... Be smart, you can damage the cam gear or cam by doing this...

Basic Cam Specs (SOHC) - Different cams give different amounts of power at different times, on different engines... The cam from a 95 neon will give some power, then its the Crane 0010, which is pretty much not worth the money... The Magnum Cam is pretty nice, and very cheap, if you get a Magnum I reccomend getting a valve spring upgrade... Then you have the Crane 0012 which makes a little bit more power then the Magnum but not so much that people get it over the magnum due to the cost... Crane 0014 should be used with raised compression engines, turbo engines, high nitrous motors, definitely get a valve spring upgrade... There are several companies that make cams, but the ones listed are currently the most popular purchased... Titanium retainers are not required, most dont spend the money on them, stock retainers work fine...

SOHC Rockers - The stock rockers on the Neon SOHC are roller rockers with hydraulic adjusters from the factory, so dont worry about upgrading your valve train to roller rockers, it already has them...

Porting SOHC Manifold - If you have a SOHC you can actually port your manifold pretty easily (all SOHC's came with plastic manifolds, except for some 96's) just get a dremel and some sanding tips and go to work... If you port the runners, you can take out the injector humps... Just be sure to fill the little divots above them with some JB weld and let it cure over night or you will go through the top of the manifold...

Headers - There are alot of different ones... Usually the longer the better... Mid length headers give good mid range, some low end, a decient top end... Long tube headers give alot top end, good mid range, almost nothing low end, short headers, they give a little everywhere... CERAMIC COAT your headers... Even if they come triple knickle plated, have it ceramic coated inside and out... This will keep it from rusting and coloring... Plus it will hold heat in better... This is another thing you dont want to go cheap on if you want performance, if you want to go fast, you will want a long tube...

Stay away from JET computers or any "chip" you solder into your wiring harness... It wont provide power... Most advertise injecting more fuel to create more power, how can this be when Neons already run rich... Same goes for any TB risers or Tornado's... Iceman Risers do help to avoid puddles as well as TB risers if you have an Iceman...

Fuel Injectors - Go with stock fuel injectors at all times UNLESS you have a built turbo car that you need the extra fuel... If you do, have a built turbo project, you should be smart enough to know what injectors you need... If your car doesnt have a turbo you dont need different injectors... Stock ones work PERFECTLY...

Spark Plugs - Stock champion coppers work perfectly... Some say NGK's work well also... Just stay away from the splitfires, or +4's or Platinums... Keep the heat range stock unless you have nitrous you might want a colder plug...

Spark Plug Gap - Gap your plugs at .035 or .040...

Spark Plug Wires - Stock works great, if you have a problem with your wires, then go ahead and upgrade... If you do get upgraded wires Magnecores are very well manufactured, but I would have to say to go with MSD wires... I have had Magnecores loose the clipping ability when snapping onto the spark plug, my MSD's work great...

Removeing Power Steering (a.k.a. "P/S") - If you want to remove it, you can either loop the lines at the rack, or leave them open... Pulling the belt is one way of producing more HP, but its gonna' be a pain to turn unless you loop the lines or cut the lines... Once you loop or cut them, turning will be ALOT easier...

Aluminum Flywheels - As always reduceing the rotational mass a vehicle has will increase power, or atleast allow the potential power to be applied... Aluminum flywheels are a great way of reduceing the rotational mass from the crank... Fidanza makes a great flywheel, I have had NO problems with it at all, ever... I have even rebuilt the clutch and used the same flywheel... Spec offers a flywheel that although is light has its problems... Mopar00Neon and NeonHooligan (both personal friends of mine) installed a spec flywheel into Hooligans neon... The threads on the flywheel would not accept the bolts for the flywheel... It looks as though the threads were made then cut over... Damageing the first two or three threads... Nothing chaseing the threads with a tap wont fix, but you shouldnt have to do this in the first place... Stick with Fidanza...

Big Weight On The FMM (Mass Dampener) - Its a ski, so that when your dumb *** hits a curb you dont smash too much of your car... You can take it off for weight redux... DO NOT REMOVE THE FMM, REMOVE THE WEIGHT UNDER THE FMM!

Brace From Oil Pan To Tranny - Its to reduce vibration and just let the car be smoother... It doesnt weigh anything so I kept mine on, I noticed it also helps to prevent dirt into the bell housing...

Brace Going Across (under) The Back Seat - Leave it there, you will thank me if you ever get in a wreck...

Metal Plates Where Your Knees Are At In The dash - If you ever get in a wreck, this prevents your knees from going into the sharp, crooked, jagged area under the dash... Basically it keeps your knees from turning into hamburger meat...

Weight In Center Console - Take it out if your ever in there... It doesnt do anything...

Manually Shifting An ATX - Dont do it! If you must get quicker for a brisk stop light race, or to end the quarter mile a little faster put the car into 2nd and leave it there until about 80mph then shift it into D... Manually shifting first gear will not make you any faster... Manually downshifting a ATX is very bad for it, dont do it trying to look cool and make it seem like you have a stick...

Wanna' be faster in an ATX? - Brake torque... Hold down the brake and hit the gas, dont do it for more then about 20 seconds or so, then let off the brake... DO NOT rev your car in Neutral then drop it into Drive...

ATX Tranny - If you have an ATX tranny install an aftermarket tranny cooler... Especially if the vehicle is raced at all, or driven hard at all... ATX trannys die out prematurely when the tranny gets really hot... If you have an ATX, install an ATX tranny cooler...

 

I've heard of most of those. Although the one about the ecu doesn't really apply to 03+ neons. At least I have yet to hear of anyone swapping out the ecu for something yet.

 

As far as the Fidanza cam gear, what could the bolts hit to make them get stripped?

Cam Timing (SOHC): Remember when installing a SOHC gear, torque it down at 85' LBS to the cam... When they say to torque it at 85' lbs to the cam, that has nothing to do with the bolts on the cam gear right? My directions say to adjust all five bolts at a max of 40-45 inch lbs.

 

BTW: Where did you get this info from?

 

sent pm...not one to post other forum site...bad enough i had a CAP prob....lol.....im all about tryin to get the best info possible. and tryn to help those like myself just tryin to learn and soak in all the + info we can.....thanx

 

i was looking into the sportline springs and the tech told me that a KYb strut would be good, but now i will have to do some research to see if that is true, thanks and if anyone knows about this let me know i do not want to spend 230 dollars for something that is going to kill my struts.....

 

The other Eibach springs should be fine. The sportlines are just way lower.