DIY - Back-Up Lights with Pictures

 
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Old 02-14-2010, 12:38 AM
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Thumbs up DIY - Back-Up Lights with Pictures

Alright this is my first DIY so bear with me.

I am not responsible for any laws you might break by doing this or any damage done to your truck/car.

What you need:

  • 40-50 feet of 14 awg stranded wire
  • Some crimp on connections or a soildering iron and some electrical tape will do.
  • 40-50 feet of wire loom (opt.)
  • A Relay.
  • Electrical tape OR brush/spray on tape.
  • Lights.
  • Self tapping screws
  • Drill
  • Light (opt. But handy)
  • Wire taps (opt.)
  • T-25 Torx bit
  • Bag of zip ties

These are just little $20 lights from autozone. Just wanted something cheep and small. Didn't want my big lights from the spoiler on my hitch, that would be way to big. Im not even sure if mine are water proof. infact I know there not. I cant even find a link to it. But it was $19.99 pilot light. Thats the best I can do.


Time to complete: 3-4 hours max.

Price range: $30-$50 Depending on what you dont have.

First off, You need to put the 40-50 feet of wire in the 40-50 feet of wire loom if your using it.

Second, Take your T-25 screwdriver and open your tailgate, Look to the left where your support cable comes down You will need to remove these two screws:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Place these two screws off to the side, But don't loose them. Now, Your taillight would be loose but now it seems like it wont come out. That's wrong, It will, Just push it over to the left and a gap will appear and you need to grab it there and pull straight back. You should here some pops. But, the light comes out. This is because of these studs:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Now that you've done that you need to run your power wire from your battery. Yes, you MUST do this, The original power wire looks like 20 awg, which is way to small to run the aftermarket lights that we are installing. Ive found that its best to run it along original wires on the driver side frame all the way to the back. Zip tying along the way. When you get to the light Ive found that running it along the original wires is best here too. Right here shows the hole where it comes threw:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Now if you look here:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

You will see the purple w/black striped wire, This is the back up light positive. You will want to strip the rubber instulation back a bit to do one of the following:
  1. Cut and splice in another wire.
  2. Use a wire tap.
But either way you go you need to seal it up. Now the wire you have coming off the purple wire will need to go to pin 86 on the relay as seen here:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

Next, you can connect the positive wire you ran earlyer to the relay, It needs to connect to pin 30. As seen above.

Next, you can make a small jumper wire going from pin 85 to a terminal with a "Fork" On the end. Leave this hanging we will connect the "fork" Later.

Now, run a wire down to the location of your light(s) From the relay location, Put a terminal on the relay side and connect to pin 87. This is now your lights Positive wire.

Moving on, I would suggest you rap the relay with electrical tape or use the brush or spray on kind.

Now, Its time to mount the relay, If you look inside the taillight cavity you will see a small hole in the sheet metal to the left as seen here:

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

I used a self tapping screw and drilled right below and slightly to the right of this hole only because the wire I told you to put a "Fork" on will now use the mounting screw as a ground. Just before you get the relay touching the metal with the screw, take the metal "fork" and put it behind the relay around the screw. And tighten down the screw this will now give you a good ground.

Now, For the light(s) take your positive and run it to the positive on the light(s). As for the ground you can use another "Fork" and the same method of mounting and grounding as was used on the relay.

We can now move to the under hood section. You now have two choices:

  1. Use a switch to give the lights power when you want. (only in Rev.)
  2. Run the power wire your ran earlier to the back to the battery which will make the lights come on at anytime when you put it in rev, Instead of coming on only when in reverse and only with the switch on.
If you do the switch method you have to run a pair of wires to the inside of the cab which you can run threw the rubber grommet on the firewall. then connect them to a switch thats mounted in someway. Now you can go back under the hood where you can now Connect the power wire coming from the relay to one of the pair you just ran inside the cab and the other wire from the pair must go to the battery, It does not matter which of the pair goes where. Now with this method you can turn the lights on and night but leave them off during the day, Remeber this will only turn them off when the switch is off, If the switch is on the truck needs to be in reverse before the lights come on.

We can close the hood now, and move back to the tail light. You may now slid it back into place just like you removed it, the studs first, then push it towards the pass. side and screw in the two T-25 screws. Now you are finished.

Here are my before and after photos:

Before

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

After

Click for full size - Uploaded with plasq's Skitch

These lights are very bright. This is also very helpful when backing up in a lifted truck at night.

Thanks,
Cheat.
 

Last edited by Laramie1997; 02-24-2010 at 02:36 AM. Reason: Adding in what lights you used.
 



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