Thanks for the detailed answer, especially after a long day! Thanks also for the forthcoming "step by step". I'll probably do the job in about a week when the part arrives. I'll send you a text file with pics and my experience with the process so that you can forward it to others should this come up again. It might save you some time (assuming I am successful in executing this mission!). One thing I don't have are torque specs for the valve body, (if there is a torque spec for VB bolts) so if that is something you can offer in your step by step, that would be great!! Again, an enthusiatic THANK YOU!

 

Take the time and read thru this thread https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...smissions.html
and watch the video near the end to familarize yourself with the transmission and then follow Montes instructions.
Also a tip when reinstalling the VB. What I like to do is take 2 wire coat hangars and run them from side to side to use as a sling to hold the VB up while your trying to get the E-Clip on the parking rod.
Gives you 2 hands to do the job instead of 1 trying to hold up the VB.
You can hook them thru the pan bolt holes.

Dave

 

My trans has started "fluttering" during the 1-2 shift, it's almost like it's going back and forth between 1 and 2. The less throttle I use the less it does it, if I go above 1/2 throttle it doesn't do it at all and if I give it just enough to get to the shift point it will do it indefinitely. Fluid is not discolored and does not smell unusual. Did a fluid and filter change, made no difference. There was some gray sludge (clutch material?) on the magnet. The truck is a 01 1500 2wd with the 5.2. Any idea whats wrong?

Thanks in advance.

 

Sounds a little low for the hot side, but it wont hurt anything. May want to block the air flow to the cooler off in the winter.

I more commonly see 180 on the hot side.

 

Gray sludge = metal = normal
Black sludge = clutch material = not normal

I would give your TV cable a tug and see what happens. You may need to update the valvebody.

 

Alright im going to assume you know how to secure a vehicle before you work on it so im going to dive straight into the trans part.

1. remove both external tv cable, and shift cable inkages. Should be nothing on the shift shaft. Unplug the transmission 8 pin connector.

2. drop pan, and drain fluid.

3. Remove 10 (11mm - 7/16) bolts that secure the VB to case. Next remove the E clip that holds the VB to the shift rod. Dont take out the rod, its a pain to put back in.

4. Pull on the valvebody, it will take some persuasion but will drop out, dont pry on it, just use your hands and pull and wiggle it. The entire vb assembly will drop out in one piece with the filter attached.

5. Completely loosen the front band adjuster. Back the screw all the way out. The struts should fall out, dont lose them. Also when you pull the vb down a spring should fall out, a large spring, its ok, thats for the accumulator.

6. Inspect the band (the band should be obvious now) the friction lining should be on its way out.

7. Cut the old band out. Use whatever means necessary. Make sure you clean up your mess, dont want all that inside the transmission.

8. Slip in new band. Set up band struts and anchors, snug down the adjuster screw. Adjust the new band like you would the old one using the same specs.

9. Reinstall the VB, making sure to get the e clip back in. I find that a pair of needle nose pliers work great for installing the clip. Dave has a good suggestion with the close hangers to hold the VB. Make sure that spring that fell out is back in its home sandwiched between the VB and the accumulator piston in the middle.

10. Torque the VB bolts to 115 INCH POUNDS. Put the pan back up and torque the pan bolts to 100 INCH POUNDS.

11. Reinstall the linkages, and the trans connector, fill with fluid and take it for a spin.

If i missed something or something is confusing let me know.

 

Ok, will check the TV cable tomorrow. What do you mean by "update the valve body"? Thanks.

 

thats after a trans flush with filter wile hot in drive on the lift. 35 psi then,was 25-30 before and thats the psi gague on the transtech and to rule out a partially blocked cooler i also hooked up the lines bypassing the radiator cooler with no change.
and thanks for even having this forum you really know your stuff

 

Ok here's another question should the 3-4 shift valve come out of the valve body without separating it?

 

If your changing it WITHOUT changing the harness with it, then I believe you can do it without dropping the valve body. I would change the wiring harness along with it.