std cab rocker replacement
 

Just some pics for fun. I made that inner patch panel with a vice, a couple pieces of 3/16 flat bar, and a small c-clamp. I use a 6" grinding wheel on a repurposed washing machine motor, using an adapter and a stand made out of pipe and an old steel wheel as a base. Started the tear down Saturday, but had a bunch of interruptions. Hope to get the rocker fitted this week, and paint this weekend... might be lofty, day job getting in the way....

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...94efd59e27.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...e3ba13b69e.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...c8b4f45c61.jpg

Nice work on that patch panel!

Any tips for anyone about to do the same to their trucks? I'm hoping to replace my rocker panels this year.

Yeah the patch turned out really nice. Lots of pics please, I need to do this to my truck.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...183634772d.jpg
Had a little bit of time to start preparing for butt welding the rocker in. Its cut to the right size, but there is a fair amount of tweaking the replacement to get it looking more like original. Nobody is making really nice replacement panels that are not in need of finesse. I'll detail that later. Key on getting it tight for butt welding is careful measurement and marking with a scribe.

I use a 4" cut off wheel from St Louis Pneumatic. Here is a tip, get a really nice USA made tool from Home Depot using mail order. Its seriously powerful, doesn't bog down like others. I'm also using a thin disc, like .045 inch thick.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/St-Louis...2032/205697781

For MIG beginners, probably use the backing strip method instead of butt welding, so you don't blow through and make a mess. Here is a decent link showing how that is done:
http://www.autobodystore.com/door_rust.shtml

I'll grab some pics on measurement/preparing you should do BEFORE you cut the old stuff off ... tomorrow.

pre-measuring...
 

So there are a couple critical elements to getting that rocker to look good. You need to get it in the right spot so the gaps between it and the door are correct, and you want to be able to put the door back where it was. So the tricks I've learned over time, is to clearly mark where the door goes, and to measure out where the front edge of the rocker should be. I use a small square, using painters tape to identify where it sits on the hinge. Pics show some of the details. Also use some painters tape crossing the body to door lines in the back so when the door goes back on, its clear where it was.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...8112b6ed33.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...daaf7fac07.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...6920376c17.jpg

If you are drilling holes in the replacement to replicate the factory spot welds(plug weld) you want to use a weld threw coating.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3194153&rt=rud

Yes, and actually anytime you're are overlapping metal - helps to keep the corrosion between panels to a minimum. But you don't have to coat the whole seam with that, just about a dime/nickel size over the hole you plan to weld. The rest you can use normal paint. Typically I'll paint the piece, then use my die grinder with a metal polish pad to wipe off paint around the hole - like I said, not that much bare metal. Then I just hit those spots with the weld through primer. The weld through won't catch fire and melt off like paint will, it stays put and is supposed to actually help you weld... although I can't say my weld has ever gotten better than clean metal.

'There are alot of brands of weld through primer out there, not all of them good. In fact I have a can of transtar right now, that I'm not especially happy with. I was in need quickly, and had to settle for what was available locally. I swear the transtart doesn't conduct that well when welding. Not cheap stuff, so you want to use that sparingly where its of good use.

When done, and its just an overlap under the car like mine, you can coat the seam with seam sealer. It says flexible and will lock out moisture - and is paint-able.
https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-...3241102&rt=rud

all welded...
 

Took a few hours to get the rocker ready to weld. Mostly it was bending the repair panel to match up properly. Mainly it was the same problems as the left side, only the front of the right side didn't require me to cut slots to make it smaller. They were both bowed in the bottom, which got the board and floor jack to get it in line. Tomorrow I'll work on getting the welds ground down and applying some body filler to smooth it out. Maybe primer by end of day?

Pics for your amusement

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...d8b70e96b8.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...3a90a272a3.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...95a6c728a1.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...5409516068.jpg

I wanted to see what I did with the other side, realized I posted alot of pics.... see this thread for the left side:
https://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen...-feedback.html

Got the welds dressed and filler applied, like 3 times. Amazing how much I forget about doing filler and have to relearn.... oh well. Not sure why my 3M seam sealer is purple, seems to work just fine though. Its a pretty old can. Here's some pics...

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...80d7d62420.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...521f57c57d.jpg

Did someone say Purple!?!?!?:icon_wub: Honestly looks really good! So far you are doing it like I would have done it. You going to use an etching primer, followed by high build primer?

I normally use epoxy, and should not need surfacer - its pretty smooth and flat. Took a while to get the filler to go my way, but I have it ready to prime... will have to wait for the weekend to get back to it. Unfortunate to be that close and have to let it sit for days... :-/

Never used epoxy filler, what brand do you use?

Epoxy primer, PPG DP, or equivalent - not sure which brand I have left in the cabinet. I'm using polyester filler, evercoat brand. Haven't touched it all week, try to hit it this weekend.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...bb2b6532fc.jpg
As usual, I found a few imperfections that needed more poly.... got that done, and hit it with really old DP40 (gotta buy some new stuff and just throw that stuff out). It went on a little rough, so put more on thinking I'll just wet sand it smooth and go to color. This is going to get the same single stage urethane the other side did, and I'll blend it in right at the first body crease in the rear. Front won't matter, door and fender cover it.
If the weather holds out, I should have it white tomorrow.

What's your process out of curiosity? I do butt weld grind it flat, sealer, etching primer, high build primer sand smooth then base coat clear coat

For this rocker type job... similar, but grind the weld only with a cheap Harbor Freight doubled up cut off wheel, then roloc the weld area with a rough polish disc. Hand sand whole area with a 120 grit on a block, then poly filler over the imperfections. I can put the filler exactly where its needed, so I'm not sanding everything as I would have to with surfacer. Epoxy primer to seal the metal and filler, and to give it consistent base so my topcoat covers well. Then usually PPG Omni MTK or Shop Line single stage urethane, 3 coats because I'll want to color sand. Single stage because I'm outside, and less coats means less trash/bugs.

This process uses less products, I'm spraying less product so the overall time is faster, so its cheaper in the end. I usually do end up color sanding the single stage and you really cannot tell its not clear. And since that old can of epoxy went on with orange peel, I'll use some dish soap water and 320 to flatten it before spraying the topcoat.

I didn't color sand the rocker on the other side, it looked good enough to me. But the doors I painted got 1500 DA sanded.

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...06e71a1ab9.jpg
example of color sanding single stage urethane...

Not bad at all. A little tip I learned when I sorted outside was hose down the ground. All the dust an everything will stick to the wet ground. Not bad on the process either! Keep up the good work

Hosing down the ground works well in the spray booth too. I wet 320 sanded (with dish soap water), followed with wax and grease remover. Its white now, I don't think I got any bugs struck in the finish - which is pretty strange, I always have bugs. I have to pull the tape in a few minutes, and get my gun cleaned out. Used a pretty old Sharpe Platinum 1.3 gun with 50 psi inlet - which supposedly results in 10 at the aircap. I have three of those guns, with different configs (1.3, 1.5, 1.7). There was some over spray in the air, but the paint atomized and flowed out very well. Hard to see orange peel right now, I'll give it a few hours and see what I have. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...5135a98069.jpg

I have a professional paint gun (I paid $450 for)but bought 12 harbor freight guns and they work just as well so that is what I'll be using. I use one just for clear, 2 for just primer, and 9 with different tips for paint. I honestly can't tell the difference and they came in a set (one big one small) for $22 on sale without a coupon (so I actually have 24 guns). The small ones I use for touching stuff up. I had a few bugs get caught in my base coat a few times before I got a booth. It looks really good! I only like clear because it protects the paint. Just ask the gas stains on the side of my bed :b

I pulled the tape, looks good. The blend on the back of the cab is really, really good. I folded the tape back onto itself (1/3rd) and used that to soften the line and used the first crease to hide the transition. I'll take a pic and put it up later.

24 guns?! You're out of control :-) I have 3 others, my first HVLP SATA knockoff, a Sharpe T1 Titanium, and my old binks knock off conventional gun. So I've only got 6 guns in my paint gun drawer - and NOW I have an example to prove that I'm not out of control ! :-)

When you are doing a two tone paint job on a whole car it's nice just to pick up the gun and shoot and not clean it out right away. I do a little air brushing to. You are sounding like my girlfriend :b saying I'm out of control. I just tell her they are one time use guns ;) shhh don't tell her :b

Well, you only use them one at a time.... Right? :D

True :D

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...d55bd558b8.jpg
I didn't do anything but pull the tape off... I can't even see the transition, and I'm right up on top of it....The fold over tape trick worked out pretty good.

That came out rather nice. Want to do mine next? :D

Just curious what do the lower door sections look like? Just now realized your Id is fj5gtx, For the non mopar literate FJ5 is a paint code (Plymouth Lime light) and GTX is a upscale Belvedere. Any pics of it?

For the kind of job I'm doing, its not cost feasible to pay the labor for what these trucks are worth. Plus I'm about done doing this kind of work outside in the weather.... time to find a shop! But the rainbow in the picture is pretty cool, didn't know it was there.

I just put a replacement southern rust free door on it that I cleaned and painted last year. I spent most of my afternoon swapping the parts from the old door into the new door. That paper towel in the lower corner is catching the fluid film dripping out of the door, thinking I'll avoid anything on the paint until it rains (morning)... I used a FF spray can, tends to be more fluid than the gallon can. Still have to put the speaker and plastic liner in, and the door panel.... but I'm done for the weekend, and the day job is going to take all my focus for a few days this week.

Bingo...yes, its a lime light GTX. I lost alot of my pictures in the move. I don't have any of it in hand right now. Currently its tucked away on a rotisserie waiting for attention.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...873f2a92e0.jpg

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...cc37710ef0.jpg
After the replacement door and replacement fender... done. On to other projects...

That turned out really nice.....

I like it. Typically I test fit everything and get it all aligned perfectly - then tear it down again and paint. This time I just bought stuff from all over the place and painted it, then installed all the stuff. So the panel gaps aren't perfect, but good enough for a work truck. The rust is gone! And the wasps aren't building nests in the holes in the fender anymore :-)

Before pic...

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/dodgefo...b5a0f1f2bf.jpg

I have that problem too...... It's annoying. Of course, my dog LOVES eating wasps..... (for some reason....) she will sit next to the truck and eat them as they go by. You can see that she frequently gets stung, but, that does NOT deter her. She just goes after the next one......

They MUST be tasty, but I'm not trying them...

Yeah, me neither. :) She can have ALL of them. :D

Looks like you did a good job with your truck!

No wasps, but my cat will occasionally kill a bee and eat part of it...

I know it's old but did you use seam sealer on both the top and bottom or just one? I did just the bottom pinch seam but it's rusting again.

I seam seal the floor to rocker, on the inside. Talking about the area where the door gasket slips over. I also spray inside the rocker with fluid film after it is painted. Have pictures of your job?

Nope lol did it months ago in under two days. I am thinking maybe the sealer didn't work after I welded near it. I'm not sure

There is NO EXCUSE for NO PICTURES !!! 8-( Boooooo